ECGS Bushing Install - Problems and solutions

Thanks to users on here, I learned my 2013 had all the classic tell-tale signs of a bad needle bearing in the front left axle. I would have grinding/vibrations from about 20-40mph, but it would go away with 4WD engaged.

So I got the kit from ECGS and got going by following this video. This isn't a detailed guide but more of an account of the problems I had and how I solved them. I hope this post helps others in the future who had my problems.

Problem 1

• The damn ECGS removal tool broke! I had a hard time getting it back behind the needle bearing but I seemed to be doing everything right. Maybe I got a bad one. Who knows.

• This put me in a proper panic because I didn't know what to do next to get this thing out. Fortunately I found this post on here where u/YamaDirtrider said to rent the slide hammer tool from Advance Auto. The OP of that thread also had success with
  $53 8MILELAKE Blind Inner Bearing Puller, Hole Remover Extractor Set, 16pcs Blind Hole Collet Bearing Race and Seal Puller Extractor Kit, Slide Hammer Tool Set
  this puller tool from amazon. I ordered it on Amazon but with a 2 day wait for delivery, I went to Advance Auto and rented the Powerbuilt Tools Loaner Tool: Master Axle Puller Set (21 Piece). The single puller marked "bearing" didn't work but once I tried the 3pc Jaws attached to the Jaw Yoke with the Shoulder Bolts (screenshot below), the needle bearing finally came out! It was tough to get the 3 jaws to all pull at the same time as I think the bearing got misaligned from the ECGS tool so I would do a few slides on the hammer, slide the jaws to a new spot and do a couple more pulls, etc. It came out fine after 10 or so pulls and I couldn't feel/see any damage to the diff.

Problem 2

• The cotter pins in both castle nuts were seized. PB Blaster didn't do much in the 15 min I gave it to work so I found this video and followed the guys instructions. I snipped the cotter pins as close as possible and then ugga dugga'd the nut off, shearing the cotter pins. I didn't have a pin punch so I went to Harbor Freight and got . The 1/16 pin punch worked great to remove the cotter pin pieces. I didn't have extra cotter pins so I bought and now have enough for 20 lifetimes.

Problem 3

• The axle was tough to get out. I don't know why I fiddled around with flat heads and stuff like the guy in the video I linked above even thought it didn't work for him. If you have enough room, the slide hammer I linked above would have knocked it out fast but I didn't have that tool yet so I used this with a 2lb sledge. A few knocks, rotate the axle, a few more knocks, rotate, etc, and it came out.

Problem 4

• The old seal was crusty and would not come out until I used a Seal puller and even then the tool was bent. Tapping in the seal and bushing was tough until I pulled out my Stubby ball peen hammer. Love that thing. The seal didn't go on as perfectly as I would have liked (see pic below) but the stores were closed and I needed the truck in the morning. It may fail prematurely in the future but it's been 48 hours and about 100miles and there have been no leaks. Is this worse than I think?

Anyway, the truck now drives with no vibration/grinding so overall, it's a win. I hope none of you have the issues I had but if you do, I hope this post helps. Thank you to those who posted with their issues in the past which kept me going on this. I almost gave up a couple times.