drop in filter question

Does the KN drop in filter do any better than a stock drop in filter?

 

No.

Which filter are we talking about? But also, no. KN only feels faster because your wallet weighs less.

 

Cabin filter? Hell Yes!

 

I use the kn cabin filter.. its nice to just pull it out, shake it then spray it with the hose.. mine is the washable one. I have no issues

 

my truck came with the KN engine air filter. i don't hate it. i use the regular paper one when i'm cleaning/ re-oiling the KN. the paper one sounds louder.

 

No, K&N filters just let more particulate matter pass through. I've tried both the cabin and engine filters and chucked them in the trash. Back to paper oem.

I would like to find a better cabin filter with my allergies though.

 

I can't speak as to which one does better because i've been using K&N air filters in my vehicles for more than 20 years here in AZ. I've driven through dust storms many times over the years and never had an issue, they work fine for me.

 

The airbox is already so oversized for the intake flow there's pretty much no gain to be had with increased flow. And there's no way to increase flow without changing the size and not let more dust in. And its already a cold air intake so there's no benefit to those kits over it either.

 

The cabin filter is a delicate balance. I tried one of those antimicrobial filters and immediately thought my blower motor crapped out. The high setting was an asthmatic blowing through a coffee stirrer.

Meanwhile the cheap 10 dollar paper works great. Go figure.

 

Yep, higher the merv rating the lower the air flow and more strain on the system. I guess I'll stay with the factory filter and keep snorting Nasonex.

 

You'll also need a throttle body spacer and CAI to realize the full potential of the K&N...

 

The 3.5 engine in the 3ed gen uses the same air filter as the 5.7 V8 used in the Tundra.
Stick with stock.

 

I’ve read somewhere on here that the oils in the K&N can affect the MAF overtime.

Maybe someone can correct me if I’m off, but I’ve stuck with dry filters and just changed them in recommended intervals, haven’t had any issues.

 

Correct.

 

This is true especially when the filter is over-oiled...which is easy to do if you're not careful. The trick is to have just enough oil to capture dust, but not too much that could get sucked through. The OE paper filters work well in "modern" rigs.

I ran K&N filters on my 22R while traveling in Central America. When one got dirty, I'd swap it with my clean one. Then clean the dirty one and have it ready for the next change.

Cheers

 

Back the days of pushrod V8s and carburetors engines were huge in terms of displacement but still not very efficient. That's why you could see power gains by simply opening up airflow with better intake and exhaust systems.

Nowadays engines are much more efficient. Manufacturers spend millions on research to get the most power and mpgs out of a smaller displacement engine. They are under intense pressure to meet mileage and emission requirements.

If there was an easy way to gain 5-10 horsepower and a couple mpgs just by changing the air filter design don't you think they would already be doing it?

 

For cabin air filter, I buy the cheap ones with active carbon layer from Amz, I change them monthly. Engine air filters, I stock them deep with OEM filters during 25% sales, change them every other oil change.

Filters and fluid changes are just too cheap to skim on. Changing frequently with fresh cheap filters is better than hanging on the expensive ones for too long, specially in the summer humid environment, and for the folks in the dusty places.

 

I'm just gonna say that the Taco was a special case.

Starting off, I agree that the size of the airbox doesn't make an air filter mod worth it.

But, my story: A friend gave me a TRD air filter that he didn't like. Including the TRD cleaner and oil. I have had many K&Ns. By gawd, the TRD oil sucked. It was almost clear and pissed out of the spray bottle horribly. Without any dye, I could not tell how much was on there. But leaving it wick in over night like I normally do, showed Valdez levels of oil on my floor the next day. Again, I did the normal thing, daubed off the excess, and dropped it in.

Sometime later, I noticed fluid splashed in my right wheel well. I thought it was the rack or a CV. Nope! The filter oil was drizzling out the bottom of the box and came out the drain hole. I daubed it some more and ran it for many thousands of miles. It never stopped weeping. Haha!

Not a single problem with the MAF or the way the engine ran.

I did eventually swap back to a paper filter, cleaned up the TRD, and tossed some sensor cleaner on the MAF with again no change in operation. I just need to get around to buying some K&N oil.


I am not doubting that MAFs can be fouled, just my theory that the Taco might not be as susceptible as others? Or, I got lucky?

 

I generally agree with you except that the cabin filters fit so poorly on the Taco. They let by all of the dust. Haha! I went with the K&N there just for the sealing to the box.

Kinda funny that Toyota notes HEPA filtering, but everything gets by. The media might be up to the task, but the system ain't. Haha!

 

I just pulled my trd filter (engine) off to clean. I ate a lot of dust over this past year …filter was plenty dirty but box clean.