RCLT HD Anyone

Curious if anyone in Az is running this kit, as I've been thinking about it myself. I know it can get some hate with how it was marketed when it came out, and 3rd gen steering had to be sorted.

All that aside, if anyone in Az is running it I'd love to know your feedback and a few other questions. Did you go with the 2.75 or 3.5? What size tire, wheel and backspace are you running, and did you install your self or go with a local shop? Pics always welcomed

 

@Supr4Lo has it

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/supr4los-build-thread-and-shop-talk.801079/

 

I have the 2.75" kit with the RCV Axles and the extra steering rack brackets. Tires I went with a 37x12.5R17 Kenda Klever RT's on a 17x9 -12 offset beadlock (will probablygoing to 40's soon). Shocks are Locked Offroad.

I installed myself in my little 2 car garage last October. I am very happy with the setup so far. Offroad has performed fantastic and still can cruise down the highway at 80MPH.

If you have any specific questions let me know. Or if you want to see it in person maybe we can arrange a meetup (truck will be getting pulled apart starting in 2 weekends to 3 link the rear though).

 

Awesome thank you for the link!

Supr4Lo, great build! I see you are in surprise I'm also on the west side probably 15-20 mins from you If you need any help with the 3-link give a shout, happy to lend a hand. When you installed the RCLT and 37's, how much trimming did you end up doing on the inner fenders? Or did you just limit the up travel with bump stops knowing you were going to be going to 40's and wanted to save the till later?

Also curious how your RCV boots have been holding up. Reading on an FB RCLT group that seems to be everyone's biggest complaint. Although a proto type boot is being testing with good results, nothing to replace it just yet.

 

Nice, another west sider! I'm in the area grand Ave and Bell.

Yes, Currently I am limiting uptravel till I move to 40's. Even with 37's you would need to do some inner fender cutting to gain uptravel. An really that would include cutting off the stock bump stop mount and putting in a hydro bump of some sort. Which is what I plan to do.

I'm also in the RCLT FB group and see the Boot horror stories. So far I have not had an issue but I have less than 5,000 miles on the setup since it's not my daily. So time will tell.

 

Yep right down the street. Pretty much near Arrowhead mall here.

Not apposed to at all. Initially I might do what you did and just limit it via bumps, then maybe go with the JDFab inner fender replacements as time allows. Good to hear you aren't having the boot issue, some seem to not even last 1000 miles before having issues. Its what has me going back and forth between RCLT and JDFab's kit. I'm sure RCV will have a solution soon, I mean $2k axles and they can't get a boot to last isn't going to help them in the long run lol.

 

I'm looking into going with the RCLT kit. But I'm very new to this and wonder which track width is better. Technically 3.50 will result in more travel, right?

With regards to the parts list, I have this so far:


RCLT, Heavy Duty
Product Note: Current New Order Lead Time: 12-14 weeks
Application:
2016-2023 Tacoma

Length:
+3.50 (7.00-inch width increase)

Required Flat Rate Shipping (US Lower 48 States):
Standard Ground Shipping, $200

$6,199.00
Minus Quantity- RCLT, Heavy DutyProduct Note: Current New Order Lead Time: 12-14 weeks quantity Plus Quantity+
$6,199.00

200-series Land Cruiser Steering Rack for use with RCLT HD
$880.51
Minus Quantity- 200-series Land Cruiser Steering Rack for use with RCLT HD quantity Plus Quantity+
$880.51

RCV Ultimate IFS Set, +3.50"
$2,399.95
Minus Quantity- RCV Ultimate IFS Set, +3.50" quantity Plus Quantity+
$2,399.95


Is there anything I need to add such as limit straps etc?

 

The track width is a toss up. Yes, the 3.5 kit will give you a little more travel but I went with the 2.75 kit just because some of the trails are tight.

Kit comes with limit straps so that's covered.

The LC200 steering rack is Toyota part # 44200-60170 and can be bought for less if you shop around. I had mine shipped from a dealer for less than $650 during a sale.

Things I would consider adding:

Steering rack double shear mounts and center mount.
https://www.marlincrawler.com/product/double-shear-mount-for-marrack-steering-rack

https://www.marlincrawler.com/product/heavy-duty-center-mount-for-marrack-steering-rack

LCA brace kit
https://www.marlincrawler.com/product/lca-frame-brace-2016-2023-tacoma

Some kind of UCA reinforcement kit such as this
https://www.chaosfab.com/product/2016-2022-Toyota-Tacoma-Weld-on-Coil-Bucket-Tower-Gussets-59653

You'll also need some grease for the bushings. I used this

$33 Super Lube 92150 Silicone Lubricating Grease with PTFE, 14.1 oz Cartridge, Translucent White, Onе Paсk

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0081JE2PQ

 

I was told to just get the 3.50 track width because I'm already spending so much money on it. But on the other hand, I keep reading that the 2.75 is much more agile on road and in the rocks. Would you happen to know the typical track width of a Jeep on dana60s? They look super wide and when I wheel with some of these guys up in Big Bear they don't seem to have any issue. In fact, they can pick lines that keep the vehicle more stable due to the width. I'm a bit conflicted as to which one to go with but my gut tells me probably 2.75.

Regarding the rack, isn't the one offered by BigMike modified with different bushings and so on?

Thank you for the parts list. The items you listed are super important. I'm glad I asked haha.

 

I think the 2.75 vs.3.5 is use case dependant. Can't loose with either. I can't recall the track width of a 1 ton swapped jeep (or Tacoma) but also have to factor in wheel offset for the total width.

I went 2.75 to keep it narrow knowing at some point portals will be added.

The rack offered by Marlin is just a stock factory LC200 rack (and says it in the disclaimer on the product page). The bushings come in the kit and you put them in.

 

Food for thought on width....
I have a total chaos 3.5 race kit not marlin, but 3.5" is 3.5"

I dont think most people truly grasp how little an inch of width per side really is. With any 3.5 kit, asuming you dont have some wild offset wheels, the outer sidewall of your tires will still be multiple inches narrower than your side view mirrors.

I'm on the east coast with all the narrow trails you could ask for. Not once have i thought to myself a 2" narrower WMS and a bit less travel would have been beneficial.

 

Suppose you go with a 2.75" setup. We have an extra set of 2.75 RCV Axles from a misorder. I can make a deal on them.

 

That is why my fabricator told me to get the 3.5". But every crawler I've talked to says 2.75". It isn't even a full inch of difference. A lot of Jeeps I encounter in the mountains are sooooo wide. And they have no issues. Do you have pics of your build?

That is good to know. I'll get rack from Toyota then. Thank you for letting me know!

Portals are a major step man. I'm a little wary of the higher center of gravity with portals. And for the amount of money you spend you can do a straight axel swap with an Ori 4link kit front and rear and get like 4-5feet of flex. I'm gonna wheel with someone on Saturday who has portals on his Bronco. Maybe I'll change my mind after I see them in action.

 

I'll PM you.

 

I dont have any head on photos on flat ground at ride height. This is full drop. Plemty more photos in the build thread. Start on page 256 if you want to see the major rebuild from the last year or so. https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...hread-now-with-4-link-and-long-travel.163804/

 

Well, that looks like a beast of a truck!

I've asked a couple people on insta and so far what I understand is most of them picked the 2.75" because they didn't want to run super wide spacers in the rear to match the front. I can see that. And depending on the wheel specs it might end up being pretty wide. I have 8.5 0 offset bead locks. Even with a 3.50 track width I would be narrower than some folks with the 2.75 and a 9 -38 off set wheel. I think it's a balancing act. If I get the 3.50 and want to run really aggressive offset in the future I might end up too wide. I haven't made up my mind yet. I need to mull this over for a bit longer before I drop $10k on the kit.

 

Another good point. With the 2.75 kit I'm running a 2" spacer in the rear.

As for wheel offset you may need spacer in the front to run a 0 offset wheel. 4.5" is the minimum backspace to clear the spindle upright. This is on RCLT product page.


I run a 17x9 -12 offset beadlocks with a 12.5" wide tire and it's very close to the spindle.

 

I'm so glad we're talking about this because a 8.5 wide rim with 0 offset translates to a backspacing of 4.75. That means if I choose to go with the 3.50 kit I will need a 1 inch spacer. I'm already running 1.25" so might as well leave them on in which case the 3.50 kit would be SUPER wide.

Would you happen the know the difference between the full capacity installation of the RCLT vs the limited installation? There is a thread somewhere on this forum where BigMike dropped travel numbers of each installation but I could not find any explanation was to what the difference is.

 

If you keep your 0 offset wheels you could install a 1/4" spacer in the front. Which effectively would put you at a 4.5" backspace. If going that route it'd be smart to also install longer wheel studs. This would be true for either kit.

My understanding is the limited install is using the stock CVs but changing the axle between them for a longer one. The stock CV are not able to achieve the higher working angles of the RCV Axles so you'd have to limit travel so not to bind the stock CV joints. If that makes sense.

The if using the stock CVs with the replacement longer axle shaft it is only available for the 3.5 kit per the RCLT product page.

 

That makes a lot of sense. I wouldn't want to use stock CVs. I'm still leaning more toward the 3.50", though. BigMike's truck has the 3.50 and due to his wheel offset it looks about the same as some other 2.75" builds. But he gets about 20" of flex in the front which is INSANE for IFS. Even for a SA build, 20" requires some fabrication work beyond just installing longer shocks and lift springs.