Rebuilt my 3rz!!! SHES A RUNNER

amazing stuff when it comes to belts...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/356812796820?var=0&gclid=8f4586a509ac13a81392ee976c1cec38

 

Sorry to derail this thread but was curious on how you 3RZ guys are re-installing a rebuilt motor within the limited space of the frame crossmember, the front diff and the low hanging oil pan? Are you assembling the tranny and the motor and installing as a unit? What's the best method? Thanks!!

 

You can wait for the OP to respond, but ill put my 2 cents in..
As a ford engine tech, never had to do anything special cuz its a 4x4...
Generally when you pull any truck engine, you place a floor jack on the trans bell housing & put the engine cherry picker in place...
You slowly go up with the floor jack positioned on the trans until the top of the trans is crammed into the firewall hump & cant go up anymore...
or lift engine some, lift trans, lift engine, lift trans, lift trans till trans has no more room to go up & is pressed up against the cab...
That gives you plenty of room to clear any tight tolerances.
Pretty much general knowledge / procedure when pulling any engine.
Its a fine line / balancing act, especially if its your first pull & stab, but not rocket science...

 

Thanks!! Definitely not my first pull/stab but the last engine I did was 10 years ago so just making sure it's general pull/re-install procedure and not something special that I was missing. Appreciate it!

 

Yup, just like that....
Atleast I think thats the easiest route in this situation vs pulling trans & engine together, that alot of balancing act & AWKWARD....
Just make sure trans is cranked to the moon..
Then when you mate the 2 together, lower them slowly together to keep them somewhat aligned...

 

it was definitely a pain in the ass. What I did was get a floor jack and jack up the tranny and then wiggle the engine in. The oil pan does hit the cross member but it’s doable. I did it twice on accident when I realized I put the clutch disc in backwards and had to pull the engine back out and fix it. So it’s doable. Just gotta finesse it in.

 

https://share.icloud.com/photos/04faFOms7vy9DM6Zx4xka50PA

you can hear it on here. It’s more like something vibrating. I pulled over right after I took this and tried to find it. I can’t tell where it’s coming from inside the cab. Sounds like right behind the firewall somewhere. Let me know if you can hear it.

 

I definitely heard it. I got a similar sound when I made some exhaust system modifications and the exhaust would rattle while hitting a crossmember when the engine moved under load. Might be worth crawling under and looking for that, heat shields that might be loose, bent, etc. or those double dust shields on the bottom of the motor between the block and the flywheel and ensure nothing was bent or moved on install.

 

Yeah, I can hear it around 16.00 and it’s not internal for sure I agree with @DesertRatliff check all the items he has suggested and see what you come up with. Maybe @slater will chime in with his thoughts.

 

as stated, thats a huge metal to metal rattle, shouldn't be to hard to isolate...
def not a belt noise of u joint...
is there a tin backing plate where the rear of the engine meets the trans?
If it does, sometimes just tweaking its a bit resolves it.
loose exhaust hanger?
Exhaust not positioned correctly & hitting frame or something else?
Exh hanger rod not positioned into hanger?
Underbody heat shield got tweaked & out of position hitting something?
cat converter heat shield?
maybe trans crossmember or trans mount related?
May be just phone position but im guessing def under the truck, rear of engine to trans area...

In this situation, a soft rubber mallet with the engine off is your friend,
Just start hitting stuff & you should be able to isolate...

Hopefully not clutch doing something stupid, but I have no reason to think so at this point.

 

Keep listening to it over & over, thats a good one....
Im sure not funny being in your situation, all the work you put in...
Hopefully something simple...

Sucks as I have no idea what it looks like down there....

 

okay I’ll check that! Thanks!

 

Hopefully everything is neutralized correctly,
motor mounts are centered correctly where the perches actually sit on the mount & same for trans mount.
Exhaust system not bound-up & mis-aligned...

Sometimes when the power plant & exhaust system is bound up & not neutralized, you can get severe vibrations at certain rpm ranges & that vibration can cause all sorts of noises & cause things to rattle even of theyre secure & positioned correctly.
Just saying this, if you dont find anything obvious with the mallet, & inspecting the flywheel tin inspection plate if it has one, etc...

 

I think I found it. I had to add the o2 extension for the cat delete and the heat shield was vibrating on that. I bent it a little and so far no vibration!

 

Sweet.....

 

Oh yeah haven’t filled up since May 27th. I filled up 15 gallons and got 302 miles on that 15 gallons!