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Replaced PCV valve at 150K miles

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by bananaboat, Jun 8, 2025.

  1. Jun 8, 2025 at 9:31 PM
    #1
    bananaboat

    bananaboat [OP] Well-Known Member

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    When I got it out, I couldn't tell the difference between the old one and the new one. Looked the same, sounded the same when I shook them. The 5" rubber hose attached to it looked like it was 20 years old and holding up well, but I replaced the hose anyway.

    Lesson: don't assume your PCV valve needs to be replaced because it's old.
     
    Mully, hinmo24t, TomTwo and 3 others like this.
  2. Jun 8, 2025 at 9:47 PM
    #2
    Bishop84

    Bishop84 Well-Known Member

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    Yea I've only needed to change a few, it takes a lot of sludge or frost for them to stick and cause issues. The V6's of that era have so little blow by issues that its rarely an issue as well.

    I usually spray a cleaner or penetrating fluid in them when I have them out and give them a good blast of air.

    There's worse ways to spend money. It used to be a very routine maintenance item.
     
  3. Jun 8, 2025 at 10:01 PM
    #3
    Canadian Caber

    Canadian Caber R.I.P Layne Staley 67-2002

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    How have you found the 3rd gens PCV valves? I was thinking of including it with spark plug change at 100k kms.
     
  4. Jun 9, 2025 at 6:17 AM
    #4
    IL Capo

    IL Capo Well-Known Member

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    All good information - Go Team Tacoma! I replace and or clean mine yearly .....as a sidenote, I also have a catch can and you would be surprised on how much oil and moisture is captured. I clean mine as well.....ultrasonic bath in a cleaner and was able to replace reuse the PCV ($20.00 Canadian)
    Thank everyone for all that you do.....this form helps everyone!
     
    TOMB and bananaboat[OP] like this.
  5. Jun 9, 2025 at 8:41 AM
    #5
    JR_Roams

    JR_Roams Well-Known Member

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    I'm about to replace mine on the first gen, it's a different story because it uses a rubber grommet into the valve cover that deteriorates. Figured I'd just replace everything first then just put in a new $5 grommet every 50k or so.
     
    bananaboat[OP] likes this.
  6. Jun 9, 2025 at 8:45 AM
    #6
    IL Capo

    IL Capo Well-Known Member

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    Yup....had a first Gen 1996 Tacoma with 378K before I sold it.....and I would do much the same......well done!
     
  7. Jun 9, 2025 at 5:42 PM
    #7
    Hay Lobos

    Hay Lobos Let's be friends.

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    I'm about to change mine this week as part of completing the 65K service. I'm the second owner and I'm just wiping the slate clean maintenance wise. Toyota thinks you should change it, it's cheap, and by the time you've taken it off to inspect it, you might as well replace it, I guess.

    I'll take a gander at it before I throw it away and see what kind of shape it's in.

    Gonna do the MAF sensor cleaning and clean the intake while I have the cover off, so no matter what I won't be able to tell the difference from a new PCV valve, not that I expect I would.
     
    bananaboat[OP] likes this.
  8. Jun 9, 2025 at 6:37 PM
    #8
    koco

    koco Well-Known Member

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    Around $26,000 worth of unleaded in the fuel tank.
    I have seen info from reliable sources that states PCV valves can't be cleaned and should only be replaced even if they still rattle freely.
    I have also cleaned metal PCV valves by soaking them in oven cleaner. A lot of black crud came out. It was a cheap fix for a cheap car.
    It is best to spend the extra $10 and use the OEM unit to reduce the chance of issues.
     
    bananaboat[OP] likes this.
  9. Jun 10, 2025 at 6:54 AM
    #9
    EdgemanVA

    EdgemanVA Well-Known Member

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    I changed mine around 90K miles, and found the old one to be fully functional but the hose looked far past its service life. I ordered a replacement hose and changed it too.
     
    burlyb likes this.
  10. Jun 10, 2025 at 9:00 AM
    #10
    HandOfGod

    HandOfGod Well-Known Member

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    Same scenario with mine except I ordered the wrong hose so waiting to replace mine when the correct one comes in.
     
    EdgemanVA[QUOTED] likes this.
  11. Jun 10, 2025 at 9:33 AM
    #11
    EdgemanVA

    EdgemanVA Well-Known Member

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    Since I wanted to change it ASAP, I went to a local dealer's parts counter, and had them bring up the picture to ensure I was ordering the right one.
     
  12. Jun 10, 2025 at 12:36 PM
    #12
    slater

    slater Well-Known Member

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    Its a one way check valve...
    Just cuz it passes the shake test & looks good, doesnt mean it is...
    True test is to suck & blow on it & make sure the check valve works....
    your able to suck & when you blow the check valve stops air from going through...

    Theres no test equipment for this....:D
     
  13. Jun 10, 2025 at 7:49 PM
    #13
    bananaboat

    bananaboat [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I went to a parts store and bough a foot of 3/8" ID fuel hose and cut a piece off to replace the PCV hose. Mine is a 4-cyl BTW.
     
  14. Jun 11, 2025 at 12:42 AM
    #14
    tacokarl

    tacokarl Big Blue

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    I replaced my valve a few thousand miles ago. It seemed fine after cleaning when I tested it by blowing through, but just to be sure, I attached a water balloon to the end, inflated it, and sure enough, it was very slowly leaking air.
     
  15. Jun 11, 2025 at 7:10 AM
    #15
    IL Capo

    IL Capo Well-Known Member

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    Yes, a PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) valve can be cleaned. Cleaning can often resolve issues caused by a dirty valve, but if it's severely damaged, replacement is necessary.
    Here's how to clean a PCV valve:
    1. Remove the PCV valve: Carefully detach the valve from its location, usually the valve cover.
    2. Soak in cleaner: Submerge the valve in carburetor cleaner or a similar solvent.
    3. Let it soak: Allow the cleaner to soak into the valve for a few minutes to help dissolve deposits.
    4. Clean and shake: Gently shake the valve to help dislodge any residue. You may hear a small ball or plunger rattling inside, indicating it's working.
    5. Dry the valve: Ensure the valve is completely dry before reinstallation.
    6. Reinstall: Mount the valve back into its original location.
    Important Considerations:
    • Avoid acetone:
      When cleaning a plastic PCV valve, be cautious of solvents containing acetone, as they can damage the plastic.
    • Rehydrate plastic:
      After cleaning, you may consider applying a white silicone spray lubricant to the plastic and rubber parts to rehydrate them.
    • Test for air flow:
      After cleaning, it's recommended to test the valve for air flow to ensure it's working properly.
    • Replace if necessary:
      If cleaning doesn't restore the valve's functionality or if it's visibly damaged, consider replacing it.
     
    TOMB and henryp like this.
  16. Jun 11, 2025 at 7:42 AM
    #16
    b_r_o

    b_r_o Gnar doggy

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    For what it's worth I've never fixed a driveability problem with a new PCV valve.

    Or a fuel filter :D
     
  17. Jun 11, 2025 at 8:19 AM
    #17
    steveo27

    steveo27 Ask me about my weiner

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    The same shit everyone else has.
    It’s cheap enough to make replacing it a non factor
     
    slater likes this.
  18. Jun 11, 2025 at 3:33 PM
    #18
    TheDevilYouLove

    TheDevilYouLove You can’t polish a turd, but you can polish a TRD

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    Thanks for the reminder. It’s been about 100k since last changed it, so I guess it’s time to replace it again. I have 230k on my truck, still runs like a clock.
     
  19. Jun 11, 2025 at 10:26 PM
    #19
    Owenhall

    Owenhall Well-Known Member

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    I changed mine at 191k don’t know if the previous owner did or not. Looked good to me its pretty cheap part so why not.
     

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