Any woodworkers?

i think i'd prefer the "standard" 2 miter slots, but i also would not call it a deal-breaker depending on cost and what you're looking to spend. depending on the type of miter slot, i've got these and they are pretty nice --

$15 POWERTEC Crosscut Sled Miter Bar for Table Saw Sled, 3/4" x 3/8" x 18" with Predrilled Holes & Screws for Router Table, Bandsaw, Taper Jig, Table Saw Accessories for Woodworking, 1PK (71518)

POWERTEC Crosscut Sled Miter Bar for Table Saw Sled, 3/4" x 3/8" x 18" with Predrilled Holes & Screws for Router Table, Bandsaw, Taper Jig, Table Saw Accessories for Woodworking, 1PK (71518) - Amazon.com

 

I was shocked lately to see the prices of table saws. I think the Grizzly that I use is almost twice as much as I paid about 8 years ago.

I have never really thought about the miter slots. My saw has two. I typically only use one sled and that is a Rockler Cross Cut sled that only uses the left slot. The right side, does not move, is optional and not really necessary. This sled uses metal runners.

My old homemade sled that I scraped a couple of years ago used hardwood runners that I cut out.



I do however use a regular miter gauge with an mdf fence in the right slot.

I almost forgot since I do not use it very often, my tapering jig uses the right slot. I also have a cove cutting jig, that I have never actually used, that uses both slots.

I guess that all of this is to say, one is fine, but two would be more versatile.

I am currently on vacation in South Lake Tahoe and won’t be using my saw for a few more days.

 

Interesting. I was reading about the miter jigs supplied with the saws being flimsy (reviews, at least). I guess if the slots are "standard size" (some say Craftsman does not use standard-width slots) Rockler who has a store intown can provide something more stable.

 

All of the stuff that came with my Dewalt I wouldn't even qualify as entry or beginner level stuff. It was flimsy and wouldn't stay locked in position when I tried to set an angle for a miter cut. I also think it is a little small to try and run any kind of a jig on without building it into a larger table. Just my opinion, which with a couple of dollars, will get me a cup of coffee somewhere...

 

All experience and opinions welcome. Years ago I always acted, then considered the outcome. Now, though I do have more money than time, I want to use my resources wisely.

 

i'm thinking older craftsmans may have had a t-slot, but i could be wrong. but, alot of the miter bars can "typically" make up for a decent amount of slop, if the bar fits decently. and yep, alot of the saws don't come with the best of hardware, sadly.

 

You square the blade to the miter slot. That’s why I asked. The blade is squared to the miter slot, then do you “need” two runners?

As to the material

$20 Fulton Woodworking Tools 17” NoPlay Aluminum Miter Bar With Expandable Glides | Standard 3/4” x 3/8” Miter Slot Table Saw Runner | Crosscut Sled | Miter Bar For Table Saw, Router Table, Band Saw

this is also an option. Some guys like use plywood but you answered the questions as to future wear. This is aluminum to aluminum and has adjustments to take out slop on the miter slot your blade is squared to.

 

Good point. Though I have no experience with, it seems sleds are better used for larger pieces and larger table saws due to size of material handled.

The miter-slot runners make much sense ... takes out the slop and I probably should have more-professional grade "squaring tools" for even my hand tools like circular saw and jigsaw (though jigsaws are inherently iffy because the blade has no support against bending).

Gawd ... the wasted product from stupid blunders ...

 

I’ve made sleds to just to be part of the club. They’ve never been a need for me. I have some pretty damn accurate miter saws and don’t really need a crosscut sled for anything.

If you just want to use a table saw for all things then a sled is useful. It can be useful for cuts that are so close to your fingers you wouldn’t do it on a miter saw, since you can add in T track and clamps on to your sled.

As far as the table saw size, it’s worked out fine on my dewalt 10 inch. Admittedly I think that Dewalt has one of the larger table surfaces in class with the ability to extend the sides for full sheet cuts on job sites. Something I don’t personally worry about either way.

As far as measuring square on the blade I use

$65 iGaging 35-0928 Digital Table Saw Gauge

this.

 

This thread is as bad as others for .

I am currently thinking rip cuts as much as if not slightly more than crosscut. At least for my next "precision" test of end-grain cutting boards ... something that is almost too complicated just to prove I can. Rip cuts have been my bane because I just cannot get a decent setup for my circular saw to stay exactly on-line for long.

Well, I am thinking more than cutting right now, which seems a good thing.

 

how 'bout a tracksaw then . . . to add to the $$$.

 

Gee ... thank you soooooooo much for the advice ... I think ....

 

Thanks
You just reminded me that I need to get a new 2nd track. I messed mine up a while ago. I think the Makita and Wen versions work with my Festool TS60.

Track saws are super convenient. I bought one just because everyone on YouTube had one, and now use it all the time.

 

I got my first tracksaw because I was ripping lumber (table top) that was so wide and heavy I couldn’t safely run it through the table saw for a square up after jointing.

 

Its only money...

 

You pay for it, I will tell you how well it works.

 

Ok...here goes...
I'm not much of a woodworker. But when I do it usually small stuff..
This is a 1986-87 Martin Warthog Magnum.
The blond maple laminated riser has 30+ laminates and Babinga veneers. In my eyes the maple clashed with the dark core and black glass limbs.
So....I decided to make a new riser to better match the limbs.
The new riser consists of 25 Mahogany/Birch/Mahogany 1/16" ply laminstions with 1.5 oz fibergalss cloth between each lam. Capped with cheeks of 20+ year old Walnut, harvested from my backyard after a microburst felled it.
It took 3 weeks to lay up the block. 95% of the carving was done on either a belt or drum sander. The sight window was milled out.
It took a week to hand sand it to 400. Then 3 coats of Satin Spar Urathane.
You really have to view it in the sun to appreciate the depth and grain shift of the Mahogany.

I have not shot it yet due to recovering from an injury, and it's killing me not to.

I have shown it to a few guys I shoot with and they drooled over it.