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Questionaire for the all-knowing TW members

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by wdunnlee, Jun 19, 2025 at 12:13 PM.

  1. Jun 19, 2025 at 12:13 PM
    #1
    wdunnlee

    wdunnlee [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Will
    Tidewater VA
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    Parked the truck in the garage last night to do some work. Along the way I know I am going to have some questions as this is the first big set of projects I have taken on. I have another car I will be driving while I work.
    My first steps are rebooting the CV axles, adding the ECGS bushing and new wheel bearings.
    I was going to drain the front differential but both the fill plug and drain plug are stripped. I ordered the Lexus drain bolt and OEM fill plug.
    IMG_2644.jpg IMG_2645.jpg
    so question 1:
    How would y’all go about getting these out? I don’t know how to weld sadly. I would try to cut a groove and use a hammer and chisel to turn them. Keep in mind the car is on jack stands.
    And question 2:
    Obviously the front differential is leaking from the driver side. I have a new Diff seal but is there another seal that goes on the CV axle?
    IMG_2646.jpg
    Question 3:
    Are there any other seals I need?
     
  2. Jun 19, 2025 at 12:38 PM
    #2
    wdunnlee

    wdunnlee [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Good news, I can still get traction on both the drain and fill plug, not quite circled yet. What if I cleaned and degreased them then stuck JB weld in them and let the hex sit overnight and harden. The only problem would then be I have to buy 2 more 10 MM hex sockets.
    Edit: perhaps not as I could use a 10mm and a 3/8 hex. Both get traction.
     
  3. Jun 19, 2025 at 12:56 PM
    #3
    GreaseForPeace

    GreaseForPeace Active Member

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    1) Buy a hex with a 3/8ths (maybe go one size up, even standard?), knock it in with a hammer, gently, to get it all the way seated in the plug, and then use a 3/8ths ratchet to loosen it. You can also apply some heat using a plumbers torch to the case area around the plug before trying to loosen it, you want to heat the case not the plug. If you heat the plug it will get tighter.

    2) Seals are specific to the location, you need the seal for the CV shaft. I believe its 90311-47027

    3) If you already have both CV axles off the truck, go ahead and do the seals on both sides of the diff, and any others related to what you are replacing/opening up. Get your seals from a toyota retailer, after market seals don't last as long, generally.
     
  4. Jun 19, 2025 at 1:24 PM
    #4
    Brandon###

    Brandon### Well-Known Member

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    A sharp chisel and a small sledge hammer made quick work of them for me.

    I also used a heat gun for a couple minutes before I started hitting it.
     
  5. Jun 19, 2025 at 1:48 PM
    #5
    ieizxxnsaeomeostfd

    ieizxxnsaeomeostfd Well-Known Member

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    ARB Bumper Warn winch Icon lift 35s
    RE Front Diff plugs:

    Same thing happened to me the first time I changed the fluid. Truck had ~60,000 mi on it at the time (bought it used). Super common issue, seems like the factory put them on too tight.

    I ended up putting a big cut in it with a dremel w/ a cut off wheel - turned it into a big flat head screw essentially. Then took a chisel and hammer and beat it loose. It was a pain.

    Make sure to get new plugs before you remove them and don't over-tighten them when you put them back in or you'll have the same issue next time.
     
    wdunnlee[OP] likes this.
  6. Jun 19, 2025 at 2:16 PM
    #6
    wdunnlee

    wdunnlee [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I’m worried the monthes of oil residue will turn it into a fireball the moment I hit it with a torch.
     
  7. Jun 19, 2025 at 3:11 PM
    #7
    ieizxxnsaeomeostfd

    ieizxxnsaeomeostfd Well-Known Member

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    ARB Bumper Warn winch Icon lift 35s
    Clean it off with some brake cleaner.

    I'd try it without heat first though. Once I got a good angle on it with a hammer and a chisel it started spinning in the right direction pretty easily from what I remember.
     
    wdunnlee[QUOTED][OP] likes this.

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