3RZ Valve Adjustment, new bad ticking, 0.00 Clearance

Hey guys, 98 Taco manual 4x4 3RZ-FE.

I had the head rebuilt about 15K miles ago in July 2023. The guy must have been drunk when he adusted the valves.. they are all over the place. 11 of the 16 valve clearances are out of spec.

I checked because last week my engine starting ticking, it's getting worse and quit loud. Friends said it was lifters. Two of the lifters were out of spec being too loose by 0.002in.... maybe that's the ticking noise? but my BIG concern is...

The Rear exhaust valve of cylinder 3 has 0.00 clearance.... it's literally in constant contact with the bucket at all times. It's got a #9 shim now, I can replace it with a #3 or #2 shim... but I'm wondering if there could be something else wrong with it, something that causing the spring to push too high? ------- I'm just worried that If I buy and install a smaller shim that it's possible the bucket will then just push up farther, eliminating the newly acquired clearance from the smaller shim, and still end up staying in contact with the cam lobe.

Has anyone else had this problem? The noise only started a week or so ago, getting worse, and it doesn't seem normal to have a 0.00 clearance on a newly rebuilt head with only 15K on it. Any help would be appreciated.

 

First off, stop driving it, you risk burning an exhaust valve. Last time I checked shims were pretty cheap, The problem is you dont know what shim(s) you need until you take it out and measure it. If you get to the point where you are at the thinnest shim and still cant get the clearance I would have a talk with the machine shop as they didnt check the installed height.

You could buy a shim that is in the middle of the avalible thicknesses and put it in, check clearances and adjust from there.

 

So I'm not expert on the 3rz, but I did do a full valve adjustment on my 5vz a couple years back, and my understanding of your situation is that switching that shim out and double checking the valve lash afterwards is really the best thing you can do at this point to determine if something else is at play, or if the guy who did the head rebuild just screwed up that one by not putting the appropriate shim in at the time

 

OK... yes, obviously I'm not driving it. I stuck an articulating boroscope down into the cylinders and check the valves. They are all good, nothing burned and seated properly.

I already measured all the clearances and shims. I took the smallest shim I had and stuck it in there, installed the cams again and rechecked the measurements and I was able to squeeze through a 0.004 feeler guage.... So were good, I just need a smaller shim and should be good to go. Kinda pissed though, I have to buy 9 new shims... seriously 9 of the 16 are out of spec. shit machine shop. Thanks for the help guys.