Ontario BS Thread

@ somebody you can also run a solenoid. It would probably be the easiest. key on or with engine running all batteries connected/charging all the batteries and key off your just using your aux batteries. Keep it simple much easier to diagnose if there is a problem.

 

Something like this. You just have to see if you want it normally open or closed and how many amps you need. Cole hersee is a good brand and readily available. Good luck.

 

Welcome @LashaTrdPro

 

They replaced the failed part with another one of the same P/N. What was that quote about insanity often attributed to Einstein?

 

That's 1.2 kWh? Getting close to iForce Max traction battery capacity.

 

Well, the original part lasted 8 years, so I should be good for another 8

 

I caved shortly after and bought the sensing relay. I understand the solenoid/relay thing (career EE), just don't want it on if I'm keyed on and the engine is off. Still going to interlock with ignition on just in case the cheap sensing relay sensing becomes senseless as it ages.

 

Now if I can series a motor with the driveshaft, hmmmm

 

8 years from now you can swap it for the aluminum one

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...for-plastic-rear-coolant-bypass-joint.701890/

 

Damn... didn't realise it was that big one at the back - I only looked at the small connector at the front...
Now it makes more sense...sigh...the more you know...
Adding this to my list... thanks for the info!

 

T-minus 3 weeks? Maybe?

 

looks amazing. I see the front is on stands but the back is on the ground and the ground clearance looks to be about 20". nice.

 

With a diesel MT conversion too right? RIGHT?!?!

 

You don’t need to sleep right?

 

Rear diff slightly touching Home Depot 5 gallon bucket… need 38-39s…

Le Manuel is coming, I see on the webs it’s a matter of shipping from UAE… shall I start go fund me page?

Sleep is overrated, no time anyways!

 

This would be the end game, either built into it or wait till this guys sells it lol

 

I’m pretty sure the week before the London meet up we could get it rolling. Going to be some long days.

 

You actually don't need that wire or shouldn't. I just built a power supply with a Renogy 40a dcdc charger. I asked the same question and got a different answer every time. I ended up not installing the wire. The power supply was on 24 hours a day for the last 8 days with no issues.

 

I believe the renologies sense the line voltage (same as the sensing relay) when the alternator is running (>12.8V) to know when to charge, so it's not trying to charge when the engine is off. My charger is a dumb DC-DC with none of this sensing built in.

 

My understanding is that vehicles with a smart alternator require the wire because the voltage can drop depending on the demands of the vehicle. If you're looking for other components for your build checkout FB Marketplace.