What Have You Done To Your 3rd Gen Today?

yeah, I’m feeling it. Switching up soon.

 

Toyota 4th of July sale. $327 with tax and shipped to the dealer. Got a chance to install it today. I’m sure there are better steel skids available but for the mild off roading down gravel roads mainly, it works for me.

 

Congratulations

 

Welcome to TW, truck looks good, but I agree, little to much space between the tire and bed finder...

That's funny, I got mine at the very end of August and I have only put 2,492 miles on it... lol

If you are using the one that comes with the oil filter, then you need something like this, mine works great and easy to use...

$11 Oil Filter Drain Hose Tool for Toyota, Lexus, Scion 2.0L - 5.7L Engines

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08BHPTCT...p_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9kZXRhaWxfdGhlbWF0aWM

 

Not that.... the cup like thing that unscrews the filter.

I have 3 of them and they all fit just a hair too snugly. I've had/have 2 other Toyota products that use the same filter housing.

 

A thin coating of oil on the inside surface makes a vacuum. Tap it a few times with a socket-head and you can remove it.

 

Well, I'll try that but in the past I've tried all sorts of stuff.... usually pry it off with a big screwdriver. Often, it's cocked on the housing so tapping it to get it straight helps.

Also kind of hard to have a vacuum with that 3/8 hole in the bottom. Hoping to find one that fits better someday. Maybe one that engages the notches instead of just the indents.

 

Just bought the same setup. Any tricks on running wire for rear camera??

 

There may be better ones, but none are better looking than yours.

 

Simple, just peel back the front and rear door molding about 4" from the top- and along the top, now you have access behind your head-liner and can simply tuck your rear camera wire up there, seal up that door moulding you just loosened and you are good to go. Make sure you mount your camera first in the rear, and you find an empty pocket to store the excess rear camera wire--I stored my excess in the rear pilar behind the SRS panel, which by the way I believe is a 10mm socket required to loosen so you can pull that small panel down just slightly, don't fully remove it it's not necessary. Hope that helps.

 

OK, try this, once you break the filter housing loose, try to tighten it just a little, you are just trying to un-cock it to make it easier to remove, or enough to break the cup back loose from the filter and then loosen the filter again, you will normally apply much less pressure the 2nd time you go to loosen it up...

Meaning, break the filter housing loose, then immediately retighten it until you break the cup loose from the filter housing, then loosen the filter again and remove it and now the cup should release from the filter housing much easier...

 

About that vacuum, I just noticed that the plastic filter housing was hard to unscrew, maybe because of expansion and when removing it the engine was always warmed up to operating temps, which is pretty hot according to my fingertip. And each oil change I swear, seemed like that housing got tighter and tighter, and harder and harder to get off.

So anyway, to avert a disaster, I replaced my plastic with the metal housing at my 75k oil change, I'll let you know at the 80k change if the housing comes off easier than the plastic one when its at operating temps....

 

Seems like that's the issue, the plastic version expands faster than the aluminum and gets stuck. Can't believe Toyota cheaped out on such a high use item for a few pennies.

 

Check Engine light came on during the drive home from the used car dealer, 250 miles from my new home. Truck purchased AS IS, WHERE IS, suck-it warranty.
I had a Napa Auto Parts place locally pull the code to find P0420 (Catalyst system below threshold). Drove it around for a little while, found a trustworthy local independent repair shop close to the house to diagnose and make recommendations. Two codes came up (P0420 and one other for an Emissions Purge Valve). Aww, come on. (sad face)
Oh well, they showed me that at operating temperature, the incoming side of the cat measured 600ºF and outgoing side measured 350ºF, No arguing that, cat is plugged. Purge Valve is stuck open too.

Replaced them both, truck happier now and no Check Engine lamp. Other items found / recommended fixes will need to wait as none of them are critical. I will handle them all before the end of the year.

 

That seems like a possibility though I just warm the engine before changing the oil, with such thin oil, I don't see the point of getting to operating temp..

I bought a metal housing months ago and also a spare 'plastic' one. I'll try the filter 'wrench' on them and see if it fits any looser.

 

Sorry to hear about your troubles, but glad you got er back running good again...

Looks like you have a 2018, but you didn't say which engine nor how many miles are on it...
You stated other items found, any of them engine related, or ???

 

Max preload on the front coilovers is probably not going to ride the best fyi. I had 275/70/17s for about a year and a half at only a 1.5in lift front and rear and I didn't think they looked too small, but my truck was not nearly as lifted as yours. I think it's just the ride height making them look small.

 

That rear bumper is sick. That’s not a cross member delete front is it?

 

- Installed C4 jerry can holder on swing out
- Frontrunner drop table on swing out
- Installed a Weboost

For the weboost: I am going to add a longer antenna cable & hardwire the power.
Next things to do: Add a relocated rear camera to the swing out.

Ignore the awful cable management.

 

Thank you! DIY HC rear, inspired by the Outgear Solutions Tilted one but all my own design, tube work, welding, etc.

Front is a modified C4 Rock Runner, but not with the crossmember delete. I'll do it some day, but relocating the PS and trans fluid lines sounded like a giant headache at the time. There's a bunch of photos on my build page if you wanted to see the modifications I did to the Rock Runner.