Replacing Blend Door Actuator - Lining it Up [2004 2.7L]

I'm having trouble getting my new blend door actuator to correctly move the door arm/cable. I installed it, aligning the actuator pin with the door arm slot (had to adjust the door arm to get them aligned). In testing, the actuator functions (moves when the hot/cold knob is turned) and it *slightly* moves the door arm, but not enough to open/close the door.

Not knowing what I don't know, I figure I need to adjust where the two "meet" along the door arm travel pattern. But while I can manually move the door arm anywhere along its travel pattern I can't manually move the actuator arm/pin.

Clearly I'm doing something wrong so am hoping someone here can set me straight.

 

Man if you can
Post some pix of this clearance issue

 

In my “limited” experience…..
See if you can loosen/set back some of the surrounding components to get your clearance
Not taking off….just to wiggle the offending part to get clearance

 

I don't think there is any sort of "adjustment". When you turn the knob, do you hear the servo motor run smoothly and then start to strain and eventually stall out? If the heater valve cable is binding it won't allow the door to open. Do the both the blend door and the heater cable move smoothly without being attached to the servo?

 

Thanks for your reply.

After some testing (running the servo on the floor) I just reinstalled it. It's working now. The servo definitely slows down a little as it travels, but it makes it to the other side in reasonable time.

I mean, it takes some effort to move them, but the resistance is fairly constant and it doesn't seem excessive. If it's usually a feather-light touch then there's definitely some gunk built up (or some other cause for resistance).

There was some odd behavior, however:

• Step 1. Connected to power and tested servo on the floor. Worked.
  
  
• Step 2. Installed with hand (aligned to pins) and turned heat/cool knob: no response. Checked ignition key (correct). Checked cable seat (correct). Removed cable, checked contacts (fine), reconnected, and attempted to run it again on the floor (did not function). Went to check fuses but stopped after I saw I would have to learn how to remove fuses. BUT - seemed like an electrical thing. Maybe a non-visible cut in the power cable?
  
  
• Step 3. Massaged the cable a bit and moved it in front of the unit so it's tucked above the floor vent and behind the console - requires less angles/twisting. Did not screw down, but is fairly secure.
  
  
• Step 4. Installed/held unit in place with hand a second time. Worked. Tested heat/cool knob several times. Worked (but with the moderate slow down noted above).
  
  
• Step 5. Screwed unit in (minus the cable harness - left cable tucked as mentioned above)
  
  
• Step 6. Started truck and ran AC. Worked. Switched to heat. Worked. Switched to AC. Worked.

So, as of right now it works. But, there was definitely something weird going on in Step 2. Maybe a cable issue? It runs now but if/when it poops out, that's where I'll look next.

Thanks again.

 

So I don't think there was anything in the way/blocking the arm from moving or the servo from operating. At least I didn't see anything. Got it working just now. Seems like a ghost in the machine, but (more likely) an issue with the cable.

Thanks for your reply.

 

It sounds like the cable is binding inside its casing. I think you have figured it out replace the cable.