2022 Tacoma SR 4x4 V6 OEM Headlight Projector Assembly w/ LED Bulbs

I have recently decided to upgrade the incandescent high/low and turn signals bulbs to LED within the stock SR trim chrome headlamp assembly.

Disclaimer: Yes, I know it is not advised to use LED bulbs with a projector assembly not designed for such an application. I am not currently in a position to spend $800-2000 on an LED headlamp assembly at this time. I have also measured the beam on a level surface and a flat wall to ensure I am not blinding other drivers.

I am currently running;
High/Low: Hikari 2025 25000LM

$34 H11/H8/H9 Light Bulb, 30000LM Super Bright, 6500K Cool White H11 Fog Light Bulb, IP68 Waterproof, Pack of 2

H11/H8/H9 LED Bulbs, 45W
Turn Signals: Morimoto XB LED Bulbs 7440/7443: XB LED Bulbs (Resistor-Free)
Resistors: Morimoto HD Load Resistors - 40w/7.5ohm T-Tap Input

The resistors are tapped into the thicker Turn Signal wire and the Ground wire on both the driver and passenger side turn signal cable. The resistors were suggested by Morimoto after bringing the issue to their attention, however, I believe the issue isn't that simple to solve.

In Use:
- With all of the light OFF the Turn Signal functions normally.
- With the Low Beams ON the Turn Signal functions normally.
- With the DRLs ON the Turn Signal hyperflashes.

I have been lurking around the forums reading some threads about the Relay box in the engine bay behind the fuse box. I have found things on the interior fuse box and stuff about harnesses.

I am not sure what I need to do at this point. Do I need to add a resistor or do I need a harness?

Posts from @Puppypunter and @crashnburn80 have been helpful.

 

Why are you wasting your money, as it's been stated ad-nauseam on here that you will get less helpful headlight output? As you stated, they aren't designed for an LED bulb. Highly recommend just saving your pennies until you can afford the correct parts to get what you need.

 

Why not just use H9 bulbs instead of H11? A whole lot cheaper than what you have done. Have you measured where the Hot spot now is? Wait, LED drop in bulbs have no hot spot, light is spewed all over the creation.
I'll be honest, I am glad that your LED set up is not working. One less truck with bad lights on the road.

Read this, and then come back to TW.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/3rd-gen-hid-vs-led-vs-halogen-h11-projector-headlights.589465/

From the thread:
"Directionallized light causes a non-uniform light pattern, giving unintended dark and hot spots in the pattern. While many bidirectional LEDs now put their chips in the correct X and Y position to attempt mimicking a filament, they are far wider than a halogen filament making the light source offset from center. As minuet changes in shrinking a halogen filament have significant positive performance effects, considerably growing the light source and offsetting it from center has the opposite effect. Focus and hot spot is greatly reduced or lost all together. This loss of focus causes significant glare and scatter in other assemblies, but due to the projectors internal light shield, glare is controlled. Focus and hot spot is now lost meaning the result is loss of distance projection or what people often refer to as lack of throw. Distance projection is the primary purpose of the headlight. This loss of ability to project distance shifts the light pattern toward the vehicle and causes a large output increase immediately in front of the vehicle. This makes for great looking photos and even initial impression in the vehicle, before realizing the distance projection has been lost. To further compound the problem, high immediate foreground light causes pupils to constrict and limit the ability to see distance in the dark. This is a fundamental geometry and physics problem with using an LED in a halogen assembly. Some may suggest that LEDs need to be adjusted up to fix the distance projection, but that in no way addresses the focus projection issue, instead just adds dangerous glare to oncoming drivers. LEDs and halogens could not be more fundamentally different. Even though the LED light source is brighter, the combination of non-uniform light pattern with loss of focus and distance projection running in an incompatible housing results in poor lighting performance. But this is not the fault of the LED, it is the result of using an LED in headlight assembly designed for a halogen light source."

 

"Reflector assemblies" are designed for just that ... reflecting light that is cast in 360 degrees. LED bulbs like you bought cast light in 2, maybe 4 directions. Read the first post at least of this, yes the first post is long: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/3rd-gen-hid-vs-led-vs-halogen-h11-projector-headlights.589465/

Use H9 bulbs for better light, clear, no blue tip. You could get away with $16 per year on those H9s.

 

You think he will listen?

 

Thanks for the advice, but I would rather waste money on LED bulbs and do it the wrong way and have less light. WTH is wrong with some people?

 

The resistors are tapped into the thicker Turn Signal wire and the Ground wire on both the driver and passenger side turn signal cable. The resistors were suggested by Morimoto after bringing the issue to their attention, however, I believe the issue isn't that simple to solve.

In Use:
- With all of the light OFF the Turn Signal functions normally.
- With the Low Beams ON the Turn Signal functions normally.
- With the DRLs ON the Turn Signal hyperflashes.

I have been lurking around the forums reading some threads about the Relay box in the engine bay behind the fuse box. I have found things on the interior fuse box and stuff about harnesses.

I am not sure what I need to do at this point. Do I need to add a resistor or do I need a harness?



"Tapped into wires" probably means "spliced into OEM lighting wires". That can only end well ...
"It does not work correctly after splicing into OEM wiring". That is called "a clue".