Help, Buzzing noise when I brake, can't figure it out

I have been having a brake issue when i stop and it makes buzzing noise and it feels like its gotten worse, i cant figure it out. Recently, I replaced the brake booster, master cylinder and rear brake cylinder. And most Recently I upgraded my brakes to tundra brakes. And still haven't figured it out, just seeing if anyone has any solutions.

 

Having a '04- presumably you have ABS. When you did this work, were you careful not to let the ABS modulator get air in it? Are you sure the "buzzing" isn't the ABS modulator?

Brake boosters usually "hiss"...

If the noise is repeatable, it might be better to try to get a video of it to post here (or rather post to a video hosting service / YT, and then link here).

 

I've actually had the issue for a long time, it started when the rear end had a leak on the passenger side, had it repaired and the brake cylinder as well. I guess that didn't work, delt with it for years now. Yes I do have abs. Haven't gotten a video on hand.

 

Other than that the truck is flawless

 

Can you post up a video/audio of the noise? Location it seems to be coming from? That will help with diagnosis.

 

Yes I will do that ASAP, the location is going to be right under the foot pedal, loud buzzing noise and vibrating feel on the pedal. Happens multiple times while driving when I apply the brake.

 

Are you the original owner of this truck?

This is an excerpt from the owners manual (a downloadable pdf is available directly from the Toyota website if you don't have a physical copy):


Do you see the ABS light on the dashboard when you turn the key to ON?

If the noise and feeling are repeatable enough, I would suggest that you try engaging the rear locker (your info states, TRD, so we'll assume you have the locker) in a safe place to do so (parking lot is ok as long as you don't make any turns with the locker engaged, a dirt road or low traction surface is a better option). These things combined are going to test out a few things.

If you don't see the ABS light on the dash at all (either from the indicator light check with the ON position, or while the locker is engaged) it means the light is out.

When you have the locker engaged, the ABS system should be inactive- if the repeatable buzz and vibration feeling go away, try disengaging the locker again, and see if it comes back.

Let us know what you learn.

 

I know where its been, quick history, my dad bought brand it new, when he had it, he replaced the brake cylinder and the rear axle seal. Both were on passenger side. He gave it to me 5 years ago when my tundra got totaled . And the abs light does come on quickly when I turn on the truck but then turns off. I currently have no dash lights on, its clean.

 

I'd suggest you try removing the ABS 30 amp fuse in the fuse box under the hood and see if that affects this buzzing while braking. That will completely disable the ABS system and if your issue resolves with it disabled you'll know your ABS modulator is the culprit.

 

Your description sounds like ABS module engagement, but the video/audio will be a dead giveaway.

The ABS light coming on and then going off after a few seconds means that the ABS system "thinks" everything is OK.

Assuming it is the ABS module engaging, you'll have a few options:

1. Disable the ABS entirely. You can do this by removing the 30A ABS fuse in the fuse box under the hood.
2. Figure out how to fix whatever is causing the ABS to engage prematurely. I don't really have any suggestions here, having never really had to troubleshoot the ABS. Someone else here probably knows exactly what to do though, or you could take it to a shop.

I think technically it could probably be one of several components in the braking system - the ABS ECS, ABS module, an ABS sensor, etc. - but it's definitely something in the ABS system. Problem is, I feel like most of that system is black box to most of us here since (a) the ABS sucks and we all hate it and (b) it's not one that many people mod/mess with.

 

Very true. Mine's been disabled for about 2 years. I too, didn't want to bother troubleshooting mine.

 

I am not a huge fan of disabling the ABS as the "fix", but I know it's the most common choice.

This video shows the details from the FSM to "read" the abs codes. I know his light isn't on, but here is the link incase that comes up again.
How to check ABS codes on 96-2002 Tacoma

I have a suspicion that he's just got air in the brake lines / abs unit, and it needs to be bled correctly. And the "gotten worse" is due to unchecked fluid loss from the more recent work to the booster, mc, and tundra brake upgrade.

I've been doing some research on that front, cause I mentioned awhile back that only Toyota could activate the ABS module to get the air out, and another member suggested there were reasonably priced solutions to DIY that. After doing the digging, it seems that what you need a OBDII with bi-directional capabilities. While $650-$800 might be reasonable in terms of what a shop or a semi-professional can swing, it was a little too steep for me to pull the trigger. Not to mention the chaos that those listings are on Amazon. They really try hard to sell the cheaper non capable models as "same as xxxxx" model. But I'd love to hear if someone else has been able to find a cheaper solution to not only read the ABS codes, but also activate the ABS module.

 

So just for funzies a couple years back I hooked up my Xtool D8 (roughly a $550 scan tool), and tried actuating the ABS module in my '03 Tacoma, and it wouldn't do it.

Same tool would actuate the ABS module in my friend's 2008 Tundra though. This was before I disabled my ABS in the Tacoma.

Maybe some day you'll come over to the dark side and be on board with the ABS delete crowd

 

Does it do it right before you come to a stop?
If so you most likely have one or more wheel speed sensors dropping out so the ABS thinks the wheel is locking up and is engaging when it shouldn't.
This can sometimes be caused by what's known as rust jacking, that is rust can build up under a sensor and push it out and away from the tone wheel just enough to make the signal weak.

A scan tool that can read ABS data would be needed to see what the speed sensors are doing.

 

I'll bet 20 bucks they did something to the abs tone ring at that corner and didn't get it back together correctly. There are spacers and a tone ring on the axle shaft and a magnetic pickup sensor in the axle housing. If the tone ring is cracked, chipped or damaged it can cause erratic low speed abs operation. Or maybe the clearance between the tip of the sensor and the tone ring is incorrect

When you press wheel bearings onto the axle you have to make sure the tone ring and everything is lined up correctly so the sensor will be in the right position after you put the axle back in. Its easy to not get it right on the first try.

 

Tried doing a video, couldnt hear crap on video, but yes it happens right before I come to a full stop and sometimes if I'm at a slow roll slightly applying the brake.