How to Swap Your Plastic Clutch Pedal for a Metal One from an FJ Cruiser

My truck was only at 35K when I did the swap and only about 2 years old at the time. Reused the return spring and all has been well.

Nothing needed to weld. I saw some other dude needed welding on his but he was using an aftermarket master cylinder and some other stuff. Stick to stock parts and you’ll be good to go. Just throw a spring in the cart, it’ll be cake to swap it out during the process. So get the parts I listed plus the spring.

 

@Grossomotto ... do you still have the hook up on these parts plus a new release spring( the top one)? and how much to ship to 31316?

 

I feel like the side to side wobble contributes to earlier mast clutch failure ... I replace my mast clutch cylinder and pedal about 6-7 years ago and it's reoccurring... probably will just do this mod ...any idea on cost

 

#23 you can loosen the nut with 14mm and spin it 180° to face forward ..much easier

 

I got about the same results on a 2nd gen. OR
Urd throw out bearing
Stock clutch
Fj pedal change +slave cylinder
All parts from the list ...no issues

 

Thanks for the writeup @BLtheP , it was amazing and exactly what I needed to get the job done! There were a few differences in the BCM mounting on my 2nd gen, but the meat and potatoes were all spot-on and every part number was exactly right. I did everything except the LandCruiser metal clevis because it was almost as expensive as every other part on the list, when I ordered from my local dealership. My master cylinder when out so I did the pedal swap "while I was there" and I think it was totally worth it! I just finished it up, along with a new slave cylinder, & @Firn 's ADD mod and it feels brand new with the same old, original 200k mile clutch.

If anyone is thinking about doing it, just go for it. Especially if you have some other reason to be in there like repairing a bad master or slave. The original Toyota parts were surprisingly affordable in 2025 if you have the patience and means to get them from a dealer in person. BL's writeup looks huge, but its only because of all the detail he provides. I probably spend more time reading this post than the actual pedal install took. Getting the accumulator out was a whole other story, but also worth it in the end, though I may have gone a different route if i knew it was going to be such a bastard to get at.

 

Awesome! Glad you like it and that my write up could make it easy to get done. I’m still very happy with mine 1.5 years and 50k or so miles later.

Sometimes I wonder if I would have been better off with the plastic Clevis. When I’m really driving the truck hard, like flooring it up to 90 mph in 3rd, the clutch pedal gets a bit of a rattle to it and it’s the clevis causing it. Not sure if I need to lengthen the pushrod a bit to minimize free play or what. Don’t want it to start to push on the clutch. Kinda wonder if the plastic Clevis would have been a better or at least more noise isolating approach. But I’m also not itching to change it either.

 

This was the other half of the reason I thought against going that route. I saw your mention about needing to grease it earlier in the thread and that with price tag convinced me I'd be fine with the plastic clevis that was already included with the master. The original all-plastic setup did go 200k, so I figured that little piece wouldn't be so bad considering it was still a Toyota part and all the other improvements the FJ pedal assembly has.

Glad yours is still going strong, I'm looking forward to lots of good miles on mine Now its time to find out how many miles are left in the clutch...

 

The grease was no big deal, never had an issue with noise since then, but the rattle was definitely something annoying that came about later when I was driving it hard one day. Literally sounded like engine pinging lol. But yeah, doing it over again I’d try the plastic Clevis just for the different experience. I think I even have that plastic one somewhere - might try it out eventually.

Isn’t the “bolt hole” on it an open fork that is somewhat slotted? If so, did you just thread it until it was up against the back of the pedal at rest? Never understood what the purpose of that slot is. The metal Clevis was closed off holes, which is good except without it being a perfect size to the pin, means a bit of rattle under high engine load.

 

Yes, its slotted a good bit and open on one end but pinches in a little more like a claw at the opening than straight open a fork so it still couldn't fall off the pin if it were pulled from the other direction. The force from working it falls into throat of the clevice and the pressure plate pushes back in the same direction so there's basically never any load on "the claw" anyway.

I left the clevis and jam nut loose until I had the whole bracket bolted tight back in the truck then I adjusted it until it was tight, backed it off just enough to where I could feel play in the pin and locked it down. There is the tiniest perceptible take-up in the very tippy top of the pedal that you can feel if you're focusing on it but no pressure on the clutch at rest, so I'd call it perfect.