Manual transmission issue

I imagine this has been asked and answered before, but I'm having an issue with my 2019 Tacoma TRD Off-Road with manual transmission.

Before I start with the issue, let me say I already did the accumulator delete mod, and the problem existed both before and after I did it.

Okay, the problem:

In first gear, on any steep incline on-road or off-road, when I'm trying to get started from a dead stop, I try to give it the right amount of gas to 'feather' the clutch and get going without burning out or whatever. But it feels like the truck is about to stall, no matter how much gas I give it. And often, in tricky situations off-road, it does just stall. It's like the more gas I give it, the less likely it is to move forward.

I've played with all the buttons to see if it makes any difference (traction control, etc) but it doesn't seem to matter.

Is the first gear just too high of a gear? Is my fuel filter clogged? It's super annoying because it makes it way harder to get out of tricky situations off-road, especially if the trail is steep.

Anyone run into this problem? Anything to do besides re-gear the transmission?

 

When mine did that, my clutch was died shortly after.

I've got the accum delete, Core shifter, a tune, re-geared, and I still run into that. The only fix I can mention is to give it more gas. I still stall mine out on occasion too though.

 

Part of the problem is that this engine has the off idle torque of a riding lawn mower.

In off road situations using low range is a great help when the going is slow & tough.

 

Quote of the day. I gotta remember this one.

 

I can release my clutch going uphill in my gravel driveway, no throttle and it crawls up a couple car lengths with minimal effort.

I still want to re gear and get a 4th gen trans in there for the lower lower (1-3) gears.

 

I suggest working on your clutch foot. The trick to starting on hills is to release the clutch to the point just before it starts to engage before you even think about starting to move, and then release the clutch the rest of the way as you give it ample gas. Giving it gas before the clutch engages is useless, no matter the amount of feathering, you'll just wear out your clutch faster and likely roll backwards.

I've driven offroad and climbed steep ledges on inclines and killed it a few times, the lack of torque can be hard to overcome, 4-low obviously helps a bunch. You can use the Clutch Start Cancel function in those situations (sounds awful but works as intended), and I found adding a front camera helped me a lot in those situations as far as timing when the gas pedal is required to climb a ledge.

If you are having the same troubles on-road, then definitely work on your clutch foot, or use the hand brake method to get started. Figuring out where your clutch engages is as easy as parking in a flat parking lot, and slowly letting out the clutch without using the gas until you start to move, then it's just muscle memory.

 

OP, you just need more practice. The more load on the engine, the more you need to slip the clutch. If the situation is so extreme that you cannot avoid killing the engine or burning the clutch, put it in 4lo.

 

According to your sig, you have aftermarket suspension and wheels. So I am going to assume you have larger and heavier tires. You might consider a gearing change. Especially if this started after these modifications.

 

Thinking about teaching my daughter in 2lo so she gets some practice swings in. Then sending her into a manual VW tdi, with gobs of torque and much shorter throws.

 

I have 33” mud terrains and I have no issue taking off from a stop.

 

I don't doubt it,, just saying heavier and/or taller tires will add to the issue.

 

I had 75# at each corner with 265/75/16 bfg ko2 and the trd pro rim. Still the same.

 

I doubt anyone could detect a difference in a blind test.

 

Oh it’s pretty noticeable. Have had E load Coopers as my summer tires and SL Blizzaks as my winters the last couple years and when I swap them in the winter I suddenly feel like I’m in a race car.

 

I don’t disagree, but the subject at hand is starting out from a stop. The extra rolling resistance is not noticeable in that scenario in my experience. On the other hand, steep inclines are very noticeable. Either way, it is not an issue. The issue is that the driver needs more practice.

 

After I ended up with 275/70/17 and a modest weight reduction, at about 15 lbs, it made a difference. But then again I wasn’t blindfolded in this experience.

 

Yeah you’re not wrong.

It took me a week or so to get used to how much more I slip the clutch to get going on my 32s e loads vs the factory tires. I also stall it in reverse a bit more often now when I didn’t really before.

 

That’s what I’m saying - you can really notice 20 extra pounds per corner starting from a stop. All that extra weight takes a lot to get rotating

 

I would subscribe that it’s a little of both. Engine tuning and technique. I was teaching a young person manual transmission operation and one of the obstacles I gave them after basic shifting was starting on a steep hill. It was a short exercise (for fear of clutch damage) but they would stall it about 75% of the time. Me, same hill, never stalled it. Like mentioned in a previous post, the idea is to ‘catch’ the load prior to gassing the engine. If you’re really having trouble starting on a hill you can use the hand brake. BTW If you think the 3G Taco is a bitch, try a foot clutch H-D with a flathead engine. On an incline. With only one foot on the ground.

 

Ok, but are able to solve the “issue” with practice, yes?