Clutch and fly wheel replacement

Howdy Y'all.

Now that my truck is at 120k miles on the factory clutch I am starting to get concerned with it failing on me and leaving me stranded. I have not noticed any slip in it yet but I am not getting engagement till maybe the last 10% of the peddle travel. I have already decided to use a new Luk LFW449 and

$185 AISIN CKT-065 OE Matched Clutch Kit - Compatible with Select Toyota T100, Tacoma

AISIN CKT-065 for the replacement parts.

What I am after is a set of procedures to follow to make sure I can have as little down time as possible. As well as the communities thoughts on my parts selection.

The truck is a 2011 AC 2.7L 5MT

 

mine lasted 230k.

 

Then you seem to be an outlier. Everyone I have asked with a 2nd gen says you are going to get about 100k with normal driving.

 

I had a shop do mine at about 155K miles. Shifts were getting a little sloppy and I had some jumping on acceleration. I have the six speed, so not sure of the differences, but I also replaced the rear main seal, throw out bearing (URD), and used a heavy fly wheel. I used an Asin kit for the clutch. Seemed fine and matched OE quality.

Some of the clutch adjustments on install didn't seem that straight forward for me, so I didn't tackle this one myself. Additionally I don't have a lift and wanted to spare my back.

There's a lot of DIY videos on the V6 6 speed on YouTube.

 

But how different is the process between the two? The one thing I have learned about Japanese cars is they are extremely easy to work on but only if you follow the procedure exactly.

 

@Thenewclarence is your truck 4x4? and do you have a shop space to work on yourself? You mechanically inclined/ever replaced a clutch before?

 

No 2WD. Yes I do my driveway and garage has seen plenty of wrenching on cars. Either it be my own or someone else's. Yes I hope so. Been working on cars for the better part of a decade now. "Restored" a 1966 Mustang starting at 14 and had it ready by my SR year of HS. Kept that sucker running for years before I got a more reliable ride. I also have some shop experience from working as a line tech at a local auto shop. but all of my knowledge is base on Detroit

The only reason I am trying to get the exact procedure for this is to have the lowest down time as possible. I have another ride but I know if I dont do this in one shot it will take a while to get done.

 

Im at 212k on the clutch in my 2006. I think you might just need to adjust the pedal so that it engages closer to the floor board.

 

I will see how much adjustment I have tomorrow.