18 Tacoma fuel leak

It doesn’t hurt to ask. To replace the fuel lines, I think is very big job,,,, like separating the body and frame sized job.
I’m not suggesting being dishonest, just asking. While not common, an honest dealer may realize there was a problem with their fix.

 

I understand I’m just not very lucky lol

 

for those looking for a quick fix to broken QD, I used the Dorman 5/16 kit. Also used the Dorman connectors similar to the shark bite connectors for pvc. working great so far! the black cover doesn't fit when you're done but I suspect that does'nt do much other than minor protection for QD

here's the connector:

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...652/automotive-truck-2016-toyota-tacoma?pos=1

 

for those reviewing this thread and thinking removing the fuel cap will depressurize the fuel system before disconnecting the lines, it will not. So be prepared for fuel to spray.
Removing the fuel cap will depressurize the EVAP system, the check valve in the fuel pump will keep the lines pressurized. So if you have to do this repair at home in your garage and don't want a fuel bath, pull the fuel pump fuse and run the truck until it dies, or hold a rag over the joint and disconnect slowly while they depressurize.

 

So my 2008 Tacoma TRD sport just developed a fuel leak at this exact same connector - about 1 drop every 5 seconds. Can the female side of this quick connect be removed / replaced or do I have to purchase the entire line assembly that goes back to the fuel tank. I can's find a part # for just the quick connect fitting, only the line assembly and I really don't want to drop the tank to replace the line going to the fuel pump.

 

To who just peeled back the sleeve and reconnected the line to the quick connect how are your quick repairs holding up? I've got a similar leak although I don't think it is due to a poor seal at the quick connector but potentially actual damage to the underlying gas line.

 

Hi all!

I had this same issue on my 2017 TRD Sport DCSB 4x4 V6 Auto. I noticed a gas smell after shutting the truck off and eventually realized there was a small puddle under the truck.

My truck has not been impacted by the Customer Support Program (23TE01) for the high pressure fuel pump so these lines have never been touched by myself or the dealer that I'm aware of.

After taking a closer look, it appeared that the coating of the fuel main tube at the joint where the metal tube meets the flexible tube near the gas tank was the culprit. It looked "wrinkled" like others in this thread and it was clear that is where the drops of gas were coming from. I took it to the dealer and asked them to take a look. I showed them close up photos and videos of the fuel tube leaking and explained that the coating was likely the issue.

After a few hours, they came back and said that it would be almost ~$1000 for parts and labor for them to replace the fuel main tube, part # 77252-04150, along with the charcoal canister pipe, part # 77747-04080. They said after visual inspection the fuel tube was damaged from road debris and that they recommend replacing both at the same time. Parts are roughly $150 for the two pieces of metal tubing so they were estimating ~$800 in labor and claimed removing my skid plates would be a factor even though I said I could do that myself.

Regardless, I didn't believe them that the metal tube was damaged nor was I going to spend that much, so I picked the truck up. I was not charged any diagnostic fees since I told them exactly what the issue was.

When I got home, I removed the gas cap to try to reduce the pressure in the tank and popped the plastic clip off the two QD lines. I carefully pressed the two release tabs on the fuel line while holding a rag over the joint. It definitely spewed a good amount of gas and gas continued seeping out of the fuel tank side of the line so I tried to move quickly. I used an exacto knife to cut off the coating of the fuel line. I plugged it back and put the cover back on and so far no leak! I plan to keep an eye on it but so far, so good. The metal tube was not damaged in any way - it was just the coating that was messed up. Overall it took less than minutes to do and no replacement parts were needed.

Thanks to everyone for the advice in this thread. For any others in similar situations, it's worthwhile to try removing the coating as a first step. It is highly unlikely that you actually need to remove and replace the entire line which is likely what the dealer will recommend.

Photos of process:

 

Sorry for the thread revival but this helped me diag and fix a fuel leak on my 2017 OR.
Very simple to remove that coating with an exacto blade. My driver side line's coating bunched up causing a steady drip.

Thanks