1997 2.7l tacoma no start

So my truck won’t start after I drive it and park it for 10-15 minutes. After about an hour it will. When it won’t start I have checked injector pulse and there is none. I can hit it with some ether and it will fire right up and gain injector pulse. Replaced crank, cam and maf sensors. Leaning towards ecu or ignition switch. Any thoughts?

 

Search “hot no start”

I’m sure u will run into one of my threads dealing with the same issue

could be easy CTS(back of head near firewall)
Could be harder (leaking injectors)

The latter was my issue

 

Leaking injectors was your issue? Did you have the same symptoms ?

 

YES!

but after replacing CTS and injectors, got another no start condition
with diagn help here, the 3 month old CTS (that i just replaced) failed.....had to RR CTS for 2nd time

 

But I have no injector pulse so it shouldn’t be leaking injectors it’s something electrical

 

With the injectors turning off “no pulse” I am thinking CTS or ECU. I would start with CTS.

 

FWIW, the CTS is usually referred to as the ECT on a scan tool.
Easy enough to check if you have a scan tool.

 

How do you check that with a scan tool?

 

No injector pulse when she warm soaks... IMHO definitly electrical in nature. You are going to have to check the all of the grounds, this might help but then it might be the wrong year.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/all-ground-point-locations.727612/

The parts you replaced, factory parts or?

With a scan tool and when she does not start, is there communication between the tool and the PCM?

 

Verify the ignition switch is 100 percent good. It's actually two switches. It can cause a lot of aggravation as power for the ignition and injectors goes through it.

 

Replaced the CTS still does it. Ecm?

 

You're probably already aware but there are 2 coolant temp sensors for the first gens. The one wire on front passenger side gives the gauge temp, the two wire on the back of the head by the firewall outputs to the ECM. If that sensor fails the truck defaults to limp mode which can cause starting issues. You might also be getting a P0115.

 

I have reread your inital text and I am staying with my electrical diagnosis with a modification. Next time she doesnt start see if you can ohm out one of the injectors... I will bet that the solinoids is/are going open circuit due to heat and that is why you are not getting any clicking. Your adding starting fluid kind of confirms my suspicion.

 

This is exactly what happened to cylinder no. 2 on my 3.4 it would run perfect when cold and misfire when hot.

 

I rechecked injector pulse and it’s there. Idk what happened the first time I checked it