I have never worked on a front end before, is replacing a spindle approachable?

Hi all.

I've been trying to work on my truck more and more, but I've never done anything with the front end. I am wanting to replace my spindles with those pictured below, which will have the bearings and hubs installed as well as well as the UBJ. From my limited understanding, I think that makes it a pretty simple job but I'm nervous about getting things pulled off halfway and realizing I don't know what I'm doing. Any tips or general advice?

Much appreciated

 

Not that hard of a job all in all. I'd do one side completely before doing the other side (that way you can look back at where things go on the non torn apart side).

You'll really want a good front end service kit that has pullers for the outer tie rod ends, lower ball joint, and upper ball joint. An impact wrench will also make this job far easier/more enjoyable.

If you don't have another vehicle and can't walk to work, then I'd even take a Friday or Monday off and give yourself some extra time for things to go wrong. When they do, you usually can get a really helpful reply on here within a couple hours or so.

I'd also recommend looking up torque specs for all front end components ahead of time, and maybe printing them out or screenshotting them on your phone. Saves a lot of time when reassembling.

Also you're going to want to replace your lower ball joint bolts (there's 4 per side, so you'll need 8).

Other miscellaneous goodies that will help:
- Tie Wire (to tie up the brake caliper out of your way)
- Propane/ MAP gas torch (if rust is present)
- PB Blaster (if rust is present on hardware - presoak it days prior)

Edit: Almost forgot your going to need a 35mm (1-3/8) socket (ideally 6 point) to remove the axle nut from the CV axles. This can be tricky without a big ole' impact gun (its well over 200 ft. lb of torque). With a breaker bar the axle wants to just spin (you can put it in 4WD and ensure the opposing wheel is resting on the ground, to hold it from spinning). You'll want a spare metal tube (jack handles work well) to put over your breaker bar, in order to break it loose. You'll also need a torque wrench that goes up to 250 ft. lbs. if you want to torque this nut to spec.

 

Hey thanks for the detailed info, much appreciated.

This is more work than I was told. I wasn't aware that the LBJs even had to be touched? I thought those were attached to the knuckle?

 

So because they're attached to the knuckle (with those 8 bolts I mentioned), they'll need to be unbolted from the old outgoing steering knuckle and placed onto the new incoming knuckles.

Spindles and knuckles are the same thing

 

By the way, if you don't mind me asking, what did you pay for those knuckles? They look gnarly and I've been meaning to replace my front wheels bearing as a preventative maintenance item (got 300k miles on the originals) for quite some time.

 

I build complete bolt in setups for ADD or Manual hub conversions as well. I’ve never looked into FreeLance Fab but all mine are OEM only parts.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/for-sale-4x4-manual-hubs-spindles-knuckles-and-cvs.709082/

 

Interesting, on the bottom of my spindle it looks like there's a completely different component where the LBJ is that can be removed from the spindle itself. I'll need to dig more.

A lot. $1100 with hardware and UBJ installed. Honestly I know know if I need them, but the truck is 25 years old and I'm a little over GVWR so I'm doing some proactive work to address. This is the only thing I'm doing in the front as apparently the top of the spindle is a known failure point, and the upgraded spindle has a larger ring there.

 

https://fr33lancefab.com/products/1...uoia-complete-spindles?variant=46149043519726

My knuckles are slowly flaking away so I was curious as well. Look solid though.

 

I hadn't seen these before, good to have options.
Mine turns 25 next year, planning on giving it some birthday gifts as well.

 

Those are aftermarket steering knuckles. If you want OEM let me know. The top ring is the same size. That is a slug adapter dropped into them to accommodate aftermarket UCAs. It doesn’t make them strong just allows the UBJ reverse direction from OEM.

Overall, totally doable project. My bolt in setup requires the 35mm already mentioned for the CV bolt. You don’t need an impact but it helps. You can just stick a screwdriver into the brake rotor vanes to hold the hub still.

Four M12 bolts, with 14mm heads and then your tie rods also mentioned as well. Great way to learn and acquire the tools for later on down the road.

 

Rad. I've never touched a tie rod, any more info on what you mean there?

 

Disregard, I was thinking second/third gen. You only
Need to bolt up UBJ, CV nut and the four bolts mounting the LBJ. That is it.

 

Now that sounds like shit I can do haha. Hell yeah. Thanks for the info, pal.

 

Putting the caliper back on would be good. lol

 

Mine are red so I can't miss em!

 

Yeah, not hard.
I had to remove one of mine trailside, take it to a shop and have work done on it and then reinstall trail side.

 

Look up some youtube videos also.

 

In addition to the other comments, yours is a 2000 (right?) and if it's never been touched your biggest challenge will be getting everything apart. As mentioned have a hefty impact wrench, big ass hammer, the proper size pullers for TRE's and ball joints, and two cans of PB blaster on hand. I cannot stress the importance of good jackstands/wheel blocks, people have died using cinder blocks and other quick fixes.

If it's your first time, you will arrive at this point, likely a couple times. :-D When I did my suspension (no spindles) I would stand there with it half torn apart, arms aching, sinking feeling in my stomach, and think, oh my god, what have I done LOL . . . When you reach this point, hit everything with PB Blaster yet again and go take a nap. Everything always takes longer than you think so allow for it.