1st Gen Haltech ECU Discussion

@treyus30

Finally got around to dialing my injector dead time a little bit last night. My particular injectors are the teal top, silver body 2jz 312cc injectors.

On my ECU, I have an Injector Deadtime Tuning tool that oscillates the injection mode between batch and sequential injection.



I turned closed loop O2 feedback off, and held the engine at a constant RPM and took a log. The first log is 1.2ms dead time @ 13.5v. The green square wave is the injection mode alternating between sequential and batch, mode 1 is sequential and mode 2 is batch. As you can see, there's a marked difference in AFR as injection mode flips.




Lowered dead times, 1.03ms @ 13.5v. AFRs getting closer together.



Lowered dead times again, 0.95ms @ 13.5v. AFRs are now pretty close between sequential and batch. So I know I'm on the right track.


The next step (which I haven't done yet) would be to introduce a new voltage and then rerunning the test. Easiest way would probably be to just disconnect the alternator to lower the voltage. Repeat the test, find the correct dead time at the lower voltage, and then draw a straight line between the points. Hope that makes sense.

 

Found a guy on IG to make this for the IC7. Looks like it may work for my application.

 

That's a nice splash hood, what does he make them out of?

 

I assume its a standard filament. I didn't ask...It does come with a clear plastic cover, bolts, and gasket to weatherproof the enclosure.

Is there a type of material I should request?

 

Oh it's a 3D print... I was just curious. I'd get it out of ABS or ASA at a minimum for outdoor exposure. Regular PLA and PETG aren't going to hold up well long in elements. I thought it might be a milled aluminum part or something originally

 

For 3d prints request ASA or nylon-carbon blended filament. You will get some UV resistance. I have parts that are 8 yrs old on my truck that are nylon/ carbon. The nylon/ carbon does absorb water.

 

Got an SNP plug and play harness from a customer on my bench... I am shocked at the wiring faults on it. Power was wired to constant 12v to begin with so the ECU and CAN devices never would shut off, and it has high resistance on the 5v reference pin, and even worse cam and crank sensor are wired entirely wrong. Crank - is going to the positive terminal which on a toyota harness even though the sensor is non-polar causes the shared ground in the harness to basically mix cam - with crank - and must be wired to sensor ground on a Haltech to have the filter circuit deal with it properly. This is sloppy work, it ended up on my bench because the customer was unable to get support from SNP. There are soldered bodge splices sticking up above the epoxy potting that covers the wiring job too, like really, you couldn't replace the wire you botched, that was a step too far in quality control? I wish I could dissolve this epoxy to see how the solder job on the header is, the resistance on some of these pins is surprising. I have more than one customer with similar issues, glad to have finally seen one of these in person, in the future fixing these seems like a waste of time, the crimps on the Haltech connector side are even loose.

B1(Crank +) has continuity to E6-6(Crank -)


Whats this?


17ohm of Resistance from A9(5v Ref) to E7-1(VCC, 5v)


This plug and play is decidedly all plug and zero play.

 

It's barely plug at this point..

 

At one point they were purchasing the harnesses from Boomslang, and they were ok, except for a few wires that needed to be corrected. Looks like the harnesses are now made in house, and the quality went to total sh!t.

 

Yeah the early ones were most certainly boomslang. Much better potting around the connector and the characteristic green tefzel wiring. I don't know who's making this, maybe they're in house, maybe they're not affiliated at all and SNP sells them gray market. But they have not done their research. Beyond the stuff that's wired entirely wrong, some stuff is wired pointlessly. Like the AC idle up valve... They wired it in even though you don't need it when you're running a Haltech, and they wired it to an AVI which is not capable of making it function. They did not however wire in an AC compressor engaged signal. So even if this valve had been wired right it would never know when to turn on.

Many of the crimps appear to have been done by a hand with severe grip strength deficiency as well...

 

Wow. Did not know that snp was no longer using boomslang harnesses. So its not just the base tune that is suspect. This is even worse.

 

Perfect, thanks fellas. The buggy will live int he garage except when out wheeling. The vendor has ASA and nylon/carbon available to use.