Questions on sealing timing cover

I have the dreaded oil leak at the timing cover. 2022 with 56K miles. I took it to the dealer, and they confirmed the leak, but characterized it as a seep and not an actual leak. So, they will not do a warranty repair which I sorta understand. I would not have let them pull the engine to repair this anyway, I was just wanting to get it confirmed and documented. I was hoping the dealer or Toyota Care would offer an extended warranty, but when asked both my service advisor and Toyota Care said I was sol if it worsened outside the warranty period.

The dealer later quoted me $5500 for a 7-year 125K extended warranty.

Oh well, here I am. So far, I have not seen a drip and have not lost any oil in between OCI. I was hoping to keep the truck for another 2-3 years and was contemplating sealing the outside of the timing cover as I have read on other threads. This brings me to my questions I would appreciate help with.

1. Can someone explain or point me to a video on how to detach the power steering pump specifically for this process of sealing the timing cover? I saw a video of how to remove the power steering pump but, I am not sure I need to go this far. Can I leave the lines attached or do I need to completely remove the power steering pump?

2. I read where the recommended sealant is Permatex The Right Stuff. In researching this, there are a few different types. Can someone advise what specific one?

3. Any other tips or suggestions are welcomed.

TIA.

 

If you just have a seep leave it alone. JMHO

Its a good possibility it will remain a seep for the life of the truck.

 

Just a seep? I would def leave that alone. There is a very good chance of making it worse trying to make it better.

 

I sealed mine externally (among many others) successfully. Sealing it externally will not induce further harm. Its a manufacturing defect where the mating surface of a very small area is imperfect.
See this thread here.
Its a very simple process. Takes less than 30 min.s to get to the area from the passenger wheel well (easiest access to the pump imo) , unbolt the ps pump, and start your cleaning.

1. Use a long breaker bar (or buy a serpentine tool) to loosen via the tensioner and pull the belt off ps pump (no need to fully remove, thus keeping the orientation of belt).
2. Remove passenger wheel
3. Remove front splash guard
4. Remove ground wire bolt and sensor connector on rear of ps pump.
5. Remove 2 long front bolts that secure ps pump.
6. Carefully loosen and remove ps pump from bracket, push her forward out of the way, and set her down on the frame (whilst keeping all the lines still connected).
You now have access to the leak and continue on with cleaning and sealing. Permatex right stuff is what i used as well. Still going strong

 

I will tell you what we have done at our shop on 3 of these & so far no problems. We strip the front of the engine down, include radiator, then steam clean the entire area and use acetone or brake clean to make sure it is really clean and run a bead of rtv silicone on the outer timing case cover. LET this cure for 24 hrs before starting up. so far 2 yrs now no leaks from that area.

 

Pics of the seep/leak? I just got mine done under warranty a few weeks ago and I wasn't sure if they were going to call it a leak or not. If it's on the bubble maybe try going to another dealer for their opinion?

 

The only difference between a leak and a seep is flow rate. Does the warranty clarify that leaks have to have a certain minimum flow rate before they are covered under warranty? I assume not.

 

Photo attached. It is hard to see but visible behind the belt. As I mentioned in the original post, I would not let them pull the engine for this even if they had said it was covered under warranty.

The next closest dealer is more than 100 miles away and would not be worth my time.

I have a couple long road trips planned later this year and do not intend to keep this truck for more than another 2-3 years. The idea of sealing it from the outside is something I am considering to prevent it from getting worse and losing oil between OCI, and to give me peace of mind when driving long distances.

 

The whole front end, and whole cover? I mean, I guess that's a good idea/practice, being a shop and applying due diligence. But all the info I could find, pointed to that one specific area, the seam directly behind the ps pump. I heard a post or two rumoring a possible leak location on the driver side somewhere, but couldn't find any real evidence or 1st hand experiences of that online myself. Maybe I didnt look hard enough idk..

Not saying this isn't the way. Just might be overkill for someone not as inclined, or willing, to tackle such a job, doing it that way. But I would like to assume, that you're ultimately trying to convey (like me); that sealing externally is definitely a solution..

It just seems like the op might be struggling to comprehend the situation as it is, so i just wanted clarify, that for the vast majority of these leaks/seeps, it would be located in the seam directly behind the ps pump, next to the galley ball plug.

To be safe though, your first step should be to locate the leak before proceeding. I cleaned the entire area prior to sealing. Removed the pump, liberally cleaned it, reinstalled pump. I also used some dye in the oil. Drive it for a little bit, then pull the pump again and inspect. Locate the leak (my money is on this seam), and continue with the typical seal procedure to the affected area (making sure your scrape the old rtv off and get the area VERY clean this time).

 

I do not know the specific language regarding the warranty, but the dealer said they follow TSB 0008-20 which differentiates between a seep and leak.

 

Thank you, this helps a lot.

 

Yeah yours isn't too bad given the mileage. I wouldn't sweat it. Just FYI they don't pull the engine for this fix anymore - now they drop out the steering rack and front diff for access.

 

Not that I’d have a say, but if it was my truck I’d rather them pull the engine. Lot easier to deal with the upper and lower pans and sealing the cover properly when it’s on a stand and you can get up close vs bending over the front of the truck and reaching down or standing underneath with a lift. But, I’m out of warranty and wouldn’t pay for this job anyways so I guess on mine it won’t matter.

 

Thanks. I understand that some shops or techs drop the steering rack and front diff but according to my local dealer and an independent shop I spoke with, they pull the engine to fix this leak.

 

This is also a valid statement. Many have just accepted the seep and commit to occasionally cleaning the engine after a good bit. Its usually not enough of a leak to worry about at all. Especially if its not dripping to the ground, which would indicate its this "seep" and not some other more detrimental "leak" located further down in the block. And not enough to affect oil levels between oil change intervals..
You could literally put this off and not really worry too much if that's the case. Longer trips will exacerbate the seep tho and let it accumulate on the engine, and undercarriage from spraying back. But I didnt want the slightest leak/seep to go unnoticed and untreated. Because it will make a mess of things just from spraying back. In the long term you'll have a hard time keeping things clean and other potential leaks/problems will be far harder to detect with dusty grimy oil caking up your undercarriage and components all the way back to your rear end.. Plus, I like having that peace of mind too!

 

The OP's really isn't too bad tho. Doesn't appear to be more than a few drops over 3+ years and almost 60k.

Mine at 4.5 years and 55k looked much worse. The whole front passenger side of the engine was coated in oil but it was never enough to drip into the skid plate.

 

Definitely not worth messing with.

 

THIS is not the correct way to repair for sure, but it is not to expensive this WAY AND SO FAR we have had very good luck. If mine starts to leak like this I would have to think long and hard the way I would want to repair this. Also by repairing this correctly you [will run into other issue's along the way] >>> no question <<< we tear down the front of the engine so we can really clean everything & then seal without anything in our way.. SO MUCH EASIER

 

I bought a 2016 almost two years ago now with 55K on it. I had been watching for a manual transmission and pulled the trigger after everything looked good. I found out just a couple days later it had the timing cover leak (didn't know it was a common thing before). Dealer would not do much of anything in my opinion. I ended up sealing it from the outside with permatex. It lasted for several months, but is seeping again. The permatex seemed to slow the leak down quite a bit. I accepted the fact it has a seep now. No noticeable oil loss on dipstick. I just hop under it every week or two and wipe it so it doesn't build up. Hoping to keep the truck a long time still.

To be honest I would be hesitant to have the dealer do the repair even if they covered. The repair is invasive and some have leaked again even after it was repaired "correctly."