Help wheel and tire fitment

FNG here, with a 20’ TRD Sport I’m looking to do a 2.5” lift and would like to get into a 285/70/17 tire without cutting, I’m looking at SSW raptor -12 or Method 314 -0 wheels…can I do this without cutting? The truck will never be off-road if that helps

 

It's almost guaranteed you'll need to do a cab mount chop on these trucks to run a 33. You can run tall skinnys with higher offset wheels but they don't look as good. For that spec plan on cutting, also plan on higher caster UCA's to get the alignment dialed in at an alignment shop that actually knows how to adjust these trucks. Just bite the bullet and do it all at once.

Also that much lift without going long travel will ruin the ride quality. Stick to around 1.7" and you'll be much happier.

I feel like we all wanted the same look for these, but it's not as simple as it looks to achieve.

 

If you never off road your life will be much smoother if you leave off the lift and wheel / tire packages that require modifications.

Hate your wheels? See if you can find Toyota wheels that suit you looks wise. Then put on a set of 265 Michelin Defenders and enjoy the road!

 

im so confused bc ive read guys say yes you’ll have to cut and others say they’ve done this with either no cutting or very minor cutting

 

I’ll be honest the look is more important than the ride bc it’s not a family car

 

High caster UCAs increase caster by pushing the wheel backwards. This will create more rubbing. You need to increase caster through your LCAs and reduce it through your UCAs to maximize the space between your tires and your cab mount.

 

I have 33s with no cutting required, just had to trim/bend some plastic

 

Out of the box, yes, but then you go to a shop that knows what they're doing to correct it via the lower eccentrics and get you an increased overall caster value and you'll be set. When you go to the higher lift heights it is highly recommended. Worked great for me. YMMV.

Seen this as well, but I have no idea how. All these trucks seem to be different though.

 

The goal here was to run 33s without cutting, not obtaining more caster. The more caster you have from the top, the less space you will have from the back of your tire to the cab mount. So to clear the cab mount without cutting you’ll need to max out the lowers and reduce it from the top by using adjustable UCAs, not adding caster from the top.

Additionally, there are several aftermarket solutions such as BTF LCAs that push the tire forward an inch.

 

LCA's are a different ballgame. More than most of us want to spend, but a great upgrade.

 

I think your missing the jist here. Added positive castor built into a uca moves it the wrong way it moves it back trying to correct to a stock alignment. Meaning you will run out of lca adjustment faster and will not be able to hit the same overall castor.

Now replying to OP.
I ran a 17x9 +1 285/70r17 with no cmc for a year without any real issues and the truck left pavement regularly. I did this with 2 different uca's spc and dirtking. Now the dirt king uca is one of these positive castor uca's that makes it harder to clear, Harder but not impossible.
Make sure you are prepared to take the hit on fuel economy and have the potential to be dealing with odd vibrations problems. I had to do a carrier bearing drop angled axle shims and a front clamshell bushing to get mine running dead smooth again.

Wheel offset is going to make or break if your going to rub or not. +10 to 0 give you the best chance anything negetive your odds start to drop. Also pay attention to the weights of the tire and wheel your looking at as this will greatly determine how much you notice in drivability.

If it's a daily skip the lift pop on a 0 offset wheel with either a 265/70r17 or 255/80r17 AT tire and start there. You get alot more macho look with far less issues. I only drive my truck on the weekends and if I had to daily it I would of done things different. Even with the amount of highway I have been driving I have been debating a change in set up after these 295's wear out.

 

Welcome to TW...

 

Not missing anything. OP said he wanted to run 2.5" of lift and I don't recommend anyone to run 2.5" of lift on the stock third gen UCA's (or at all without going LT, tbh). And if you're replacing just the uppers, IMO you should get some with higher caster to improve drivability. Don't buy them if you don't want them. I'm easily able to hit 4.5 degrees with my setup, probably more, but I run it around 4 IIRC with a CMC and don't rub anywhere and with the rest of my setup it's one of the smoothest and truest tracking vehicles I've ever been in. Can't see needing more caster unless maybe you want to run 37's or bigger, in which case likely everything would be custom anyway. I'm on 285/70/17 now on 17x8.5 -10's and should be able to fit 285/75/17's with this setup without making any additional changes which is the plan for when these piece of crap Nittos wear out, which shouldn't take long seeing as how half the tread is gone in 16k miles. But anyways, good luck OP. Higher offset wheels will give you less likelihood of rubbing, but they don't look nearly as good and if you want the look, you'll need to put in the effort.

 

I believe the 2nd gen cab mounts are slightly smaller than 3rd gen, so distinguish 2 v. 3 commentary on fitment.

 

We dont admire cars in the right lane...

 

Ignore the arguing going on and search for that tire size on the forums here and you will see exactly what people are doing. Just tell the alignment shop to get your caster over 3*. They may not be able to get that much but if you don't tell them a spec they will just put it to factory specs.

I have 285/70/17 tire on my truck right now and just touch the body mount on hard bumps or full flex at full lock. I had to remove the mud flaps, cut a little off of the bumper cover (cant even tell it's so small) and move the inner fender liner forward and heat and reshape it front and rear of the tire. Oh and I think I cut a little tab off the fender flare right next the the body mount. I have the 2021+ 4runner pro wheels which are +4mm offset. You going -12 or 0 will make the tire stick out more and cause the wheel to rub the body mount.

 

Negative offset brings the tire out. His problem will be worse than yours if he runs 0 or -12.

 

You are right. I was thinking backwards. I'm going to fix my post now so it doesn't add to the confusion of this thread

 

some guys ride nothing but smoothest pavement and never have their suspension compress. and even when it does rub they still say it "clears" because it doesn't actually damage anything. in reality if you cant use the full travel of the suspension right to the bump stops then you cant really say they clear. staying 0 offset should squeak by with a cmc but +10 would be safer. just not more positive than that because tire will rub the uca.