L3X0TA : 1UZFE + Manual + 4x4

This is ideal!
I am lusting over a v8 manual in my truck for so long...

 

Transmission Wiring:

In order to have a functional speedometer, 4wd ADD actuator, reverse lights, and the ability to start the engine from the ignition, I needed to build my own transmission harness and incorporate it into the engine harness.

There are 3 plugs mounted above the glove box that need addressed to get everything to work correctly. On the 5VZ, most of these wires are loomed in with the main engine wiring harness so I pulled out the wires I needed to make my standalone transmission harness.

IK2, IK3, and IK6 Plugs



IK2 Plug



This is the heaviest lift plug. All of the pins highlighted in green were used and the ones highlighted in red are either obsolete after the swap or not used. These plugs do not have their own pin outs in the FSM (at least not that I've found) so I made my own pin out to help me. This will solve your reverse lights, TC position switches, speed sensor, tach, coolant temp, and oil dummy light along with allowing you to start the engine from the ignition. The engine harness came with its own OBD2 harness so I left those alone on the truck. Note on the coolant temp, this is for the gauge cluster. It has one wire going to the sensor and another going to ground (pin 10 and pin 9, respectively). It is separate from the Engine Coolant Temperature sensor that the ECU uses to adjust A/F, etc.

IK3 Plug

This one is left over from the Park/Neutral Safety Switch from the automatic transmission. I cleaned out all the wires minus one which is used for the clutch safety switch. It goes from pin 8 on IK3->switch->pin 21 on IK2. Realistically, you could jump the two pins together behind the connector to fully get rid of the this plug but doing so is basically like having a fulltime clutch cancel switch engaged. This is the connection that the starter relay is looking for in order to start from the ignition. Up to you. Right now they are jumped on mine and wrapped in the glovebox because I haven't run them to the clutch yet.

IK6 Plug

This is an ADD only plug. Very straightforward. From ADD to this connector minus one wire, which is the ADD limit switch that goes to pin 3 on IK2.



Edit: Updated pinout sheets for AC addition

 

After driving the truck for several months, I noticed the idle was erratic, especially with electric loads switching on and off. If I didn't start my truck with the headlights on, turning them on would drop the idle by 150-200 RPMs. The brake lights on top of that would nearly kill the engine. I also had no way of telling the 1UZ ECU to go into AC Idle Up mode when I would switch the AC on. That would immediately kill the truck so the AC became highway use only. To remedy the idle issues, I decided I would install ALL4SWAP's U707 Signal Converter and ATEMU. So far they have been working great together. I have not changed the ATEMU modes yet but I will play around with them over the next few months.

ATEMU (left) and U707 (right) mounted above the glovebox
I extended each wire and pinned the ends to plug directly into the ECU.



ATEMU
I wasn't sure what logic the wiring harness from LexusV8 was using (if any) to switch the ECU into Park/Drive. In general, I don't know what logic they are using to get rid of the transmission codes resulting in avoiding limp mode. There are a host of other codes related to the transmission that do not put it into limp mode though. Either way, I found a used ATEMU locally on the Marketplace and decided to give it a shot. I will wire in the resistors later and maybe end up with a no CEL VVTi swap. Incredible.


U707
This controls the Electronic Load Sensing in the ECU to keep idle above 600 RPMs with heavy electric loads - primary reason I got it. But I also wired it to control my main radiator fan, tachometer conversion, and AC fan/idle up.


AC Notes
The U707 requires an active low input to trigger the ECU to go into AC idle up mode through the MPX. However, I did not want to lose the ability to turn the AC on from the factory control button which connects to the AC ECU and takes input from the refrigerant pressure switch. This is where it got complicated. The VVTi ECU is smart (at this point, I wish I had gone with the non-VVTi) and will not go into AC idle up mode without all the inputs it's expecting: the compressor lock switch, ambient temp sensor, refrigerant pressure switch, and the AC relay. I directly grounded the ambient temp sensor and pressure switch. And then I ran a wire to the compressor lock plug and grounded the other pin. The 1UZ ECU ACMG pin grounds the relay to send power to the compressor where the 5VZ ACMG wire sends power to the compressor. So I used the 1UZ ACMG pin to power the AC fan relay so that it senses resistance and stays on. And then finally for the U707 input to switch the ECU into AC idle up mode, I connected the AC1 pin from the Tacoma body plug as it sends an active low input when the dash AC button is turned on.

 

Separately, because the engine/adapter plate pushed the transmission back about 2.5", my shifter boot kept pulling up from the shifter surround in 2nd and Reverse. I decided to shorten the boot and add a 3D printed pocket in front of it. I can now swap to a double din radio since I no longer need that little din pocket for my wallet! I am really pleased with how the interior has come along after the swap.

Before (1st gear)


After


Bonus
OEM Subaru seat heater switches, which are stamped Nissan (hmm) that I put into the Chick-Fil-A sauce holder. I 3D printed a panel for the switches and wired them to the aftermarket seat heater pads.