Alignment after new LCAs and Bolts

Hey Tacoma world,
I just replaced my lower control arms and camber bolts on my 2017 off-road with OEM parts. I’ve brought it into two separate Firestone’s since replacement in a week’s time, as I have the lifetime alignment with them. I just wanted to reach out to the community before I booked a third appointment. I’m running 33s and have spider trax spacers on the truck. I have had no rubbing issues whatsoever since I put those on four years ago. Now they can’t seem to get the caster far enough forward so that my tire doesn’t hit the inside of my wheel well on the backhand side. Is this an issue people have had before? Do the parts just need to be “broken in”? Is there reasoning as to why they wouldn’t be able to move further forward without there being negative compensation somewhere else? I’ve had my truck for 5 years, had alignments before, have never had this problem. Ran through all the parts and know that I put them back together correctly. Measurements are from the most recent alignment. Tire pic is from the second to last alignment (they definitely flopped on doing a decent job the first time).
Thanks in advance!

 

What has your previous alignments looked like?

If you’re running OEM UCAs, this alignment seems within reason. You won’t be able to get too much more caster to push your wheels forward

 

My gut instinct is your replacement lower control arms have resulted in a slightly different geometry that was not present before. And unfortunately cannot be corrected.

Not sure if you used the exact same LCAs - like the exact same from Toyota or if you got some aftermarket LCAs. Even if you used LCAs straight from the dealership parts counter, they could just be ever so slightly off spec from what you had before. And I would think this would be even more true for aftermarket LCAs.

Hopefully you kept your LCAs and didn't toss them. If so, one suggestion I might offer is to have new ball joints and bushings pressed in them and re-install them.

Or swap them over from your new set. Which would save you some $$$.

That's a wee bit of a wing-and-a-prayer suggestion, but one that I would myself would try next.

I hope that helps! Best wishes for you!

 

Stock uca's and the Spidertrax aren't helping.
Got any pics of the 'backhand' caster tabs and the ubj/lbj with truck resting on the ground.

 

Tell them it's okay to crank your camber positive (with your setup the truck will drive nicer anyways) they can get alot more positive caster out of your truck but they're trying to keep your camber close to stock specs

Positive camber will lighten your steering wheel a bit, especially with bigger tires. It will make the truck more "independent" on the road, meaning it wouldn't be as determined to wander and follow the tracks in the road from heavy trucks. Positive camber will help your truck stop better as when the truck nose dives from braking, the front wheels will flatten out for max contact with the road. Positive camber is also easier on your ball joints and such.

You'll most likely be able to see this angle on your front wheels but if you don't mind seeing the positive front camber in exchange for a better drive and no rub, tell them you're okay with up to 1.25*+ camber to get your caster number a bit higher. I don't think they'll need more than 0.7* or so but it gives them a big comfort zone.

 

OK, so you did the work yourself - that's great.

Get back under the truck and move the LCA bushings to maximum Caster settings and then take the truck back in for an alignment. Tell them you wish to remain with the maximum Caster and to adjust only the Toe and Camber. Since the Caster will be a "guess setting" on your part they can even out the Caster between the wheels but not generally lessen it. Tell them you are looking to get maximum Caster up to 4 degrees or even more. Not a stock spec, but very regularly done.

Sounds like your past alignments were with knowledgeable technicians and your current techs are not.

It appears you have some aftermarket fender flairs as well, which may impact the rubbing issue.

It would be nice to know what your 33" tire size is and what thickness of spacers you are using, as well as the specs on the rims. They can all affect rubbing.

A Maximum Caster Alignment is where you take the front bushing and adjust it towards the centerline of the vehicle as possible and the rear bushing as far outwards as possible. This pushes the Lower Ball Joint forward and thus moves the tire forward and away from the rear wheel well. This also adds more Caster in the process.

The alignment shop will remove some of the Caster in adjusting the Camber, this is fine but start with the maximum on your own shop floor.