Rust on Frame with A/C drain mod fix

You have to go close to the coast in my area.

 

I ran mine down to where I zip-tied it to the lines close to the transmission coole

You can route it near the warm components and end with a ziptie near the trans cooler lines

 

Figured I’d bump this thread, these are what you need to complete this mod. You’ll need 11-12” of hose. I did not run it through the frame. I removed the flap ran the hose on the outside of the frame and put the flap back on, you only have to peel back the right side.
https://youtu.be/xKxgxBI4k7k?si=lXneUG3a65JGRYTp

 

Good stuff. There’s multiple ways to run it, think I ran it down along the frame and zip tied it around the sub frame/motor mounts and then had it dump out of the bottom crossmember. Though using barbs definitely isn’t a bad idea, one can just get hose that slips over the factory hose, and then a hose clamp to tighten it down. I did that with no issues.

 

Did this little project yesterday.

Easy, simple, cheap.

No rust on the frame at all but thought it won’t hurt to do this.

I used a metal adjustable clamp to attach the extension hose with an inside diameter that fit perfectly over the OEM drain hose.

I didn’t bother to run the hose back to the cat area.

I just ran the short hose between the flap and the frame with the hose end pointed straight down. Shorter and vertical run takes advantage of gravity for faster drain flow.

 

That’s why I just keep it parked, look at it, take it apart, put it back together (sometimes correctly), and wash it and polish it. Maybe when the sun is out and the roads are dry and the street sweeper just made its rounds I’ll take it out!

 

A/C mod is definitely a must have

 

Is this an issue on the 2013 trucks? Only reason I ask is I found a kit they sell to help this but doesn’t show for the 2013 so wasn’t sure if they corrected it?

 

what are your guys rattle can suggestions for under coat touch on frame and under carriage rocker panels.

rust encapsulator type product

I don't want to do a full blown wool wax , oil etc.. application.

 

I didn’t see the need for hose clamps at all. It’s just and open ended hose that literally only drips a tiny amount of water. It’s under no pressure. I used a couple of zip ties to secured it and it’s done.

 

If you mean “touch up” of rusty spots…

Ospho is good stuff. Brush off any loose rust, then apply the Ospho. Let it sit overnight, then wash with water. IIRC, it converts the iron oxide to an iron phosphate. I would still spray some Cosmoline/Wool Wax/Fluid Film over top of it.

 

Has anyone used the toyota AC refresher kit with the drain mod? It looks like you shoot it up the drain for a clean out, curious if I need to take off the extension prior to use.

$41 Toyota AC Refresher KIT

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07XC93LK9?smid=A16OVF05M5A76J

 

OEM hose is pretty short. I’d pull my extension if the instructions said to spray it in the hose, just so it’s not fighting gravity up the longer length.

 

Thats what I was figuring since gravity is undefeated.

 

This is ONLY on the passenger side? There is no drain tube the dumps on the drivers side or anywhere else? Just ONE drain tube total?

 

Yes, only one drain tube on the passenger side. Sticks out of the firewall, about 4 inches long. I just used a piece of heater hose and stuck it over the drain and ran it down and just zip tied it a couple of places. Easy peasy.

 

I've seen both 3/8" and 5/8" hose mentioned, along with the barbs and or clamps, so which is it, or will both work?

 

I can’t see how 3/8 would work. Like I posted, I used a piece of vehicle heater hose and just slipped over the hose coming out of the fire wall and secured it to the frame. I saw no need for clamps. It’s an open ended drain that drips a little bit. There’s no pressure, it might drip a cup a water per day.

 

Maybe the original ID is 3/8" and the OD 5/8"? The one with 3/8" uses a 3/8" barbed fitting to connect the hoses.