Clutch pedal adjustment?

Resurrecting this thread with questions of my own.

I was having clutch problems on my '96 4x4 Xtra-cab and had determined it was likely in the hydraulic system. After putting in fresh fluid and bleeding, and checking a few other things to no avail, I took the plunge and replaced master and slave cylinders. In the process, I checked pedal height and free play, and got them within spec. That did the trick, and clutch feels good now and shifts properly.
This is a photo from another member that is not my truck, but has the same setup. I will be referring to it as I continue...

The next day while noodling around and checking other things under the dash, I noticed that the tab with rubber insert on the back side of the clutch pedal (circled in red above) was not fully compressing the little white plastic plunger (hidden by the bottom of the blue line, but it looks like the one on the clutch start switch circled in green) of the cruise control release switch (circled in blue) when the clutch pedal was all the way out. The cruise control release switch seems to act as the clutch pedal stop on my truck (there is no adjuster bolt as shown in the manual in post #3 above); it is threaded and has a lock nut (on the back side of the bracket in shadow; not visible in this photo) and can go in and out as needed.

Because the clutch pedal tab with rubber insert is not firmly hitting a stop at the end of its travel (again, circled in red), it seems that the pedal travel is being stopped by the master cylinder push rod reaching the end of its travel inside the cylinder (circled in yellow) since there is solid linkage between the clutch pedal and the master cylinder body via the push rod. This doesn't seem like a good idea to me; seems that it would cause stress on the master cylinder that would lead to failure. Am I correct in believing that there should be a solid stop for the clutch pedal that occurs before the master cylinder push rod "bottoms out"? Should I adjust the cruise control release switch body to create that stop (as you might if it were an adjuster bolt such as found on other setups) and relieve strain on the master cylinder? I imagine I could do that and create some slack in the master cylinder push rod play, and re-adjust the free play to keep it (or get it back) in spec after creating the pedal stop point.