Flat bed for my 1Gen

And for what it’s worth, I made mine out of steel and even build a hidden slide out drawer and it is only a little over the stock bed plus bumper weight, not too bad

 

This looks perfect.

 

So the bed is off. I needed access so I can measure and plan the mounting points and the under-tray storage. Removing the tray was quite easy. No rust I can see.

 

Here’s a look at a SET tray that I installed recently on my 2001 Double Cab. Was able to install it in an afternoon and gives you much more storage options while still having a full bed.

 

I looked at all the UTE trays available in North America and SET seems to me to set the gold standard.

Is yours 66 or 72 inches wide and how long is it? Which model did you get? Do you recall what was the height of the front vs center vs rear mounting risers (assuming the short bed has three rows of mounting points). How long and how high (deep) is the drawer? can the side walls be removed or are they only hinged?

I don't understand the weight (490 lbs with the center drawer and the toolboxes for the top 72 model) and why some accessories are so pricey ($900 for the tie downs?).

Thanks for your answers.

 

I agree, SET trays are the best in the North American market. I did look at a few tray companies down under and tried getting quotes but it was too much of a logistical nightmare to get it shipped.

The tray is a 72"Lx 66"W (expedition model) I didn't get the water tank to help save on weight. I don't remember the measurements/dimensions of the risers and rear pull out drawer off the top of my head, I can get them for you when I'm not at work. The sides of the tray do come off the hinge, the only thing holding them on the hinge is a hitch pin clip.

I'm pretty sure the 490lbs is the weight of the spec'd out model, mine is probably a little bit lighter without the water tank and tire carrier, I can say that the tray is definitely heavier than the factor bed. It all changes based on what I'm packing in the boxes too, I'm planning on installing a set of airbags to help with squatting under heavier loads or towing.

I was one of the lucky ones, I was able to secured my build price before they made there announcement of price increases earlier this year in March, I do agree that some of the prices are pretty steep for some things but they have to make money to stay in business...

 

Thanks man. I'd appreciate it if you'd look at the drawer and tell me its size and wall thickness.

The photo above of the mounting points was very helpful. I am taking measurements of my bed and will mock up a mounting system for various sizes, e.g. 60 or 66 wide by 72 or 80 long. Then will model in Fusion 360 in Alu vs steel and estimate the weights and the price (metals are expen$ive these days). I do not need industrial strength and plan to use it for light duty mainly. For flooring I plan to use 6" wide 1" thick Trex decking (or similar) from Home Depot. Will use stake holes for the side walls, not hinges. Also want some other customization for storage, attachments, compressor, airtank, etc. Want to do the drawer, but do not plan to do the underbody side boxes (or at least not initially) as those are difficult to do right. For tail lights I looked at LEDs and a new wiring setup but ultimately got

$71 TAIL LIGHT LAMPS NEW PAIR LH/RH FIT TOYOTA LAND CRUISER 40 SERIES FJ40 FJ45 HJ47

FJ-40 style lights with bulbs and will reuse my existing wiring, but add a few side markers.

Does your setup have side markers? I only see a reflector at the end.

If the weight and cost estimates suggest it's not worth to DIY then will order from SET.

Once again, your setup looks amazing.

 

@koenbro To answer your question earlier, the height of the mounting risers is 5-1/2” from the bottom of the riser to the center of the mounting holes.

For the internal dimensions of the drawer
Length: 49”
Width: 19-11/16”
Height: 5”
Material thickness: 1/8”

Yes, there are side marker lights and reflectors. (but they don’t flash with the turn signal)

This is the breakdown of all the components the I had on my build. The nice thing about the SET trays is that they are modular, they can be pieced together as you go. They use an extruded aluminum T-slot system that all the accessories bolt to. Before you start your build they will call you to confirm everything and help you with any questions you have.

 

Very grateful for the details including the close up photos.

On an unrelated note, does anyone know the name and a source for these connectors for the taillights:

 

@koenbro hope this is helpful

 

It is indeed helpful, and you are a prince among men. Thank you sir! I have ordered a set.

 

Made some progress with the design. Will mostly use material I already have, such as 1/16" and 1/8" plate/sheet Alu and 2x1x1/16" steel tube plus 1020 8020 along the underside long runners.
Will need to buy 2x2x.120 tube for the outer frame and the headache rack, plus drawer sliders plus 8 weldable tie downs (3 on each side and one front and back each). Hope to keep cost and weight down.



The headache rack is incompletely rendered because will need to measure its height once the bed is mounted to make sure it does not rise above the cab. Plus will attach it below to the frame somehow.




Seen from the side:
Planning of making a 48 L x 30 W x 6H drawer.

The proportions of the rear skirt do not yet look right but it will be attached unto the main frame afterwards.


And with the rear skirt removed.


TO DO
1. Attachments between frame mounted transverse pieces and the frame via the lung runner on either side of the drawer
2. Open up the space in front of the drawer, from above to put the seocnd batter, compressor and air tank and some rarely used tools.
3. Make the drawer and all compartments dust and water resistant.
4. Stake holes. Should I make them 1" round or 1" square?
5. Coordinate the fuel filler mount
6. Make fenders
7. Fence/side walls
8. Remote goal: undermount triangular side toolboxes.


Lots of work left.

 

Will not use Trex after all, as it turns out to be quite heavy. Might choose cedar vs pine:




Thanks Grok AI!

 

Yep I went through the same thing you did, ended up using 1/8" 5052 aluminum for the weight savings. If I were to choose again id go with 1/8 6061 for its higher strength with no weight gain.

I got 5052 because I thought Id have leftovers that i'd use to make brackets and such that would need to be bent. Didnt end up with much left.

For tie downs I would really consider 1.5" stake pockets all the way around, I did this and having a full wraparound of tie down points makes securing the load super easy.



Here is how I am going to mount the headche rack and whatver other bs I want to bolt on

 

Your outer frame is steel though so you used a mix of steel and alu? What sizes for tubes ad sheets have you used?


And yeah 1.5" sounds right for the stake holes. Using 2" tube I was thing of milling out the square hole and then welding in a sleeve. Will think about it some more. Or use a surround bar like you show.

Will see how much is the cost of the steel I still need to buy and then rethink an ALL-Alu solution (6061).

Here is the rough estimate of the weight thus far:



Mind you this is before undermount side toolboxes, before a box in the front under the tray (for access from top), and before waterproofing (with a top sheet) the drawer. Very likely end up above 400 lb.

 

Yep. Heres an outline of my materials. Only used alu for the deck and fenders and thats it. Lots of info in my build thread.

Mine is 332 lbs with everything it needs to be street legal.

 

I read your build thread and it definitely is a major inspiration. Well done!

 

Thanks means alot.

I wouldnt be scared of using steel, it'll be 1/2 the price for materials and you can go with thinner wall thicknesses. Tig welding a whole flatbed sounds like it would take weeks.

I am a big fan of using the C channel too. Can have 1/8" thick vs 1/16 thick for box tube and they are the same weight.

 

Any idea on what your going to make the undermount triangular toolboxes out of? I am about ready to tackle this on my build and have been tossing around some ideas. My tray is all aluminum and I'm hyper focused on remaining lightweight. I thought about using an alternative (for me anyway) material like a 1/4" waterproof shower board from Lowe's. It's a fiberglass foam laminate board that can be cut and glued into shape and then fiberglassed over. Another thought was to use 1/4" plywood and again glass it over. This would be the easiest for me with my cabinet making skills. I want to avoid using aluminum; the sheeting is pretty spendy and welding thin stuff is a painfully difficult at my skill level.

One thing you can look into is getting the fenders prefabbed from SET. Saved me a ton of time.

 

I'd look at SendCutSend first to have them make it in sheet aluminum, then silicone seal the welds. Not familiar with the shower board and would not trust 1/4" plywood. I will investigate SendCutSend and post an update.

Second option is buy them in Australia and have them shipped (Ouch$$$ between S&H and tarriffs).

Not sure that SET would sell them to me if I did not buy the tray from them but worth asking. Norweld and maybe some others also have them, worth asking. Finally there are China sellers on ebay.