having codes 302 mainly, however i get 300, and 303 once in a while as well

I had a rough iddle problem at start first. then it started coding 300,303,302 but 302
regularly.
so I changed plugs, they were toast, almost no electrode. so i Changed them, just regular spark plugs same as the ones i took out nippondenso. it no longer idled bad at start, ran well it seemed, untill i drove it and at at an idle and only at idle , it ran great but after a few seconds drops to lower than 700rpm and codes 302. sometimes but rarely it codes 300,303,302.
so i changed coil packs, as its a coil over with seprate coils on each cylinder.
ran better, yet still same codes at same intervals, only when idle. if i keep my foot on the accelerator it wont misfire at all.
so i changed the fuel filter also.......still same
shit, so ive bought some injectors but jesus, is this gonna change it even?
could it be my fuel pressure regulater instead, wtf
There is no coolant loss at all so pretty sure no head gasket problem yet i havent checked compression yet although i think its fine. gonna get a compression checker tommorow but not exactly sure how to test it........do you test each cylinder with plugs in except the one your testing, or with all plugs out?

gonna roll it down a damn hill, lol just kidding, but jeepers this is bologna

 

Take all plugs out, insert the adaptor in the plug hole and crank her over until the needle stops rising, 3 or 4 seconds should do. Release the pressure and repeat in the other cylinders. Any difference in pressure greater than 10% says there is an issue.

Valve clearances were checked?

 

thankyou, im gonna test them tommorow, but im pretty sure there fine. what else could it be besides the injector(s), would the fuel pressure regulator cause this as well and i have new denso injectors handy as well just dont wanna use them if there not needed, there super expensive. it drives fine its just when idling, never misfires if i keep the accelerator pressed to keep the idle at 750/1000 at stops. if im on the freeway or driving continuously with no stops it never misfires. ill report tommorow

can you double check what numbers range of psi i should have. i have listed 178ps is normal and no lower than 127psi.

 

Factory spec for compression is around 210 psi. If you're at any significant altitude or have significant mileage on your truck, expect a good bit less.

Pretty sure somewhere closer to 150 psi is the minimum. The big thing that matters is the variance from one cylinder to another as @Glamisman mentioned above.

 

ok im going to do the compression test, i have a couple questions.
1. i understand to take all the plugs out( not leave them in except the tested cylinder) and check each cylinder with the device one by one by crackinf about 3 to four seconds. thats easy however i have the following questions.
2. should i replace the airbox etc and plug the mass air flow back in, or just test it with those off.
3 should i turn off the fuel or pull the fuse or just leave it normal.


also wanted it to be known, I had no blowby visible on the coils or from the pcv, howver i did change the pcv.

 

2. Just leave the airbox off. Be sure to push the gas pedal down fully while cranking to open the throttle plate and allow the engine to suck in air to compress.

3. Pull the EFI fuse to disable the injectors and fuel pump. Its in the main fuse box under the hood

 

Thanks, all your advice is sure appreciated. will be doing the test tomorrow after i take my daughter to school, as i was also told to bring the engine to operating temp in the manual before performing the procedure. ssheeze, i wouldnt have waited all day for it to cool down, lol
sure sucks though, cause the airbox nuts or the resonator box i mean are very close to the exhaust manifold, lol i waited all day to take stuff apart today and just realized this, ugh. and its like 110 in the day here. oh well at least the drive to my daughter's school will bring it to temp. lol , see if i can find my "hot gloves" , ill let ya all know my finding tomorrow afternoon.
thanks.

 

Any time you disconnect a fuel injection componenet that is on a monitored circuit such as the MAF, it will set a code. If you have a scan tool check for stored and pending codes before you start.

 

thanks man, yeah i have a obdII, no worries. and yeah thats a good tip, as i had those codes when i tested stuff before and had the MAF unplugged and The EFI fuse pulled. definatly would scare someone if they didnt have a OBDII and the code legend.
Im going to clear the computer after im done and I drive again.

 

ok I did the check, this is what happened: it bounces as im cranking, not sure thats normal but it does it same on all cylinders....her are my numbers

cyl 1: 150psi max apx
cyl 2: 60psi max apx
cyl 3: 150psi max apx
cyl 4: 150psi max

all plugs look good except 2 has bit of fuel foul (unburned fuel) (they are brand new plugs i just replaced, old ones were toast

so should i replace injectors or send them back, lol, what do you guys think is up. also i have brand new coils in, should i put my old ones back in until i have this problem fixed or will they be ok.
i sqirted a few drops of oil into number 2, no increase.

 

Don't throw injectors at it. You need to determine where the compression loss is coming from in cylinder 2. How many miles are on this thing?

Is this a 2rz (2.4) or 3rz (2.7)? The 2.7's burn valves pretty often, so you may have a burnt valve or cracked head. And no amount of coils, plugs, wires, or injectors are going to address the misfire with that little compression.

 

mine is a 2.7l (3rz) manual trans 4x4
.
well looks as if my tester is bad, go figure i didn't know how to use it. i just took the top reading as max, yet i was told the gauge should hold the reading till i hit the Schrader valve. my meter never holds. it just goes up and releases immediately. so ill go trade it in and get another. shit............................. ;p)

Im pretty sure it has a bad leaky injector that caused the fuel to wash by the cylinder and destroy the rings on #2 [possibly more damage, fuck.

The truck starts fine runs good for few minutes as normal, then it will drop down to lower than idle if your idling to long.
it will run all day long no misfire if your driving steady and dont come to any lights or your on the freeway( shit i can drive for hours no probs on freeway), or if you hold your foot on the gas just a little to keep it at 1000 rps at at idle and it wont misfire either. but the moment you let it rough idle, misfire code.


i am going to trade the tester in and recheck tomorrow. f and A ugh i can take this shit apart blindfolded ive taken it apart it so many times, god )

(ps. should i use the extension on the tester, i never do, it scares me but seems to be same amount of threads as the plugs not longer) don't see any reason 2 though i get the tube to thread in just fine even though its short threads)

 

frick, i just traded the damn tester, the last one looked brand new, this ones definatly older, lol. both of the testers show it jumping to 150 when you crank it but imediatly drop to 0 with every crank it doesnt hold the reading. it does only jump to 60 on cyl 2.
1,3,4 all jump to 150 but as i said it wont hold the reading, wtf are both testers bad?

 

You cant rent a compression tester at O Reillys.

 

$113 OTC 5605 Deluxe Compression Tester Kit with Carrying Case for Gasoline Engines

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004K2FSXI

I use this OTC tester that I bought from Amazon a couple years back. It's quite pricey, but has a bunch of adapters to fit most any vehicle and is a really high quality tool

 

OP where are you located? Perhaps another member may be able to assist if they're close to you

 

maybe i just got two bad ones in a row at autozone, gues ill take it back and go to oreilly and try thiers, after that , im just gonna sit in my truck and roll both of us off the cliff, lol i think its our time

 

ok guys I got a good tester at oreilly, they gave me a brand new one. it worked. turns out autozones both were fucked.

ok so rundown first. it runs fine as long as you dont idle it wont code. so if you use gas to keep it idling about 1000 it will never code, and on freeway, distance etc. (302 everytime, sometimes 303 and 300)

heres the numbers from my test: they are alarming!!!

cylinder 1: 178psi
cylinder 2: 0 maybe 10 but nothing really
cylinder 3: 158 psi
cylinder 4: 181psi


what ya think guys, burnt valves, i did put oil in cylinder 2 and maybe thats when i got 10psi but really nothing measurable.
i have a apointment at my buddies shop for a leak down etc, hes the best Toyota dude in town, left toyota 20 years ago has his own shit and is my aquantance who gives me advice such as this compression test. etc

Id really like to hear what you guys think, man this is the first thing thats ever went wrong with this truck in 21 years, ugh

and red taco......i live in saint george, utah very bottom west corner, hot as hell and bout 100 miles from vegas. (I 15) corridor bout 5 miles from arizona border and 30 from nevada border.

 

I'd suggest you start planning for either a major DIY engine rebuild, or a junkyard engine swap gamble. Either one will probably require you finding alternative transportation, because fixing this thing over a weekend is going to be quite tough to pull off.

I think the head has to come off first and foremost. Then you'll be able to check head gasket, valves, and look for cracks in the head.

Best case scenario, its just a failing head gasket, and you do a down and dirty rebuild in your garage or driveway. But there will be a lot of "while you're in there" things that make a whole lotta sense to do with the head off (valve seats, valve adjustment, new timing components).

 

sucky since the dam thing runs fine, i might just keep running it, it runs just fine on the freeway, lol and everywere. noi power loss, its just that i know the engines in the junkyard are in worse shape, ugh. but your right i mean shit if your down to the head gasket you best do everything, even the injectors, because if it was the injector that did it by leeking all day around the ring and such, ugh

should i still take it in and have him do a leak down test just to be sure.

im driving my tester back in the damn thing, no code the whole way sure will if i let it idlle below 900 lol

fudge!