Comprehensive 5-lug 2nd gen lowering info.

I highly recommend not using aluminum blocks. If there's any chance of the blocks coming in contact with salt, either via winter road salt or sea salt, the aluminum will literally degrade and dissolve. I was lucky on my previous Taco where I went to replace the aluminum blocks I had on the truck with more substantial steel blocks, only to find that there was almost nothing left of the aluminum blocks when I went to take them off.

 

I don’t live in the Rust Belt!! I’m in Arizona, moving to Southern NM soon plus I have my aluminum parts powder coated. My father was from Ohio and he always said Ohio is a nice place to be from…
And it might help if you did some maintenance to your Taco one in awhile. I.e. washing the undercarriage after you drive through snow and salt. My wife and I got stuck in a big snow storm going over the continental divide. The first thing I did when we got home and unloaded was to hook up a hose to the bottom of the hot water heater and wash the undercarriage thoroughly. Next morning wash out the cinders & rock salt from the garage.
Yes the AZ sun is brutal but it doesn’t rust, it just kills paint…

 

My suggestion of using steel blocks wasn't directed at you specifically, unless you live where salt is an issue, which you apparently don't.

If you've never lived in an area where it snows and road salt is used (versus sand), you might not understand how it's nearly impossible to keep your vehicle clean for months at a time. There can be sub-zero temperatures for weeks-on-end and road salt builds up every time one drives anywhere. Unless you have the luxury of having your own heated garage with the ability to wash your vehicle in it, you can't clean your vehicle for weeks because everything is frozen and most public car washes will be closed.

My aluminum blocks had disintegrated internally because aluminum blocks are hollow inside. It would not make sense to think I'm going to remove the rear axle every few weeks to wash the inside of the blocks verses just buying steel blocks to begin with. I see no benefit to running aluminum blocks other than to save a few dollars, which could end-up being more costly in the end.

 

Perhaps this lowering kit is buried somewhere in the 22 pages of this post, but it looks like there still is a more mild lowering kit available for 2wd Tacomas that resembles the "OS drop kit from TundraRacing.com kit"...
https://www.lceperformance.com/2005-2015-Tacoma-2x4-XRunner-Lowering-Kit-1-5-F-p/2070030.htm



Anyone have this kit? I browsed a few pages into this thread and didn't see any reference to it.

 

It more than resembles the SOS kit, it is that kit. Being that it is no longer available on the SOS site they may not be able to get it but you can call them and see.

 

The kit is the SOS kit! LCE is now selling SOS/Tundra Racing parts.
And I’m using the kit less the silver steel sleeves. But I use Viking shocks, they are aluminum shock body’s so I don’t recommend for owners in the rust belt. Plus you need to use gobs of anti-seize on the treads even in AZ.

 

Happy new year everyone! Any chance anyone is selling their lowered taco in the NC/SC area? Looking to get into one in the near future. Looking for a manual regular cab. Thank you!

 

This kit combined with bilstein 4600 and stock base model springs. Post above says 2” when combined with xrunner spring, just confirming if it will give me 1” or 1.5” drop.

 

Yes, But don’t quote me!
I really think you need to contact Tom to double check but I’m 99% sure you have to use the OEM X-runner Bilstein’s on the front!
The OEM Bil’s front spring perch slides off then you drop the perch’s Tom had made over the top of the shock. The perches also need to be clocked to clear the factory UCA. It drops the front spring/s but it also “Coil Binds” (Google Coil Bind) the stock spring/s causing the spring rate to increase. If you go to the OEM X-runner front spring/s you only get about 1/4” to 3/8” more drop if that!! How do I know? Because I tried this setup. Plus if you go with the OEM X front springs and this kit buy a mouth piece and a kidney belt.
The X springs made my supercharged 2015 Access with a 152 lbs 14g steel cross tool box behind the cab ride stiffer than any other vehicle I have owned! (See link for Tool Box) It’s the heaviest duty tool box you can get! Why I was racing MTB’s and I mounted the front fork to each lid because @ 75mph the wind will buffet then rip a lid off a cheap tool box. I wasn’t about to lose one of my Titanium racing MTB’s like a friend of mine did. An 18 wheeler ran over his bicycle plus the pedal punch a hole in the 18 wheeler polished aluminum 100 gallon fuel tank that was full of fuel. My friend said the truck driver stopped got out with a small baseball bat and started walking towards my friend at a fast pace. My friend was yelled at the driver Sir I have full coverage insurance! Sir I promise I will cover the damage. True story
Also know that approximately 1.5” of drop on the factory UCA’s will put the front end on the edge of staying in spec for the front end alignment. I recommend saving your pennies and buying the aftermarket Upper Control Arms so the alignment can be spot on! I run staggered 19” wheels and 255/45-19 Perelli P7 tires on the front (not cheap) so I make sure my alignment and air pressure is spot on!

*Edit*
My last recommendation is that the QA1 and the Viking shocks are really not that much more price wise than the Factory OEM X-runner Bil’s are. The Vikings will give you adjustability and a superior ride over the factory Bil’s. Just Cry once and enjoy.
I’ve owned so many different cars and trucks from 79 Z28’s all kinds of 4x4 mostly Toyota’s and a POS Jeep, many Nissan Hardbodys, Loaded 5.0L F-150’s, Miatas and my 2nd most favorite was a 78 280Z that I over modified. I must admit I enjoy my little regular cabs as much as any vehicle I have owned. With the suspension mods including the X-runner rear sway-bar, StopTech’s, gears w/ TrueTrec, go faster engine mods, some interior mods w/ the Toyota 86 seats I really enjoy my little Taco’s.

https://www.rki-us.com/productDetails.aspx?cat=2&type=2&series=23&prod=ST56U

 

Just to confirm since you did have this setup, did the kit plus xrunner bilsteins and springs gave you 1.5 or 2” of drop? I looked at rockauto and the bilstein 4600 recommended for base model is the same as the recommendation for the xrunner. Spec wise the xrunner factory bilstein is maybe 1/2” shorter but read that xrunner users uses the same bilstein 4600 replacement. I currently run DJM arms but want another inch, maybe 1.5” lower. I was just gonna use 1” spindle spacers but difficult to find them locally and to have them shipped didnt make sense that the shipping would cost more than the product to have the spacers cut and shipped and local shops would have to special order m16x1.5x70mm grade 10 bolts. I have the SOS kit but afraid that it might give a 2” drop if combined with my current setup which is too low for me since it is my daily. Also do you have part numbers for the viking strut?

 

You can get at least another 2” by flipping the lower ball joint

 

On a 2nd Gen? Now this I got to see‼️ Oh, please do take a few pics and share!

Now I’m not a 100% sure but I *Believe* the 4600 Bil’s have the lower spring perch welded to the body of the shock. Where the factory X Bil’s lower spring perch is removable.
Also if you go back and read post #414 I’m pretty sure it will answer your question/s. Reading & Research can be your friend…

 

I’ve actually seen someone on TW post that hes lowered on flipped ball joints and wrx coilovers with stock arms and claims that hes lowered 4”, by the pic thats posted he looks lower then that.

The bilstein 4600 has the removable spring perch, it does have a welded ring around the lower strut where the perch sits on.

$90 24-185042 Single Front Left B6 4600 Suspension Shock Absorber Fits 2004 2015 Tacoma Pickup Standard Chassis - Consistent Fade Free Performance, Monotube Design

24-185042 and

$89 24-185066 Single Front Right B6 4600 Suspension Shock Absorber Fits 2004 2015 Tacoma Pickup Standard Chassis - Consistent Fade Free Performance, Monotube Design

24-185066 is a replacement strut for both base model 5 lug and xrunner, based on rockauto.

 

On a 2nd. Gen.? Just an FYI 2nd. Gens. we’re produced from

$60 2005-2015 Toyota Tacoma With 4L Right Petrol intake air snorkel kit high performance system compatible kit Replacement black Rotational Molding (2005-2015)

2005-2015.
Now I know that flipping ball joints on a 1st. Gen. is possible but on a 2nd. Gen. that’s news to me!
Guys please check your facts before posting information. Every time I post information it’s because I’ve tried and or done it or I have actually saw it done.

 

Fact checked. It was a user from a fb group, not from TW.

 

Well then give it a try and let us know how it works out!
Because there’s absolutely no mention about the upper A-arm or ball joint/s!
Maybe ask him how many miles does he gets out of a set of tires? I bet not many!

I myself lower the front approx. 2.5” with my DIY front coil-overs and DJM upper control arms. My lower concentric alignment washer is almost dead center of the adjustment. In other words why flip the lower ball joint/s? I’m running 19x8.5 et43 w/ 255/45-19 P7 rubber & 19x9 et45 w/ 275/45-19 P7 rubber. So I can’t rotate tires front to rear. So my alignment has to be spot on @ .2 degree of positive camber. Per Toyota specs. Because when the front suspension travels with unequal A-arm the top of the tire & wheel swings / pulls in at the top.

It’s your truck DO as you please!

 

Just picked up this Tacoma and I want to go lower, but don't want to do a notch.

It seems like I could do X-Runner struts and spindle spacers to get about 1.5" up front? Will these generic 2" lowering blocks work for the rear?

https://www.belltech.com/products/lowering-block-kit-6100/

Does anyone have any examples of a similar drop? 3/4 would be too low for the roads in my part of Canada.

 

This below is about as good as you are going to get. Sounds like the 4600 Bil’s will work for shocks. Back when I installed the kit the only shocks that would work was the Toyota factory X-runner Bil's. The 4600 Bil’s had a welded spring perch. The most difficult part of installing the kit is clocking the lower front spring perch. If it’s not done correctly the upper control arm can hit the front lower spring perch. It’s really not that difficult but is critical.
Also the kit comes with adhesive for the spring perch/s but it’s not necessary as the spring will keep the lower perch in place.

Another way to lower the rear is find a set of rear springs that had the TSB / recall from a 6 lug. (4x4 or Pre-runner) Believe it or not there’s still hundreds of owners who have the older two leaf plus an overload spring/s out there. I found them for free or Ive paid as much as $40 for a set that were in MINT condition. The white & yellow printings were still very visible and absolutely no rust. The ride highs are the same as the newer and stiffer 3 leafs plus the overload spring/s. You just can’t carry as much weight. The older springs ride better in a five lug. With the less arch 6 lug rear leaf springs you can run an 1.5” or 2.0” block. I highly recommend getting the springs. The less lowing block the better!

If you buy the SOS kit Tom will exchange the 3” blocks for shorter 2” blocks and U-bolts.
I know you are thinking WTF is he talking about but the more you read and research you will catch on. It’s just overwhelming at first!

Oh, the Tacoma you have has about the most popular lug nut pattern common called a Ford bolt pattern or 5x114.3 or 5x4.5”. Wheels from Ford, Nissan, Toyota, Honda, Mazda, Mitsubishi, Hyundai, Maserati, Tesla, some older Chrysler & Jeeps and many others will fit! The only 5x114.3 / 5x4.5” that won’t fit is Subaru! The hub center on Suby’s is smaller at 53mm vs the Toyota at 60mm. You can purchase hub rings for wheels w/ larger hub centers from Amazon for about $10 give or take. I highly prefer getting OEM wheels from other manufacturers. Two reasons one they can be found for a reasonable to downright cheap price and they fit better (tuck under the fenders better & easier on the front suspension!) Mustang and 35th anniversary 350Z wheels are plentiful and pretty cheap. The reason I said 350Z, is a lowered Taco cross the intersection in front of me the other day and looked really clean and sweet just lowered and clean. Reminded me of something Chip Foose would have done.

https://sosperformance.com/products/tr1520-15-front-2-rear-lowering-kit-fits-xrunner-2005-2014

 

Thank you for that link dude! I checked the SOS site, but didn't look under the X-Runner section.

I've lowered/modified a few cars, but this is the first truck I'll be lowering so everything's a bit different. We definitely have no shortage of wheels to choose from!