Regular cabs on 35s?

Seems like most of these threads are about 33s, so figured it's worth a try asking my fellow regular cabbers if anyone's running 35s on their truck. If you are, what gears are you running? I have the 4 speed with 4.88 gears (currently on 31s) and I know it would handle 33s like a champ, but I'd really like to put the extra work in for 35s since it's not much more work than what I've already got planned for the truck. On paper I should still have a higher cruising RPM at a given speed than stock, but I'm wondering if anyone has any first-hand experience with 35s on a regular cab, and if it made the truck a little too much of a slug.
Any insight appreciated.

 

Just search tacomas on 35s. Or 2nd gen on 35s.

No need to specify cab type, since that won't have much impact on tire size.

As to your question; it will be much more sluggish on 35 compared to 31, but there are many, many factors.
Only you will know what "too much of a slug" is for you.
It will be different for everyone.

 

Regular cab is more specific than you'd think, due to only being available with the 2.7, yet also being lighter than any other cab configuration. I can't easily compare it to a random 2.7 that would weigh 200-500lbs more or have a different gearbox. Also, mine is the 4spd auto, and the few who do put 35s on these usually put them on a manual with different gears than my 4.88s.

Looking for someone who's actually put 35s on a regular cab and knows how it worked rather than basing my mods on completely different trucks. If I can't though, I'll probably just say screw it and buy/test out the 35s before too much cutting...

 

35’s, 2.7 and auto…it will be a slug. My DCLB with 35’s wasn’t too bad but can definitely tell the tires were there.

 

Just a regular cab on e-rated 33s over here tryna help a fella.

 

Yeah no doubt, question is how big of one I guess. On paper it should equal out to roughly stock, but stock was still slow as turtle sex so I'll have to see where the powerbands are at for highway speeds.

Should really just slap a 4.0 in it though...

 

Tbh I might just suck it up and run a set of 33s as well and see how they do. I did see one guy with a solid axle swapped 2.7 5spd who gets away with 40s though, so I have hope for the big kahunas.

 

From 31s to 35s is a big jump.
You could always step up to 5.29:1 gears... (the ultimate luck here would be to find someone near you that will trade you a pair of 5.29 diffs for your 4.88 diffs).

 

Didn’t realize you had 4.88 gears, never mind you’ll be fine. That’s what I’m running on my auto V6.

 

Ah alright cool, so kind of sounds like it should even out to a fairly similar difference to a stock 2.7 vs 4.0 then. Might still try out 33s first since that seems a bit more sane than going from 31-35s, but that's promising. How's yours compare to stock gearing at cruising speeds, if you remember?

Also, Im planning to get a wrecked truck with the 4.0L/auto to use as a swap mule when this motor dies (if I don't first), so good to hear that 4.88s play nice with that config as well. Heard of v6 guys running 5.29s because of different tranny ratios but I don't like the idea of a smaller pinion lol.

 

@tacobell007 is doing the same thing if I remember correctly

 

I was considering just doing 5.29s off the bat when I did these diffs a few months ago, but I was worried about their strength when crawling, especially with the big tires. They'd definitely be better on the commutes, but the 4.88s would be stronger and definitely wouldn't leave anything to be desired on the trails torque-wise.

Maybe I can find someone willing to trade engines instead..

 

Hell yeah, I'll have to shoot him a message, thanks for that. Local to NE too, might have to get a convoy going at some point lol

 

5.29s and 35s on a 4cyl manual is the way to go. After my regear with ARB front locker and a Detriot rear locker, I got 20mpg loaded down on 35s coming back from Western Maine. All the research I did with the gears for manual trucks, 5.29 is a little over geared for 35s and 4.88 is a bit under geared for 35s. 5.29 is also a bit under geared for 37s and 5.29s. Drove on stock 4.10s and 35s for a few years and kinda fucked up my 2nd gear synchro... also make sure to get a speedometer calibrator.

I also have an OG LCE equal length header and aFe drop in filters.

https://youtu.be/L7vEOgMRnQY?si=2nQN6CXns5gt1_vv

https://youtu.be/rqjUk3jQ8Mc?si=msZ5CxB8YvwVzvYf

 

Yessir that's the current plan

 

Oh nice, awesome truck bro! After doing some calculating for rpms on my usual highway speeds, I'm thinking I'll just go in the middle and get some 34" open countries when my 31s go bald. The 4.88s and 35s would have me at slightly higher rpm than the stock tires/gears, but considering that it was geared pretty low at that point anyway, I don't think I'll wanna go full 35s until I can figure out how to add some power.

Speaking of, how do you like the LCE header? I've heard it makes the torque curve come on sooner, but not sure if that would be enough to compensate for slightly inadequate gearing. I'm also gonna be adding a higher flow filter as a byproduct of making a cowl intake relocation (hate snorkels). If I can find a good way to tune my transmission (a340) I'd just say screw it and do the new LCE SC kit, but at that point I'm halfway to the price of a v6 swap.

 

Thanks! It's on 37s now lol, but blown head gasket. I think 70 in 5th I was at like 2800 rpm but could be wrong. I like the header, seemed to help put some power back but the truck already had a blown head gasket, I just didn't know it yet. I have a 4cyl s/c install kit minus a belt but my buddy is suppose to be buying it back from me