DIY: Full Flush for Automatic Transmission

Micbt25 · Oct 29, 2024

SR-71A said: ↑

An OBDII reader that will read the pan temp is really the way to go. Takes out all the guess work.

But what is your ambient temp outside? If its cold out, it can take a very long time to warm up.
Click to expand...

The OBDII reader is the most convenient way to go. If I do a trans fluid change in the winter, I’ll do a trip around the block, to get the temp up so I don’t have to wait forever for it to heat up.

SOSHeloPilot · Dec 17, 2024

mountain lion[OP] initial post: ↑

I did a full flush on my automatic transmission (06 V6 TRD Sport 2wd without towing package) today [45.1k miles]. I haven't seen any detailed DIY write up's on the process so here it goes (feel free to make sticky):

Overall it's very easy to do and not much more complicated than the standard ~3qt drain/fill. The process if you have the tow package is essentially the same, except your ATF cooling lines will be going to a small oil cooler vs going to the radiator. If you have a 4x4, the transmissions will look different than my pictures, but this may still help to guide you through the process.

Outside of having access to a flush machine, this is the next best thing – and free except fluid costs. A very small amount of original fluid does get mixed in, but it’s negligible. Without dropping the pan and attaching a special machine to the actual ATF pump, this works just as well as a standard flush machine. There is a metal screen (not a true filter) in the pan, but from everything posted prior, it’s not necessary to drop the pan and clean it this early – 100k miles or longer is fine.

*Supplies needed:
4.0L V6 w/ Automatic Transmission
1. 13+ quarts of Toyota WS ATF fluid (Amsoil ATL or RedLine D6 are also compatible and fine to use [I bought 15 and used 14 quarts of Amsoil ATL])
2. 2 crush washers from dealer (part #:

$10 35178-30010

35178-30010 ) (you can probably get away with reusing the originals, but they're only $2 new)
3. 5mm hex socket, 14mm socket, 12mm socket, 24mm socket and ratchet
4. Gear lube pump
5. Graduated bucket + milk jug (or the like) to collect old fluid
6. 16ga or thinner wire
7. Torque wrench
8. Pliers
9. Nitril/latex gloves
10. Plenty of paper towels
.
...^^^... Great DIY info ...

**Service Specs:

A750E/F Automatic Transmission Dry Fill = 10.9 liter / 11.5 US qts Toyota ATF WS
Drain plug torque: 28 N*m (21 ft.*lbf)
Overflow plug torque: 20 N*m (15 ft.*lbf)
Refill plug torque: 39 N*m (29 ft.*lbf)

***Service (drain) the fluid below 86 *F (i.e. cold)

Step 1: Loosen the fill plug (24mm - WS is stamped in the middle of it) on passenger side of transmission near the drive shaft, you can remove it or leave it in finger tight for now. The rubber o-ring can be reused here - take care not to damage it.

Step 2: Remove the drain plug (14mm) on the bottom of the transmission pan and be prepared to catch any fluid that comes out w/ your graduated bucket. Allow all fluid to come out, if your fluid is cold you should get about 3 quarts. You can rock the truck once it stops draining and get quite a bit more out, but this isn't necessary. Once the fluid has stopped draining, replace the 14mm plug w/ the new crush washer and tighten with torque wrench to 21 ft.*lb.

At this point you've drained about 3 qts, but take note of the precise amount you get.

Step 3: Remove the fill plug you loosened earlier - it's time to add an equal amount of new fluid that was removed from the drain plug. Route your oil pump hose into the fill hole and secure it. Pump in the proper amount. I added 3 qts. Once finished, remove the pump hose from the fill plug, you can leave the fill plug bolt out.

Step 4: Remove your skid plate if you have one. There are 4 bolts (12mm socket) securing it. This makes access for the next step substantially easier and will save you time.

Step 5: Locate the two ATF cooler lines on the passenger side of the transmission. You will see two lines close together running towards the front of the truck. The top line is the oil cooler outlet tube (fluid returns to the transmission in this line) and the bottom line is the oil cooler inlet tube (oil is pumped out of the transmission to the radiator or tow pkg cooler). You want the outlet tube (red) - trace this line the front of the truck to the point where the metal piping ends and the rubber hose is connected with a tube clamp. You’ll see 2 metal lines at the front of the truck just under the radiator and behind the frame. The top/forward most line is your return/outlet line. It eventually ends/connects to the bottom of your radiator or to your cooler. Disconnect the passenger side rubber hose (where red arrow is). The driver's side goes to the radiator(don't disconnect). Only a few drops came out when I disconnected it, so don't expect it to pour out and make a mess.

Loosen and slide this clamp down to free the connection between the hose and the piping. I needed to use pliers to *carefully* pull the hose off as it was stuck on there pretty good). Attach the 3/8 clear tubing to the metal pipe at the connection you just removed. You may need stretch the tubing out some on the end to get it on the metal pipe easier. once firmly attached, you can route the clear tube into your bucket (or use a clear jug with quart marks lined off - I opted to use this so I could see it filling easier).

Step 6: With the tube routed into your bucket, you're ready to start the engine and allow the fluid to pump out into the bucket. It pumps out at about 1 qt every 7 seconds. I did this by myself, but had enough time to start the engine, get out and watch it fill. Do NOT rev the engine, just let it idle. I turned the engine off once ~2.5 qts had pumped out. Be sure not to allow more than 2-3 quarts to come out, you don't want the internal pump to run dry. You can also shift from Park through all the gears if you wish, though I'm not sure if it makes a difference. I did this once for the heck of it.

At this point you've flushed out over half the old fluid (~3 qts from the drain pan + another ~2.5 qts from cooler/rad lines). This will be your original fluid and should give you an idea of how dirty it is.

Step 7: Time to add more new fluid - reconnect your oil pumper to the fill hole and add in approximately what you removed in the previous step. Once the new fluid has been added, remove the pump hose again from the fill hole. Dump out the old fluid in your bucket/jug into a waste container or the empty qt. containers. It's time to repeat step 6.

You will do these two steps several times to your liking. I would recommend repeating these steps until you've added at least 9 qts (not including the original 3 from the pan [total 12]) - although you'll notice by the time you've done step 6 twice, the fluid coming out is considerably cleaner and much redder.

You could probably get away with only adding the original 3 qts and doing the steps above with 7-8 qts (total of 10-11 new qts) to save some $$ on fluid. I ended up using 14 qts total, and the last 2 qts that came out almost looked like new fluid...so a little bit of a waste and probably overkill w/ this much.

Be sure to save at least 1 quart of new fluid in case you need to add more during the check level process.

Step 8: Once you've flushed ~12 quarts or the amount of your satisfaction, remove the 3/8 clear tubing from the ATF cooler line. A few drops will come out of the metal end, but not much, so don't worry about it gushing out. Reconnect the original rubber oil cooler outlet line to the metal piping going back to the transmission and put the tube clamp back in place. Assure that the line is snug and firmly attached. Clean up any ATF that may have spilled.

Step 9: You might want to add about 1/3 qt extra when you're all finished so that you don't have to do the fluid check level more than once - just let the extra drain out to the right level. Replace the fill plug bolt to hand tight - you'll torque it down later, or if you're forgetful you can do it now (29 ft.*lb).

Step 10: At this point you should have approximately the correct amount of fluid in the AT and everything is reconnected. It's time to perform the fluid level check to ensure that the right amount of fluid is in the transmission. I will briefly go over this as a great write up has already been done by ForTech (http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd-gen-tacomas/63851-how-drain-refill-automatic-transmission.html ). Do NOT use an IR thermometer - the pan reading won't be anywhere close to the internal temperature.

Cliffs notes version, but I highly suggest reading ForTech's post:

Make sure you're parked on level ground,
Start truck, shift through all gears several times to get new fluid moved all around.
Using a small wire, jump pins 4 and 13 on the ODBII port.
Start the truck, you should see a lot of your dash lights flashing.
From park, put truck in neutral for 2-3 seconds
Shift down to drive for ~1 second, enough for it to barely engage the gear then go back to neutral then back to drive after ~1 second. (repeat 3 times, total of 6 shifts).
Once back in neutral after 6th shift, you should see AT Temp in red light up for 2 seconds on the Tach face plate.
Shift back to park, you should see the AT temp light again for 2 seconds then go off. If you don't see this, you've messed up and need to do it again.
Let the truck idle until the AT temp light stays on. It's close when it starts flickering. It may take up to 20 minutes of idling to get to temp, especially in colder environments.

Step 11: With the AT Temp light on and the truck still idling, remove the check plug(5mm hex). Be mindful of the Y-pipe / exhaust as it's hot and you will burn yourself if more than lightly touched. Also have your catch bucket ready. Hopefully you've added a little more than what's needed and fluid will come out. Allow fluid to drain until it's a light/thin trickle. Add your new crush washer to the bolt and replace the bolt torquing to spec (15 ft.*lb). Turn the engine the off.

Step 12: If you had a good bit of fluid come out and are now at the proper level, torque down the refill plug(24mm / 29 ft.*lb) if you did not do so in step 9. If you did not add enough fluid - ie nothing came out - replace the check bolt, turn off the engine and then add 1/3 to 1/2 qt more new fluid into the fill plug. Go through the steps in Step 10 to the get the AT Temp sense mode back on and check the fluid again as described in step 11.

Step 13: Replace your skid plate if you removed it from step 4.

Step 14: Double check all your connections and bolts - Clean up any spilled fluid on truck.

That's it.

A few comparative pictures:
Original oil(left) / Brand new(right) [color is probably no indicator of usable life]

After 12 fresh quarts were flushed through (left)/ Brand new (right) [12qt sample was only slightly darker, but not much].

I will be sending a sample I took from the drain pan when it was hot to Blackstone to see what condition the oil was in after 45k miles. Should be a week or so and I'll append the results to affirm whether or not this early of a flush really needs to be done or not. Regardless - early/preventative maintenance is worth it to me.
Click to expand...

mountain lion[OP] initial post: ↑

I did a full flush on my automatic transmission (06 V6 TRD Sport 2wd without towing package) today [45.1k miles]. I haven't seen any detailed DIY write up's on the process so here it goes (feel free to make sticky):

Overall it's very easy to do and not much more complicated than the standard ~3qt drain/fill. The process if you have the tow package is essentially the same, except your ATF cooling lines will be going to a small oil cooler vs going to the radiator. If you have a 4x4, the transmissions will look different than my pictures, but this may still help to guide you through the process.

Outside of having access to a flush machine, this is the next best thing – and free except fluid costs. A very small amount of original fluid does get mixed in, but it’s negligible. Without dropping the pan and attaching a special machine to the actual ATF pump, this works just as well as a standard flush machine. There is a metal screen (not a true filter) in the pan, but from everything posted prior, it’s not necessary to drop the pan and clean it this early – 100k miles or longer is fine.

*Supplies needed:
4.0L V6 w/ Automatic Transmission
1. 13+ quarts of Toyota WS ATF fluid (Amsoil ATL or RedLine D6 are also compatible and fine to use [I bought 15 and used 14 quarts of Amsoil ATL])
2. 2 crush washers from dealer (part #:

$10 35178-30010

35178-30010 ) (you can probably get away with reusing the originals, but they're only $2 new)
3. 5mm hex socket, 14mm socket, 12mm socket, 24mm socket and ratchet
4. Gear lube pump
5. Graduated bucket + milk jug (or the like) to collect old fluid
6. 16ga or thinner wire
7. Torque wrench
8. Pliers
9. Nitril/latex gloves
10. Plenty of paper towels

**Service Specs:

A750E/F Automatic Transmission Dry Fill = 10.9 liter / 11.5 US qts Toyota ATF WS
Drain plug torque: 28 N*m (21 ft.*lbf)
Overflow plug torque: 20 N*m (15 ft.*lbf)
Refill plug torque: 39 N*m (29 ft.*lbf)

***Service (drain) the fluid below 86 *F (i.e. cold)

Step 1: Loosen the fill plug (24mm - WS is stamped in the middle of it) on passenger side of transmission near the drive shaft, you can remove it or leave it in finger tight for now. The rubber o-ring can be reused here - take care not to damage it.

Step 2: Remove the drain plug (14mm) on the bottom of the transmission pan and be prepared to catch any fluid that comes out w/ your graduated bucket. Allow all fluid to come out, if your fluid is cold you should get about 3 quarts. You can rock the truck once it stops draining and get quite a bit more out, but this isn't necessary. Once the fluid has stopped draining, replace the 14mm plug w/ the new crush washer and tighten with torque wrench to 21 ft.*lb.

At this point you've drained about 3 qts, but take note of the precise amount you get.

Step 3: Remove the fill plug you loosened earlier - it's time to add an equal amount of new fluid that was removed from the drain plug. Route your oil pump hose into the fill hole and secure it. Pump in the proper amount. I added 3 qts. Once finished, remove the pump hose from the fill plug, you can leave the fill plug bolt out.

Step 4: Remove your skid plate if you have one. There are 4 bolts (12mm socket) securing it. This makes access for the next step substantially easier and will save you time.

Step 5: Locate the two ATF cooler lines on the passenger side of the transmission. You will see two lines close together running towards the front of the truck. The top line is the oil cooler outlet tube (fluid returns to the transmission in this line) and the bottom line is the oil cooler inlet tube (oil is pumped out of the transmission to the radiator or tow pkg cooler). You want the outlet tube (red) - trace this line the front of the truck to the point where the metal piping ends and the rubber hose is connected with a tube clamp. You’ll see 2 metal lines at the front of the truck just under the radiator and behind the frame. The top/forward most line is your return/outlet line. It eventually ends/connects to the bottom of your radiator or to your cooler. Disconnect the passenger side rubber hose (where red arrow is). The driver's side goes to the radiator(don't disconnect). Only a few drops came out when I disconnected it, so don't expect it to pour out and make a mess.

Loosen and slide this clamp down to free the connection between the hose and the piping. I needed to use pliers to *carefully* pull the hose off as it was stuck on there pretty good). Attach the 3/8 clear tubing to the metal pipe at the connection you just removed. You may need stretch the tubing out some on the end to get it on the metal pipe easier. once firmly attached, you can route the clear tube into your bucket (or use a clear jug with quart marks lined off - I opted to use this so I could see it filling easier).

Step 6: With the tube routed into your bucket, you're ready to start the engine and allow the fluid to pump out into the bucket. It pumps out at about 1 qt every 7 seconds. I did this by myself, but had enough time to start the engine, get out and watch it fill. Do NOT rev the engine, just let it idle. I turned the engine off once ~2.5 qts had pumped out. Be sure not to allow more than 2-3 quarts to come out, you don't want the internal pump to run dry. You can also shift from Park through all the gears if you wish, though I'm not sure if it makes a difference. I did this once for the heck of it.

At this point you've flushed out over half the old fluid (~3 qts from the drain pan + another ~2.5 qts from cooler/rad lines). This will be your original fluid and should give you an idea of how dirty it is.

Step 7: Time to add more new fluid - reconnect your oil pumper to the fill hole and add in approximately what you removed in the previous step. Once the new fluid has been added, remove the pump hose again from the fill hole. Dump out the old fluid in your bucket/jug into a waste container or the empty qt. containers. It's time to repeat step 6.

You will do these two steps several times to your liking. I would recommend repeating these steps until you've added at least 9 qts (not including the original 3 from the pan [total 12]) - although you'll notice by the time you've done step 6 twice, the fluid coming out is considerably cleaner and much redder.

You could probably get away with only adding the original 3 qts and doing the steps above with 7-8 qts (total of 10-11 new qts) to save some $$ on fluid. I ended up using 14 qts total, and the last 2 qts that came out almost looked like new fluid...so a little bit of a waste and probably overkill w/ this much.

Be sure to save at least 1 quart of new fluid in case you need to add more during the check level process.

Step 8: Once you've flushed ~12 quarts or the amount of your satisfaction, remove the 3/8 clear tubing from the ATF cooler line. A few drops will come out of the metal end, but not much, so don't worry about it gushing out. Reconnect the original rubber oil cooler outlet line to the metal piping going back to the transmission and put the tube clamp back in place. Assure that the line is snug and firmly attached. Clean up any ATF that may have spilled.

Step 9: You might want to add about 1/3 qt extra when you're all finished so that you don't have to do the fluid check level more than once - just let the extra drain out to the right level. Replace the fill plug bolt to hand tight - you'll torque it down later, or if you're forgetful you can do it now (29 ft.*lb).

Step 10: At this point you should have approximately the correct amount of fluid in the AT and everything is reconnected. It's time to perform the fluid level check to ensure that the right amount of fluid is in the transmission. I will briefly go over this as a great write up has already been done by ForTech (http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd-gen-tacomas/63851-how-drain-refill-automatic-transmission.html ). Do NOT use an IR thermometer - the pan reading won't be anywhere close to the internal temperature.

Cliffs notes version, but I highly suggest reading ForTech's post:

Make sure you're parked on level ground,
Start truck, shift through all gears several times to get new fluid moved all around.
Using a small wire, jump pins 4 and 13 on the ODBII port.
Start the truck, you should see a lot of your dash lights flashing.
From park, put truck in neutral for 2-3 seconds
Shift down to drive for ~1 second, enough for it to barely engage the gear then go back to neutral then back to drive after ~1 second. (repeat 3 times, total of 6 shifts).
Once back in neutral after 6th shift, you should see AT Temp in red light up for 2 seconds on the Tach face plate.
Shift back to park, you should see the AT temp light again for 2 seconds then go off. If you don't see this, you've messed up and need to do it again.
Let the truck idle until the AT temp light stays on. It's close when it starts flickering. It may take up to 20 minutes of idling to get to temp, especially in colder environments.

Step 11: With the AT Temp light on and the truck still idling, remove the check plug(5mm hex). Be mindful of the Y-pipe / exhaust as it's hot and you will burn yourself if more than lightly touched. Also have your catch bucket ready. Hopefully you've added a little more than what's needed and fluid will come out. Allow fluid to drain until it's a light/thin trickle. Add your new crush washer to the bolt and replace the bolt torquing to spec (15 ft.*lb). Turn the engine the off.

Step 12: If you had a good bit of fluid come out and are now at the proper level, torque down the refill plug(24mm / 29 ft.*lb) if you did not do so in step 9. If you did not add enough fluid - ie nothing came out - replace the check bolt, turn off the engine and then add 1/3 to 1/2 qt more new fluid into the fill plug. Go through the steps in Step 10 to the get the AT Temp sense mode back on and check the fluid again as described in step 11.

Step 13: Replace your skid plate if you removed it from step 4.

Step 14: Double check all your connections and bolts - Clean up any spilled fluid on truck.

That's it.

A few comparative pictures:
Original oil(left) / Brand new(right) [color is probably no indicator of usable life]

After 12 fresh quarts were flushed through (left)/ Brand new (right) [12qt sample was only slightly darker, but not much].

I will be sending a sample I took from the drain pan when it was hot to Blackstone to see what condition the oil was in after 45k miles. Should be a week or so and I'll append the results to affirm whether or not this early of a flush really needs to be done or not. Regardless - early/preventative maintenance is worth it to me.
Click to expand...

.
...^^^... Great DIY info ...
.

ieizxxnsaeomeostfd · Jan 15, 2025

Read through a decent chunk of the thread but not all 72 pages so I apologize if this has already been discussed.

Couldn't you connect two hoses to the AT cooler when doing this? One is already dumping the old fluid so curious if you connected the other hose if it could suck new fluid in.

Chuy · Jan 15, 2025

No, cause the transmission has a breather valve thingy. You can use your own pump.

blnewt · Feb 9, 2025

Just did this on my 2015 Toyota Tacoma V6 4x4 w/ tow pkg.
Thanks to all that have contributed to this awesome DIY thread. I went through a bunch of info and picked out what I though would work best for my Toyota.
Mine has 190k miles, just bought it and had a stellar Carfax w/ dealer visits every 5k miles, only thing not addressed was any transmission service.

Since it had so many miles without any ATF service I wanted to do a pan drop, new AT filter, and full flush. I used 12qts Maxlife, WIX filter and gasket set, a 4ft 3/8" ID tube for ATF cooler drain and 5ft. 1/2" ID 5/8" OD tubing for ATF gravity fill.

I must say DO NOT use sprayers, pumps and any other method to refill ATF into your transmission, just use the funnel in the engine bay~gravity fed into your transmission is effortless, no drips, and makes it a pleasure to refill your ATF. Thanks so much to all that suggested this method, I will be using this for a couple other vehicles I own that need ATF service. Here's a pic of the long transmission funnel, there was plenty of hose to pull the funnel up and easily hold it and fill it, able to add 2 qts each time in 20 seconds or less.

Here's the dirty pan and clean pan, just clean the magnets & pan, and reinsert the magnets in the 4 recessed squares in the pan bottom.

Install the new filter, MAKE SURE the o-ring is on there (and the old o-ring is removed if still inside the AT housing). Clean the mounting area for the gasket on the pan and the transmission mating surface. Install the bolts into the pan and gasket just a couple threads in to keep the gasket aligned and makes it much easier to set the pan. Then install the pan snugging the bolts along the way, go around and final set them to 15 INCH lbs.

Once pan is installed you replace the exact amount of ATF that you removed when draining and dropping the pan, I drained out about 4.5 qts (about a qt. more than those that didn't drop the pan)

If you have the tow pkg it's simple, just remove grill (2 10mm bolts and 4 push clips) and remove lower cooler hose. Connect a 4 ft 3/8" ID hose to the hose barb and clip it to your bucket.

Once you replace the amount you drained from the pan drop you then start the truck and drain 2 to 2.5 qts into the bucket, be sure to cover the bucket w/ a towel or plastic as it will get air in the line and make a violent splash when it starts to flow out the line (it will do it each time).

Replace the amount you drained (will be at 6.5-7qts total so far), then drain another 2qts, replace w/ 2 qts (be at 8.5-9qts), do 1 more cycle, be sure to add an extra 1/2 qt this time so you have excess when doing the temperature fill test. I used the rest of my last jug to get a full 12 qts. my total ATF drained out was 11.5 qts so that extra 1/2 qt worked out perfect.

Perform the ATF final fluid level test and drain out the test port until it trickles while the engine is running at proper ATF temp.

Took about 2.5 hrs start to finish fwiw, and ATF was very red and clean at the last drain-out.

Chuy · Feb 9, 2025

For you ATF gravity-fed DIYer’s, this adapter barb for the transmission ATF inlet may interest you. It is pricey but worth it to as it also fits other Toyota models. I’ve used it on the following: 20 RAV4, 15 NX200T, 07 ES350, and my Taco, of course. Have not confirmed, but pretty sure it will fit wife’s 18 RX350.

$13 EVIL ENERGY M18*1.5mm Male to 5/8" Hose Barb Fuel Oil Pump Inlet Straight Fitting Barb Fitting Bare with Aluminium Washer

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CQ5341GT

Not a golfer · Aug 16, 2025

Performed this service adding a pan drop/clean and filter/strainer replacement at 116000 KMs.
My trans had previous drain and fill by dealer at 61000 KMs.
Old fluid was cloudy and smelt fine compared to new fluid.
Purchased Toyota Fluid and Wix 58136 kit.
Really like the Wix kit.
Filter/strainer felt well built c/w O ring. Matched the OEM in size/appearance and fit like a glove.
Pan gasket was rubber with holes slightly smaller than bolts allowing each to stay in place for install.
Filled trans with same amount of fluid as removed adding 500 MLs using 4ft of tubing and funnel method (for me more comfortable compared to garage floor).
Had help from my son to flush fluid (two people does help with this part).
I used a total of 11 litres to flush bought 12.
Truck went into temp mode easy using wire method (took about 15 mins for light to show).
Checked and adjusted level to a trickle.
The 500 MLs more fluid worked perfect for me to check level.
All went well.

UNTIL the rocket scientist picked up the parts bag when cleaning up only to see the one crush washer I FORGOT to replace on drain plug AFTER finishing everything.

I had words with myself and called it a day.
In the morning checked for a leak, no drip just seepage showed on a paper towel.
So drained fluid and installed new crush washer, torqued. Refilled fluid, checked and adjusted level again. Next morning all dry.

So thankful for these instructions.

blnewt · Aug 16, 2025

Not a golfer said: ↑

Performed this service adding a pan drop/clean and filter/strainer replacement at 116000 KMs.
My trans had previous drain and fill by dealer at 61000 KMs.
Old fluid was cloudy and smelt fine compared to new fluid.
Purchased Toyota Fluid and Wix 58136 kit.
Really like the Wix kit.
Filter/strainer felt well built c/w O ring. Matched the OEM in size/appearance and fit like a glove.
Pan gasket was rubber with holes slightly smaller than bolts allowing each to stay in place for install.
Filled trans with same amount of fluid as removed adding 500 MLs using 4ft of tubing and funnel method (for me more comfortable compared to garage floor).
Had help from my son to flush fluid (two people does help with this part).
I used a total of 11 litres to flush bought 12.
Truck went into temp mode easy using wire method (took about 15 mins for light to show).
Checked and adjusted level to a trickle.
The 500 MLs more fluid worked perfect for me to check level.
All went well.

UNTIL the rocket scientist picked up the parts bag when cleaning up only to see the one crush washer I FORGOT to replace on drain plug AFTER finishing everything.

I had words with myself and called it a day.
In the morning checked for a leak, no drip just seepage showed on a paper towel.
So drained fluid and installed new crush washer, torqued. Refilled fluid, checked and adjusted level again. Next morning all dry.

So thankful for these instructions.
Click to expand...

I too have had words with myself on numerous DIY car projects, and some of the words I came up with on the fly.

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