4.0L oil pan bolts disintegration.

Anyone else have some of their oil pan mounting bolts corrode into oblivion? I have a small leak and the three closest to the drivers side literally have nothing left other than the thickness of the bolt shaft. No shape that even resembles the bolt head.

Pan needs to be replaced too so just cut them off, then drill and tap?

 

You must live in the Rust Belt. If you're lucky, after you get the pan off, there may be enough left to get a small vise grip on it to turn it out.

 

If there's enough material protruding from the flange, you can try an extractor socket. Otherwise drill it out with a LH drill bit - it's what I did with a transmission pan bolt broken flush on my father's Subaru; the threads were good enough to re-use after chasing. Didn't need to tap to larger size.

 

There’s a specific tool called vampliers. I believe they were the first, now others make something similar. They aren’t cheap but they work and if you have the need you’ll be grateful they’re in your toolbox.

 

^Vampliers won't do jack in this situation lol, or with the bolt head fully intact for that matter.

 

We want pictures. This has got to be pretty unusual.

 

Bill, a guy I work with has a Tacoma from the rust belt. Frame was replaced but of course everything else is jacked up. He had to replace his oil pan gasket and had the same issue I think several of his bolts broke.

 

Not doubting. But breaking is one thing, heads being gone is another. Doesn't anyone look at what they are working on when even doing an oil change?

 

my skid plate bolts recently broke off, they were actually black on the head so didn’t appear rusty, but they were.

the first one I take full blame for I used my 3/8 stubby Milwaukee and it snapped it right off. Then the next one I used a 8 inch 3/8 ratchet. When I tell you I used about 20% strength and it snapped the head off that is probably and exaggeration. I feel like I barely put anything on it.

then I broke another the same way. Only one came out clean.

then I followed up by breaking 2 Icon extractors in the holes so as of today I have no skid plate, and even less confidence working on my truck out of fear of rusty bolts. Crazy thing is my truck doesn’t even look rusty.

 

I replaced all the small bolts in my bed with stainless. The mounting bolts I pulled, cleaned. Painted an slathered the threads and crush tubes with grease. Because salty kayaks and high humidity.

Maybe SS is needed to mount your skid once you have the holes dressed up.

 

no longer in a rust area. I’m in TN now but I will for sure replace them with something better. Still working on figuring out how I’ll get the broken extractors out without the ability to weld.

 

this...

 

If its not too late & you did more harm than good, this is your only shot....
without a welder...
hammer the tightest one you can onto what is left of the head....

$52 DPTOOL 22 Piece Bolt Nut Extractor Set, 1/2" and 3/8" Drive Impact Lug Nut Remover Socket Tool, Wheel Lock Removal Kit for Extracting Damaged, Stripped Frozen Nuts & Screws Twist Socket Set

https://www.amazon.com/DPTOOL-Extra...&sr=1-33-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9idGY

 

sounds like youre in a pickle, maybe you should stop before making matters worse & get professional help.
Cant drill into extractors...
Dont want to damage the block...
If you didnt pulverize what's left, try these...

Lots of similar kits on Amazon, just make sure they have a large variation of the small sizes...

$52 DPTOOL 22 Piece Bolt Nut Extractor Set, 1/2" and 3/8" Drive Impact Lug Nut Remover Socket Tool, Wheel Lock Removal Kit for Extracting Damaged, Stripped Frozen Nuts & Screws Twist Socket Set

https://www.amazon.com/DPTOOL-Extra...&sr=1-33-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9idGY

 

Mine are skid plate blots. They are broke flush with the frame. No using anything like this unfortunately. Could to have to get the extractor out some how and maybe use some map gas for heat and some kroil and hope for the best.

 

I meant to quote the OP.
Only shot you have is to weld & need to be a very good welder at that...
Prior to that, soak them with PB blaster for weeks...

 

id say you are right. Someone said on a thread that you can use a diamond bit in a dremel and get the extractor out by grinding it away. If I can just get one of them out I’d be satisfied with 2 skid plate bolts holding it on.

 

Kinda surprised to see this happen. Usually the weld nuts inside the frame break free first and the bolt just spins and doesn't come out...

Go to a shop and have them liquify everything in the hole with an oxyacetylene torch. Then drill the hole to larger size and put in a rivnut.

 

I was picturing oil pan bolts, corroded off bolt heads, with the oil pan removed, a little stub left to grab.