PCS Error after Mods

Maybe I am half the time you think I am..
¯\_(ツ)_/¯

 

I’m going to measure my stock setup to see if it complies. Won’t be til tomorrow.

EDIT: The BSM modules are 90 degrees too, to the ground.

 

Let us know what you find

 

Have you tried jacking up the rear end to see how far off you are? If you did that, it could tell you (with some math) how much you’d need for shims under the sensor.

 

Got back to the shop today after all. Sensor is tilted 1.15 degrees toward the road. Took the unit out to see it better and I can’t see just where you are putting washer/nuts to tilt it.

 

The Toyota dealer said I was at 3.4 feet. The stock setting is 2.8 and it can take up to 3.1 to be acceptable (according to the Toyota dealer)

 

I’m putting them under the corners of the mounting plate just under the hardware that holds it to the garnish. The placement is tilting it downward

 

I just measured my garnish and the center of it was at 38" on 33" tires and no lift, with my 35" tires that should only be an inch higher. Have you yourself measured your garnish height? Do not rely upon the dealer.

My calculated stock vehicle on 31" tires would have been 37" to the center of the garnish, that is 3.0833', not the 2.8'. Something does not add up.

38" with 33" tires is 3.167' no lift, no problem
39" with 35" tires is 3.250' no lift, no problem

Did the dealer try to do a calibration or did they just take notice of the height of your vehicle and refuse.

 

it’s hard to say, the service writer was less than eager to introduce me to the mechanic.

I think that’s the measured height during calibration. Meaning that’s the center point maybe five feet in front of the truck when the asda reflectors are in place

 

When I read over the calibration procedure of the set up dimensions of the reflector(s) it’s a lot more specific than partial feet, it was down to the millimeter. Or perhaps I am remembering the BSM calibration. If I can find the procedure I will post it.

 

Here's a pic of the bracket I am using. I had a shop calibrate the TSS and they were able to bend the bracket to get it all lined up. However my situation probably won't apply to most since I'm running a Rigid grill that didn't come with the cutout for the sensor.

 

What is the material of your perforated grill? What I’m asking is it steel, which I would think would interfere with the radar.

 

Yes it is steel I believe, but didn't interfere with the sensor at all. I ran it for a year like that, and the only messages I would get is when it was dirty. I'd have to clean it off and all would be good again.

In fairness I would occasionally get the same message when it was bone stock, usually from trailing somebody on a dusty trail.

 

Or could it be aluminum, a magnet would tell so. I would expect either metal to attenuate the radar waves. I believe you are saying you no longer have it working, but do you still have it in place? If so could I ask for a picture from about three feet in front of the vehicle at a slightly up angle. I’m expecting to see an opening through your mostly open grill grate.

 

I really don't think OP's issue here is related to sensor height or angle...
The sensor on mine is almost 45" high (44.75 to the middle to be exact)... I've had zero errors from the system (still gives me the "BRAKE!" warnings if I get too aggressive driving, adaptive cruise also works no problem). Something else has to be going on with it.

Mine is 4.5" lift, 34" tires, stock Sport/OR grill (I've made no attempts to change the sensor angle either, 100% stock).

Someone mentioned LED lights earlier, I guess i could see that if they are putting out a bunch of radio frequency interference (RFI) could interfere with the radar, but not having experienced that myself, I can't say for sure.
I'd suggest try another dealer or shop.

 

You called it, definitely not steel so I'll assume aluminum as well. Duh of course they would use alu for the weight factor alone. Here's the pic from the front. There were no additional holes made to the grill to accomodate the radar. I guess they are big enough to allow the radar waves through without causing an error. It was susceptible to dust and dirt though. May have been from the tinted plexiglass. Who knows...

 

In the first picture you posted on this thread there was no camera present. Did it go in after the disabling of the radar sensor or before?

My current theory is that you had a bad calibration from the get-go and each thing added made it a bit worse- the grill, the dust on the plexiglass (I would not think the plexiglass would be a problem or the dust for that matter), the possible camera placement. Also notice you removed the light bar too.

We and you will never know for sure now ("not" was originally in place of "now" creating confusion) that the sensor is deactivated. I will hold the grill mostly responsible, yeah, I know you said you had problems in the original configuration. I am interested because I will be doing some major changes eventually too. I do not want to disable my Cruise Control.

Never did find the calibration procedure for the radar sensor.

 

The LED light issue has nothing to do with RFI, it's a lack of resistance due to lower amp draw of LEDs vs halogen. Adding the appropriate resistors is typically the solution.

 

How are the lights (their current draw) tied in with the PCS system? Resistors I thought were just to prevent it hyperflashing, no?

I actually have an LED tail conversion of my own on mine using two Sylvania 7443R LED bulbs (each side) configured so that both bulbs function together for both Brake & Turn... It never hyperflashed, so I never put resistors on it (using a single LED bulb I know would've needed the resistor though). No issues with hyperflash or the PCS

 

So I mentioned resistance (or a lack thereof) as the most common culprit, but there are also issues with corrosion around the tail light plugs and electrical shorts associated with cheap aftermarket tails.

The PCS system is affected because it relies on the brakes to function, so the truck will throw a PCS code/light if it thinks there's a problem with the brake system.

You can search this site for several examples of folks getting PCS codes shortly, but not always immediately, after installing aftermarket tails. Most of the popular brands like Form and Alpharex are just rebranded Vlands that are all made in the same factory in China.

All that to say it's just one thing to check when you get an unexpected PCS code, and a pretty easy check at that. I've had tail lights in and out a dozen times in the last 5 years. Really not a big deal especially since OP still has his OEM tails to test with.