Running power into the bed? 2009 AC V6

I'd like to run power (DC to DC) from my truck battery into the bed, to charge a solar camper setup. Looking for easy access/passenger side preferred.

1) I wasn't able to pull out the cubby over the wheel well. I don't know if drilling through the cubby would give me easy access to the frame, or leave me in the twilight zone between body panels. Anyone know?

2) Next option I guess would be to drill through the bed, in the front passenger side - best place?

Haven't done anything like this before so I'm learning on the job.
With limited tools in a limited space.

TIA!

2009 AC V6 6' bed

 

There should also be a panel or a cubby on the passenger/rear/inside of the bed where the factory 120V outlet would go on trucks with the inverter option. That, and cubby you're talking about will give you access to the frame from inside the bed body panel - you can reach in from underneath the truck, it isn't too awful to get your arm up in there between the inside of the body panel and the outside of the composite bed tub, so you can run wires inside the channel of the frame, and jump up from the frame to the inside of the panel/in via the cubby.

 

Kind of confused by your question. Are you talking about a DC to DC charger from your truck battery to the camper battery? To supplement your solar charging? In my old Gen 1 I ran 12V power from the truck battery to the truck bed down from the battery then under the frame (protected and zip tied etc.) then up between the cab and bed then drilled a small hole at the top of bed and ran the wires through that hole. Hole was thoroughly caulked of course. Hope that helps.

 

Yes, DC to DC to supplement.
Thanks!

The 2nd gen has 2 cubbies on each side, in the rear, and over the wheel wells. Specifically asking about the cubbies over the wheel wells. Thanks!

 

Typically (not always) the power centers, batteries, charge controllers etc. are located in the front of the bed right behind the cab, either driver or passenger side. Your solar wiring will probably end up there as well so it might make sense to get your DC to DC wiring to that same location for ease of wiring everything up. Pretty simple to drill a hole for the DC to DC wiring through the bed to the main wiring location. Not sure where the cubbies are located in the '09's but anything that's not very close to that front of bed/rear of cab location will mean you need to run wiring to that location.

I'm going to run DC to DC in my new camper when it arrives and will drill a hole through the top/front of the bed right where the battery and power center stuff will be located.

 

What do you plan to use to protect the wire as it comes through the bed?

 

Good question and honestly not sure. Usually figure those things out as they come up. Proper wiring gauge, which is determined by the AMPs the DC to DC will draw, will dictate the solution. Could be as simple as electrician's tape and caulking or a small piece of tubing to protect the wiring and again, caulking. Also there's that black/split protective covering (not sure what it's called) that will surround most all of the wire under the frame. That's probably what I'll use.

 

You might consider a bulkhead connector if you enter through a cubby or especially the bed wall - something like an Andersen SB type connector. The better bulkhead connectors are weatherized, and you can make an Andersen pigtail to whatever you want to plug into the truck.

 

I drilled a hole in the bedside and used something like these:

$10 Aussio (4-Pack) Universal Firewall Boot for Running Cables Safe and Convenient Automotive Rubber Firewall Grommet Kit for Vehicle Running Cables Can Accommodate 3/8" to 1" Wire Bundles Boots

https://www.amazon.com/Aussio-Universal-Convenient-Automotive-Accommodate/dp/B0DHXKQ9KT?crid=1JEIKPR9IA243&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.462EJG0bOrKqBRNjzQTmEVMHqhNGajZg3epOqM9xlGzvCMy_ydcvv2IxavRk-ALpdmhIHoUzz1nzGLlt696dexI15n-ddkwR4orgFOgVU3ee-Il-yPh2M9Jse8EiSGEtffJXHzVFITA6Tp_yJ-Skj0iObYcQh1l_QmeVborhWFhG6Io7-Rnj4Kz_KFFVoqV639Vx6SQ6YAiZlwUZWDK_9LxH-DzE4WWQzc3fUSZaY0eiBrN9yRPaIpo3xvvtLyoaM-0vM8TXy49hWfI-g5BY1MpHR_nqLHoSbv63-iULCoo.p45kEV9KzL0C7J3meklLi68Jf2nvoZuCldVi4YHmI34&dib_tag=se&keywords=automotive+electrical+rubber+boots&qid=1756145273&sprefix=automotive+electrical+rubber+boots%2Caps%2C110&sr=8-6

There is also a wide variety of rubber grommets and water tight connections.

I'm going to support that you look into DC-DC chargers, one that will handle a solar input too. I bought a Redarc, that's top of the line and $$$ too. Even if you don't want to spend that much you should look at them for comparison.

 

Wouldn't the wiring from a DC to DC charger be connected as bare wires to a controller of sorts? Love me some Anderson connectors but not sure how they would connect to a charge controller?

 

LOVE this idea - it's what I will use. Thanks for the link.

 

I have the firewall boots, just curious. Can always learn something.

My system is complete, just needs the wiring finished.

 

If theres a standardized outlet in the bed, you can make a pigtail from the outlet to whatever device youre using wants. Put an Anderson connector on a piece of wire with bare leads and wire it, or if your device wants an XT60, or an SAE, just modify the pigtail or make a new one. That way when you take your camper out of/off the bed to haul plywood or a dresser, or change solar hardware, or want to quick pop a different battery bank on like an Anker Solix, you dont have a wire permanently routed through a hole.

Edit: some people might not know about bulkhead connectors -


Andersen (and many others) make "outlets" compatible with what you normally see as a connector or terminal. This one looks like a dual SB350 but they come in many configurations.

 

I think those cubbies (smaller front ones) are in secured place using some type of adhesive, mine eventually came loose over the years to where I could pull them out (no tools needed) I put a bead of silicone on the lip and they're back in place and pretty secure, so you should be able to pull yours out w/o too much trouble. They sort of slide downward into place going in, taking them out is a reverse of that.

 

Deano, love this approach but don't quite understand. Where exactly would the Anderson connector be located? In the bed? Through a hole, but temporary? How would the wires get to the bed without a hole? I'm pretty sure this is pretty clear in your head but not being the sharpest tool in the shed I don't think I'm quite getting it.

Just saw your edit with the bulkhead connector. Where would that go? And are you suggesting there's no need to have hole into the bed?

 

There has to be a hole in the bed to mount the bulkhead/panel connector. Think of it like the 120VAC outlets in the wall in your house - you don't hardwire the vacuum cleaner through the drywall, you put in an outlet so you can plug in anything you want, and if you aren't using it, there's nothing sticking out of the wall to get in the way. In this case instead of a NEMA outlet and plug (the vacuum cleaner) you're using an Andersen SB, but you could just as easily use whatever connector system you want. I'm partial to Andersen connectors. I've had an SB350 behind my grille powering my winch and occasionally jumper cables for years in Salt Hell and it hasn't let in a single molecule of brine or water, so I am confident that it would be fine anywhere on a road vehicle and most off-road vehicles.

Having an outlet means you can wire whatever you want to it if your setup changes or you want more flexibility - like if you got a deal on some prism cells that you wanted to use for your truckbed camper setup but also had a portable battery bank or something that you wanted to keep topped off.

 

Because I feel a certain kind of way I drew a picture to show, conceptually, what these bulkhead connectors do.

My mom is going to hang it on the fridge.

 

This is interesting and would definitely be a nice clean install!

My setup has Anderson connectors, with the wiring tucked below the bed rail. I doubt I would go so far as to use these mounts, Butttt, your idea is pretty great!

 

Thank You - your mom should be very proud of you

 

I used the rear cubby next to the AC outlet to do this. The same could easily be done with the smaller cubbies.

Started with a lockable door to keep the elements out.


Used a bulkhead fitting with silicone to enter the box and sealed up everything else including a gasket on the door.


I put in a fuse box for DC connections to the various items and the topper's power connection.


it's fed by a 50A circuit breaker next to the battery and 6ga wire running to this fuse panel. I may add DC to DC charging later and all that's needed is a tap into the 6ga running to the battery and adding a bulkhead connector to plug in the charger to this panel