Sound deadening for back wall of cab recommendations?

In my 08 AC, when I removed the back wall to install a rear-wall molle panel, the tacoma's tin-can effect had increased to an annoying level, so sound deadening was a priority.

I wanted to maintain the ability for air to pass by but, in my opinion, the cab didn't need a breather that large, especially since my rear wall panel would not be reinstalled.

I had read one thread here on TW that mentioned the noodle, but was unclear in depicting how it was used. I considered building some type of box with baffles, but the molle panel just didn't provide enough real estate and would probably look janky. I took my time to create a soloution, as i knew, like most other things, it would just suddenly occur to me.

In my mind's eye, I kept picturing rubber flappers in each channel of the vents, similar to exhaust ports on the transom of a boat with an inboard motor. I found some 1/8" gasket material in my tool box that was purchased from lowes, rough cut it to fit between the wall and the front of the vent, traced the outside, then pushed down so the walls that divide the channels left an impression and used the inside impression as my cutting guide.

At first, I thought the 1/8" gasket sheet would flex enough to achieve my goal and I had cut the material to fit almost exactly into the channels, but after placing it there for a test-run, there was too much resistance for me. I also didn't know how it was going to paint it black, so I brainstormed some more.

I decided I would go ahead and cut/prep the flex tape i would be using to attach it to the wall and that's when it hit me. I trimmed about 1/8" off of each flapper, and cut flex-tape big enough for 1/2" extra on 3 sides of each flap, taped it on, cut pie wedges in the overhanging tape at both corners of each flap, then folded the straight and pie sections of tape to the back side.

If my ac isn't on recirculate, I can feel cold air being pushed out at my door handle, so the flaps dont quite allow enough air to pass, which I will remedy by chamfering one corner of each flapper until I like it. However, it blocks the road noise, allows enough air to flow to serve is intended purpose, and doesn't look like shit on a white rag.

If I had to do it over again, I'd use black 1/16" gasket material and cut each flap into 3 separate flappers, so it bends more easily.

 

Will the glue melt in hot environments? I think wool is the most reliable/durable method for deadening vehicles?

 

Wool is clever, however glue holds the world together.

 

Assuming your question was for me and is regarding the tape's adhesive, the answer is "no, not even in hell would the glue melt". In fact, I used 4" waterproof tape, mostly T-Rex (flex tape competitor), as an additional protective layer everywhere MLV/Butyl sound deadening is installed, except the inside of the outer door skin.

 

Nice, I just known someone, not sure which brand they used, but when they sound deadened the hood it melted off all over the engine in hot environment.