What Have You Done To Your 3rd Gen Today?

Yes, if you get the pads to hot they can glaze over (tribology), and or the rotor getting high and low spots in it that cause brake pulsation, change the pads and the glaze is gone, or sometimes you can even "knock" the glaze off by running them across asphalt or whatever, but the only way to get ride of the high and low spots on the rotors is to machine the high spots out/off of the rotors.. Bedding the pads in, is so you will have 100% (or as close to it as possible lol) slightly uneven pad material contact to the slight uneven rotor surface, if you don't bed them, then you will not have full contact between the two, this is even harder to do (bedding) when "pad slapping"...

 

No, that is part of the bedding process, they wear in together, the pad material will wear into the imperfections (slight high/low spots) to smooth everything out, the pad material eating into the rotor will build up and the rotor thickness will start to vary more and more, if the material builds up in the variances to much, then it will start pushing the pistons back causing the pulsation, but that is only thickness variation (high/low spots) in the rotor, the rotor from heat can also warp, get wavy if you will, and either will cause a pulsation, and either requires machining the rotors back smooth, and at that time the pads really need to be replaced as well or you will have the opposite effect of pad slapping, the rotor will be smooth, but the pads will still have the same wear patter as the pre-machined rotor, and you will not have full pad material contact with the rotor... Different rotor (metallurgy) material will wear at different rates also, like most modern day BMW's pads wear into the rotors causing faster wear (removing metal), like a softer rotor, but they don't warp (easy anyway), they will look like they have been pad slapped sometimes, but it is just from the pad material eating the metal away... I have also seen and found out the hard way that those BMW rotors (and others) can not be machined....

 

Brought it to the dealership for the second time to get the leaking rear shocks replaced under warranty. (They didn't have the parts in July...but "forgot" to tell me when they cancelled the appointment that involved me taking a day off).
Despite me asking, more than once, if they had the right parts....which they assured me they did....the mechanic discovered that I had a TRD lift and so they didn't have the right shocks.
So I am driving a Corolla for a few days while they scramble to get the right parts and have it ready for the long weekend.

Castlegar Toyota: we're not happy unless you're not happy!

BTW: last time I will darken their door....but the warranty ends on Monday, so taking it to my preferred (but further away) dealer to start over would involve another day off work this week, which ain't cheap or really an option.

 

Finally figured out what was rattling under the truck when accelerating. Rock stuck between frame and heat shield. Tried posting a video but wasn’t able to. Also got oil results back from Blackstone. Everything looked great except silicon levels. Maybe K&N isn’t that great of a filter like I’ve been reading about.

 

Rear differential fluid, transfer case fluid. Wanted to get the technique down when I know I can reach the damned thing and I have not committed to removing the IFS skid protection yet because of potential off-roading.

Some transfer case fluid left because of a small spill on the floor from that tupperware (thin coat, not large spot) and this amount left in the pump tube and tupperware (6 inch measure for scale) ... lessons learned. I think I am safe to take a short 2WD trip to the store to get an eye-dropper to transfer that remaining fluid into the transfer case ... lesson learned, again.

I waited until it was cooler at night ... PHX gets uncomfortable to crawl under a car when Old Sol is overhead.

 

If that's the Toyota Liquid Gold that remaining fluid is worth $25.

Haha

 

K&N has its purpose but for regular everyday driving it is not a good choice, I'm pretty sure Project Farm did a test that includes K&N and it was the worst for filters debris but one of the best at not clogging up (of course it is when it just lets most of the contaminants pass through!). If your dirt track racing then by all means use the K&N it will thrive in that environment.

 

Exactly why I put it back in the can until I can get something I can control the transfer better. The bulk was transferred fine using the large manual pump.

 

I just got back from a 2k mile trip, and a day later my low beams are not working. Thinking that it is impossible for both bulbs to blow at the same time, I'm a little worried there could be a more complex issue going on. A little R&D showed that fuses were fine, relays removed but not tested in opposite locations because they are so darned hard to remove and really how often does a relay go bad(?), so I decided to look at the bulbs. Bingo. 2 bulbs blown the day after my return from this trip, how nice. The other nice thing is, I got 2 German H9's waiting for installation readily available from my parts stock pile. Time to source another pair.

Handy modification advice:
Simplest way to fit an H9, plug removal
Simply removing the green plug on the OEM harness will allow the H9 to be plug and play. Trimming or adapter harnesses are not required. See post #5987 as an example.

 

Finally washed it

 

Here is a dyno test done on Engine Masters...

Performance wise, not worth it...

I had a 06 Corolla and a 09 Matrix blow both at the same time, also had plenty of older Honda that needed both replaced at the same time or the other would blow very soon...
Remember they have the exact same wear and tear on them...

 

Hello everyone,
Can you all tell me what this area in My Tacoma is for?
can i put something here ?

 

Can anyone tell me what is the proper part # for the front skid plate for the TRD Offroad skid plate?
is it by any chance

$459 PTR60-35190

PTR60-35190?
There is a dealer in Alabama doing a labor day sale for $ 264.00 and ships to Massachusetts for free.

 

I believe that's where the ABS booster sits in the non OffRoad models.

 

That is what fits my 2022 TRD Off-Road. Good price, free-shipping ... cool. Before you put that on get a Fumoto oil drain valve ... oil running fast out of the plug can splash on the skid plate but Fumoto lets you "barely crack" the lever and drain oil under control until you open the lever fully. Short nipple, long nipple ... does not really matter: https://www.fumotousa.com/

Some would ask if you need it instead of just buying for the price, but if you are not hesitating based on "need" go for it.

 

I did the same. I wound up using a turkey baster to get the last bit in

 

I do not baste turkeys usually ... flamethrowers work better. There is a Safeway about 1/2 mile from me so I can get one there.

 

Got an email this morning from my selling Toyota dealership. Reminder that today is the 5 year anniversary of my Tacoma purchase. 5 year and ~15250 miles of enjoyment.

 

Have you seen any solutons for Access cabs? I’ve yet to find one.

 

That's right.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/trd-skid-plate.804920/

Make sure all the hardware is included when you get it. If you prefer a different color letter set,
https://www.tufskinz.com/collections/tacoma-2016/products/tac016-trd-skid-plate-toyota-tacoma