Question about replacing top hats/strut mounts

So I'm going to tackle the front struts this weekend on my 2017 SR5 V6 2WD. Installing Bilstein 4600's, reusing the factory springs, and also replacing the top hat/strut mounts. For the top hats, I picked up some KYB SM5640's here:

$29 KYB SM5640 - Mount Kit

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C7S0KA8?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

My plan is to not use a spring compressor and instead, just jack up the lower control arm and guide the strut into place. On the Youtube videos I've watched, most people are using the old strut mounts. The old strut mounts are sort of "worn in" and have a groove that you can rotate the spring into. These new top hats are totally flat - there's no indention to use. Is that going to be a problem for my install if I'm using the floor jack method? Hopefully I'm just overthinking it.

Here's a picture of the indention I am referring to: https://imgur.com/ZY1ZKP6

 

That's just the rubber separator between the coil and top hat. Pretty sure the new top hats will have a new one of those included. It will form/mold to however you have the coil oriented.

 

There are YT videos of people doing dumber stuff...be sure to record yourself doing it in case anything goes wrong.

I've seen first hand what these springs can do when not handled properly and safely...just about killed someone. Personally, my life is worth more than the $35 firestone charges to swap over springs.

 

I use those top hats for installs all the time. A lot of times shocks will come with new bushings for the very top of the top hat, like Bilstein 5100's or 6112's, use those ones instead of the kyb ones, they tend to resist dry rotting a little better.


You can use the vehicle weight method, but there has been a time that I tried that and bc the spring was a very long one, that I had trouble getting things to line up well. I think it was a 5100 shock with an 885, 886 or 887 spring. I normally use a spring compressor set like below instead and they work really well. Just take your time with it and compress it evenly, and keep your finders out of the coils.

If you want a spring compressor with rubber boots to protect the springs from scratches then SPC makes a nice set, which is what I use for most installs. But they are the exact same set as below with rubber boots.

$53 ReluxGo Coil Spring Compressor Tool Automotive 2 pcs Heavy Duty Macpherson Strut Spring Compressor Set with Safety Bracket for Car Truck ATV UTV, 2200 LB Capacity, Coil Spring Compression Tool

https://www.amazon.com/ReluxGo-Compressor-Automotive-Macpherson-Compression/dp/B0BK38K3ND?crid=2JJTLJ8XGTZ5M&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9._nMLq8eFdHy90Lph_dcZKSZd6rlL-ftI8TiZmCDOvdN21tBHViAJEVUFxdzm2TqW-wQzm16l1nKzyWiwnqrAWB7482aU2RiDnNvE6EBXFliCPdCfbAH12PDNZf9qSrecufZSXmcgs3x9dB7bIOOsKfa7deiIRVY4CKXfO_QY8YRcup835L9NX3DQxTSocbQ6xefSHZRk7KHDMp3VNOBS1KikUOtJTyuaAxe1w5PBIBE3Fou-MmHSnePFRejlXo9EHcQ6lM0b_Lc0pHTe8slCDy5lzDaHhYnuzCUqe_KMJgg.Y-OLps6Qvztwai0a_vLsppGr5-U1HZzSuYBm8D_YrrU&dib_tag=se&keywords=spring+compressor+tool&qid=1757019498&sprefix=spring+compress%2Caps%2C237&sr=8-2-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&th=1

 

Thanks for the tip. When you use the spring compressor method, can you still "twist" the shock after the spring and top hat are attached? Would need to do that to get the bottom hole of the shock to line up with the bolt that attaches it to the lower control arm.

 

Sometimes it can be slightly off, What I do is place the shock in the bucket, put two of the nuts on loosely, and then I take a larger screwdriver into the bushing at the bottom of the shock and give it a light twist to line everything up. I have never had any issue with doing it this way.

 

To clarify with the vehicle weight spring swap option, if it was a tall spring, or maybe even a heavy spring, what would happen is that you would lift from the lower control arm, and before the spring could compress enough to allow enough room for the threads to go through the top hat and bushing, there wasn't enough threads showing to catch the nut. Instead the jack under the lower control arm would lift the vehicle off the stands placed on the frame. Now if you are using the stock OEM springs then you will likely be fine. 6112 springs would also likely be ok, but don't quote me on that.

 

Yeah I'm using the stock OEM springs on my Sr5, Bilstein 4600's shocks, and the KYB top hat. I'll post a picture of everything that came with the KYB top hat later - still feels like I may be missing some kind of rubber ring like the picture I posted above. The bottom of the KYB top hat is just flat rubber. There's no "groove" or indention for the spring to kind of spin into. Maybe it just creates an indention itself over time idk. Thanks for your replies brotha.

 

There is a rubber isolator that is attached to the bottom of the top hat for the coil. The spring doesn't screw into it, there is a small lip of the isolator that sits inside the spring.

There is also a rubber bushing inside the top hat for the shaft of the shock to pass through.

Just make sure that the washer goes on the shaft of the shock 1st,
then the tophat,
then the rubber bushing on top of the top hat, then washer again and nut. Exactly like OEM.

The bigger washer sits on the very top, and you tighten down the nut until the bushing is the same circumferences as the washer on top.

Reach out to me directly if you have any questions.