want a nice ride for potholes - i also need a terminology lesson

Try lowering the air pressure in the tires. Since most of your driving is low speed, you would probably be fine around 25psi and that should take the harshness out of the potholes. Just air the tires back up before any highway trips.

I just installed a set of 265 75 16 duratrac load range C tires on my stock tacoma and it improved the ride and reduced the harshness of the potholes. I run them at 30 psi.

 

A good way to avoid potholes in NYC is to sell your vehicle, ride a bike and utilize the train.

 

I'll get links posted when I get home from work, but you should look into all pro's products. You would get their front long travel, the most expensive option but that would work the best for you. A little less expensive would be new upper control arms (UCAs) and fully adjustable coilovers. For the rear end get a new set of leaf springs that are designed for better articulation, and some better valved shocks. After that a better set of tires and you should be good to go.

 

I really can't imagine that a megabux longtravel kit is the answer to potholes.

Stiffer springs, tougher shocks, tougher tires, softer bumpstops. Done.

 

I kinda skipped all the chitter chatter, anyone recommend a fan boat or hover craft yet??

 

most expensive option for the front- middle expensive front option-
Any Fox, King, SAW, Camburg coilover + Allpro, Total Chaos, Camburg UCA http://downsouthmotorsports.com/search.html?q=2005+tacoma&go= (multiple options on this page) King, Icon........
http://www.camburg.com/suspension-systems/toyota/tacoma/

for the rear-
most expensive- http://giantmotorsports.com/content/view/84/104/ + shocks
slightly less- http://dmzfab.com/images/DMZLEAF_copy3.jpg + shocks
much less- ---you would want standard not expedition.


So as you can see, getting a quality suspension set up which would handle the potholes like butter is going to be expensive. until then your stock system is better than an inexpensive lift which will ride too stiff.

 

ok, i guess youre going to stick to the theory that cars driven on a smooth surface do NOT last longer than a car driven on nyc streets or in a third world country.
in that case I thank you for your other info, but i gotta file that with this last post....in the pay no mind bucket.

crappy to some, but i couldnt live in the middle of no where. I like to be around people and i like a good night life full of concerts, live music, shows, bars, clubs, movies, theater, museums,a plce full of history, a place to interact with people from all over the earth, ect ect. Living in a one red light town with one bar and having everyone know everyone is not for me. when the biggest thing going on is heading to the new Burger Barn Im out. Nice place to go relax, but i couldnt live there....mayeb if i retired.


yup. im not saying its more than anywhere else...just more than on nice roads.
think of it like this.
there is a certain nylon bushing that is now being installed. in the early part of the last century those bushings were made from steel. the nylon ones are only made to last 50% as long as the steel ones, but the steel cost 4 times as much. since consumers want cheap shit, they get nylon bushings.
I want to make sure that anything that is designed to wear doesnt wear premature because of rugged use. Im not rock crawling and im not looking for articulated suspension. Im not looking for a luxury ride.

If I could put new shocks (im at 60k miles anyway and near due for it), and instead of getting OEM shocks I might get aftermarkets shocks.....and get a better ride, for a longer amount of time, why wouldnt I do it? I knwo some of you think the factory items are fine. I dont want fine. But I dont want the best. I want better than fine and not the best. the middle of the road.
Same goes for tires, Im getting near replacement time.....why buy oem, when buying a set that handles bumps better will be better for where i live? Does it mean my oem wont work? no.

a good way to get a look t a steak is to stick your head up a butchers ass.

But last time i checked, you cant put a ladder on a bike and I cant carry a ladder, tools, material, ect ect on a train. would you like to be my lackey and handle that for me? have any thoughts on the truck or are you just into bicycles and public transit?

thanks, im gonna do some research. i had no clue where to begin. i appreciate the help.

glad to see someone is actually here to help.

 

I couldn't live in a town like that either haha. I used to live in a town where there was literally 3 stop lights. I'm not a big city fan but I don't live in the sticks. I'm not really as much of an artsy, cultured person I guess.

I made my suggestion already on what I feel would work best while not being ridiculously expensive and over kill. Honestly run the stock size tire, bigger tires will cushion more but will tend to follow ruts and holes more than the factory size would. If anything step up the load rating but I'd keep the proper pressure in, maybe 5 PSI drop.

Bilstein 5100 shocks, by far the best bolt in OEM replacement shock, short of going to coil-overs. Keep on top of the balljoint maintenance and tie rods, doesn't mean always replacing but just keep them greased. You could also upgrade to poly control arm bushings if they are available for your truck.

 

i like the help but i have a few questions. I have zero off-road exp and no knowledge of anythign related to 4x4 suspension.

i was reading the web site you listed first and one of the things it says is you get 12" of travel. They show a picture of the truck perched on a boulder the size of a basketball. While thats cool, is there a way to get the benefits of the suspension geometry with less travel? And thus less cost? is there such a thing?

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4lNtHwyiBEc

 

^^this

 

Check out the recommendations I gave you earlier for increased strength/durability without the cost of longtravel.

Not sure why you're persistently ignoring this option while responding to those who tell you to do nothing, and those who say to spend 10k+ on long travel.

Bjmoose out.

 

Put a 3" lift on it so that you can fit 285's, and drive around with the tires not fully inflated. You'll lose a couple MPG's, but the ride will be smoother. Doing this could also increase the risk of flats (pinching sidewall on the steel plates covering the cities handy work for example).

I have roads worse than that around here but luckily they aren't as busy. Faster you go, the smoother it gets

 

i havent ignored you, been reading thread after thread after thread in the suspension ares of this and other forums about some of the products you suggested.

not matte rhow much i say im gonn aignore the trolsl, they always suck me in lol....thanks for your advice.