Front Axle Leaking

Well after using the search - looks like I can handle this. I’llget someone to give me an extra hand.
Any Tips & Trick out there?
Oil suggestions’?
Thanks.
2005 4.0 4x4 Driver Side Front Axle Shaft

 

If you drop the whole thing out... make sure you disconnect the breather bracket at the top. I'd also suggest two people to drop it.


I'd suggest renting a tie rod puller rather than threading the nuts back on partly and beating them out. If you can't get them threaded back on, as in the ball joint spins, put a jack under the tie rod ends and put some pressure until you can.

I used a large tire spoon (as it's what I had on hand) to pop the cvs out but a pry bar would probably work better.

You will need a 35mm socket or a 36 would work. You'll also want a screw driver with a thin blade on it. I had to use my roommate's as all of mine seemed too thick.


75w-90 syn

Check the inner wheel seals after you pull out the cvs. Mine are torn up pretty badly after 46k miles (lots of wheeling).


This is a write up for replacing the third but should basically show you what you need to know. Gear oil is some nasty shit, it's hard to get rid of the smell and the stains. Wear shit you can throw away and place some cardboard under the truck.

 

When you take the CV axle out, use a brass drift and a hammer. A brass drift is just a soft metal chisel. You use that so you don't damage anything that you may regret later. If at first the axle doesn't pop out after hitting it fairly hard, rotate an 1/8th of a turn. There should be a retaining ring holding it in and if it hangs a certain way it will be difficult to pop the axle out. By no means use a pry bar to get the axle out, it will cause unwanted damage if you're not careful. And definitly use a puller to disconnect the upper ball joint. Pickle fork will damage the boot and hammering it will damage the stud. If you are replacing the axle bearing seal, there is no need to drop the axle out. Just pull the seal out with a screw driver or if you have a seal puller, even better. Then the new seal needs to be lubed with what ever oil you use. To get it in use a hammer with either a large socket or a block of wood to get it in evenly. Then when putting the axle back in make sure to have the retaining ring ends pointing down. This will make it easier to snap in. You can lube it as well to make install smoother. If you have to use force, make sure you use the brass drift or a block of wood to hit the end of the axle, or even if you have a brass hammer that will work as well. If you hit the axle with just bare hammer, you will cause damage to where it will need to be replaced. At this point all of the hard work is done and you will be just assembling the ball joint and brake components. Just like lug nuts, you want to snug them then set the vehicle on the ground to torque them. Same with the axle nut, snug it while up on jacks, then once it's on the ground, torque it in increments, like 60 ftlbs, then 100ftlbs, 140 ftlbs, then your final torque spec. As for the diff fluid, I would personally put some less expensive fluid in until you determine that you have fixed the problem, then put in what you want to run. Easy way to fill it is get a lil oil jug pumper that attaches to your quart bottles and it works like a soap bottle pumper with a hose to get it in the hole with out making a mess. I think the spec is

$30 75w 90 Synthetic Gear Lube - 1 Quart (Pack of 2)

75w 90. Double check with the owners manual to be sure. And as always, if you run into any probs, hit us up here at the ole TW. Goodluck

 

If your only replacing the axle/diff seal----How do you manage to remove the axle seal without pulling the axle out of the diff?

 

You have to remove the cv axle to replace the seal. The diff assembly can remain in place.

 

Thanks for the clarity I thought there was magic involved