Long Travel BS Thread

ok now can you guys please tell me why you wouldnt go sprung under at the same time you are cutting the truck up to do a bedcage?

you can weld new perches onto an axle and have it back under a truck in 2 hours sprung under. there shouldnt be a reason to down the truck twice.

 

Read this, should take awhile... http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/coilovers/Part_1/#TheAngleFactor

Buyin myself some time...

But really read it

 

Well first you have to get a Stainless Steel Food Grade table....

 

$$$

If I can do the bed cage and the bypasses at one time, and the leaf springs and hangers another, it makes it easier on the wallet.

Plus I want to cage the truck someday, and I'm most likely going to run tubes out the back of the cab and down through the bed to the frame, so if they're passing right through the area where a bed cage will be I'd like to integrate it. Goal is to eventually get the cage to run from the front bumper to the rear.

 

I cant find the link but I am determined to help dammit.

one sec

 

I don't know too much about the work involved but this ran through my mind as well. It's pretty much just shackles and bolting (do you need to weld a new mount?) the springs under, right?

Of course you need money for new springs and shackles (or fab your own, they seem like a pretty straightforward part), but you already have bypass shocks are are going to cage the bed, so................yeah.

I was reading this for a while but haven't finished it. I think I got the link from earlier in the thread
http://www.trailslesstraveled.com/article/custom-longtravel-leaf-spring-rear-suspension/

 

First we will pretend that my front driveshaft on the Jack is your rear axle at full compression, and that curtain hanger is your super gnarly trip bypass,

So you take a marker through the eye of the shock and draw an arc


Then You take the axle to full droop and do the same




Now, where the lines intersect, Is the Best place for your shock!!



And yes I did just make that setup right now for this, and yes I did just draw on my wall with a black sharpie.

 

haha now that's dedicated. thanks for the drawing, makes sense. rep sent

Now the shock obviously won't compress as it's only bolted up on the axle, so those arcs will be pretty far apart except where they intersect when you do this on the truck, right?

 

good skillz garrett

 

yes

 

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fuck. i missed so much cause i was actually working while at work.

LMAO that you guys got his build thread closed

 

for those of you that didnt make it to the expo... you missed out

http://www.dezertrangers.com/vb/features/149052.htm#post2802399

 

No problem

And no the shock should compress, you'll have to let the nitrogen out, or if they are brand new most aren't filled yet, then compress it so the eye is about the height that is was at when the axle was drooped, then make your arc.

 

im just suprised they are all as clean as they are! Fuckin badass though

 

Damn those are cool!

 

Yes, put your axle at full droop and your shock at full extension and draw an arc. Then compress your shock all the way and bump your axle up all the way and draw another arc. The two will intersect. That way you are not wasting any of the shocks travel

 

I thought this might help as i just did it last couple of days

cycled the leafs and set up the axle. then emptied shocks and tore the leafs down after they had been cycled to set up the shocks location and make sure it was all good. and as said we found the average of where shock placement should be from full droop and full bump. with how we set up the 16" triples they cycle about 20"s but deaver F67 pack separates after 18"s. so i have 2"s of despair out of the triples so they never could blow out, and there positioned forward to avoid ever having axle-rap which can be a big problem if the shocks are mounted vertical and not forward. hope this helped