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How to identify what to cut (285s + lift)

Discussion in 'Wheels & Tires' started by SCFirefighter, Dec 15, 2011.

  1. Dec 15, 2011 at 8:19 PM
    #21
    TexasTacoma37

    TexasTacoma37 Well-Known Member

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    I'm too drunk for this.
     
  2. Dec 15, 2011 at 8:20 PM
    #22
    jandrews

    jandrews Hootin' and Hollerin'

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    I'm not as think as you drunk I am.
     
  3. Dec 15, 2011 at 8:21 PM
    #23
    TexasTacoma37

    TexasTacoma37 Well-Known Member

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    I do not suggest that he don't not do it, but I don't suggest he do not do it either.
     
  4. Dec 15, 2011 at 8:22 PM
    #24
    bgsmith

    bgsmith Well-Known Member

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    ATX Mojaves with 265/75 16 Hankook Dynapro ATMs, Spidertrax 1.25" spacers (front and rear), Bilstein 5100 all around up front set at 1.75", Blacked out badges, Pioneer AVIC D3 DVD/NAV Head Unit, K&N Air Filter, Tyger Tri Fold Tonneau Cover, Rockford Fosgate Punch Speakers.
    I am perfectly happy with my setup. No major issues at all now. Also I agree with KPT, would never grind the calipers, I got Spidertrax spacers and they work great, didn't want to get a plate spacers as I didn't want to shorten the thread length on my lugs.

    In hindsight I would have gone with different wheels but like I said I am perfectly happy with my truck.
     
  5. Dec 15, 2011 at 8:27 PM
    #25
    NelsonTacoma

    NelsonTacoma This is my derpawayinator!!!!!

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    Think about it like this. When in reverse your front tires/suspension want to shift towards the front as your back tires pull you in reverse. The opposite happens when in drive your front tires/suspension want to shift towards the back as your rear tires push you forward.

    On my truck it rubs the front of the fender liner and the inside edge do the fender flare at the front edge. A Dremel tool and a heat gun helped alleviate the rubbing.
     
  6. Dec 15, 2011 at 8:27 PM
    #26
    jandrews

    jandrews Hootin' and Hollerin'

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    That's all I was saying.

    The fact that you won't grind a couple millimeters off your brake calipers but will run 1.25" wheel spacers amuses me greatly.


    This is true, but if you have enough deflection in the bushings that your A-arms are shifting significantly during accel/decel, it's time to get some new damn bushings.
     
  7. Dec 15, 2011 at 8:30 PM
    #27
    NelsonTacoma

    NelsonTacoma This is my derpawayinator!!!!!

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    I agree. I think it only shifts a little. I didn't have to trim off very much to fix the rubbing issues I was having. But, I have 1.5 spacers so the 1.25 spidertrax might cause rubbing in a different location :notsure:
     
  8. Dec 17, 2011 at 7:38 PM
    #28
    lj973gm

    lj973gm Sold it, dont miss it yet.

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    The thinnest correct spacer that retains wheel and hub centric bores are from here.

    http://www.motorsport-tech.com/special/truck/toyota_s

    Can get anywhere from 3/4" up to 2" thick.

    They can also make a basic non bolt on spacer if you want to go thinner but then it requires you to knock out your old studs and press in longer ones. Say you want to go 1/2"
     
  9. Dec 17, 2011 at 7:45 PM
    #29
    bgsmith

    bgsmith Well-Known Member

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    ATX Mojaves with 265/75 16 Hankook Dynapro ATMs, Spidertrax 1.25" spacers (front and rear), Bilstein 5100 all around up front set at 1.75", Blacked out badges, Pioneer AVIC D3 DVD/NAV Head Unit, K&N Air Filter, Tyger Tri Fold Tonneau Cover, Rockford Fosgate Punch Speakers.
    Wish I had heard of these before I got my 1.25" Spidertrax, may have gone with something a little smaller. However the fact that I hadn't heard of them in my searches says something I think.

    Also I took my wheels off today to check my spacers after off roading for the first time last weekend, nuts on the spacers haven't budged after a few thousand miles.
     

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