knock sensor position on V6 - left or right?

are the knock sensors located on the left (driver's) or right (passenger's) side of the V6 engine. the picture in Haynes shows that the two are next to one another and not one on each side of the engine.

also, once i reach this super PIA hidden spot for which i've been digging good 5 hrs now, how do i know which one is 1 and which one is 2? OBDII says i need to work on 2.

thanks

 

this shows them both clearly on one side of the V6 engine but does not say which one.

 

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/technical-chat/193112-knock-sensor-1-vs-2-a.html

Jason already answered this for you. One on each side #2 Drivers

 

I know but the picture in the manual shows them both on the same side, hence my asking again.

 

i just checked your pdf file and they are on each side of the block

 

BTW. I hope you are taking the intake off and getting to the wiring before you pull the front of the motor apart.

 

i 100% answered this question the other day in the other thread you started. They ar both in the valley, the one you are looking for is the one on the drivers side head. Again, as mike stated in this thread and i stated in the other thread, i would put money on the fact that when you get the intake manifold off you will find a rats nest (maybe) and almost certainly damage to the knock sensor harness from a rat chewing on it.

You are making this way harder than it needs to be. I'm not trying to be a dick, but i have seen it time and time again, especially this time of year, the rats are cold and hungry, for some reason the wires taste good to them.

 

i have taken the intake manifold off and disconnected a bunch of wiring but it all looks as clean as it can be, most certainly nothing resembling a "rat's nest"

 

I am not talking about the large black intake plenum, i am talking about the actual intake manifold under the plenum, if you have removed this then you can see the knock sensors and might be able to inspect the wiring, but more than likely the coolant pipe is in the way.

 

DUDE -- YOU WERE RIGHT ON BOTH ACCOUNTS:

1. the wiring was cut off (must have been a rodent cause how else being so tucked away)

2. i was able to reach it from under the exhaust pipes (barely) in between the two engine sides under the lower intake manifold. this reaching it was a major b***h, i had to squeeze my hand between the exhaust pipes and the passenger side engine to reach the drivers side connector and finagle it with that hand on one side and right-angle long needle nose pliers on the other. what a nightmare both taking it out and putting it back in it was.

anyway, let me ask you this: the green wire was cut off, the red was OK. so what i did was just cut the red off as well to take the connector out and rewire it because the cutoff was right at the connector, withing less than 1/2" so it was impossible to strip the wire and connect it as is, plus it was barely reaching out from between the cylinder heads and the exhaust pipe. i rewired the connector with new wire (i think i used 18 gauge or maybe 20, not sure, but that doesn't worry me, it was stranded just like the original) while leaving lots of slack, like maybe 6". i connected the other end of the 6" slack to the existing wire barely sticking out but i didn't use butt splices or automotive wire terminals but used regular indoor wire connecting caps like you would when wiring a power outlet, just much smaller for skinnier wire (conical shape). so my concerns are:

1. is it OK to use those wire connectors rather than but splices? i did splice the wire several turns before twisting the connectors so it was pretty darn firm.

2. is it OK to have about 6" of slack unprotected loose wire in between the ribbed plastic conduit and the actual connector (albeit insulated)? my guess was that it's OK because the space is so remote but i don't know how hot it gets and whether the conduit protects the wire from melting if it gets real hot. but, since the connector is also plastic, i thought it doesn't get too hot cause the connector would melt too.

thanks

 

Well done, to answer your questions::

1. No, i would never use those types of connectors on anything automotive. Get back in there and do it right. sorry to sound bossy)

2. The slack shouldnt be that big of a deal, my main worry is the choice of connector you used.

 

thanks. 2 questions:

1. why do you think that? do you have a rationale or is it sort of simply against the religion?

2. butt splices don't work for me, it is simply impossible to reach to crimp them. which kind of connectors do you think i should use?

 

1. too much opportunity for failure/short.

2. Take more apart and do it right. If you are already there, do it right. I would never do it half ass and i would damn near fire one of my techs for doing something like that. Just take the extra little bit and DO IT RIGHT.

If you cant do a crimp style butt connector (not really recommended either) you should be doing a nice soldering job and wrap it 3 times to make sure it's propely insulated.