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Brake vibration

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by 2001silvertaco, Dec 5, 2011.

  1. Dec 8, 2011 at 5:01 PM
    #21
    McBride513

    McBride513 Well-Known Member

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    If the vibration is in your pedal, it is most likely caused by the drums. Have them measured, and cut if possible.
     
  2. Dec 9, 2011 at 5:35 AM
    #22
    Space Wrangler

    Space Wrangler Well-Known Member

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    to some degree yes. ..but the temp difference isn't enough to cause the metal to deform in one case and not in the other.


    did you even read the articles? ....or did you just ignore them because it goes against what you've always thought?

    consider this. it was taken from another conversation...

    if the metal is actually warped. ...how did the person i've quoted get his vibrations to go away with just elbow grease and steel wool?
     
  3. Dec 9, 2011 at 9:12 AM
    #23
    fireturk41

    fireturk41 I like to break shit!

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    because claims are just that, claims. there are millions of techs that have measured and seen warped rotors, with that gentleman it could either be a stroke of luck or a false claim

    hell im a millionaire and have made love with the worlds finest women

    and in slotted/drilled rotors the temp differance is caused by the new airflow withing the dimples/hatches and it does make a huge difference
     
  4. Dec 9, 2011 at 10:09 AM
    #24
    Space Wrangler

    Space Wrangler Well-Known Member

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    so the guys at stoptech are just making claims? ..and so are the raybestos techs? are you really that incorrigible?

     
  5. Dec 9, 2011 at 10:13 AM
    #25
    fireturk41

    fireturk41 I like to break shit!

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    so most community college teachers are wrong, most every shop you visit is wrong as well as everybody including myself that has actually measured a warped rotor?

    but im done internet arguing, let op believe who he wants to, let you believe what you want to, let me believe what i want to and let anyone else that may view this thread or use it for info believe what they want to
     
  6. Dec 9, 2011 at 10:25 AM
    #26
    jflan

    jflan Well-Known Member

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    Not worth arguing this one, Space.
    A "warped" rotor or a rotor with an "uneven" surface is the #1 cause of "pulsating pedal."
    Book it.

    OP, do all the checks suggested esp. bearings and check the rotors for "runout".
    Even new rotors should be checked for runout and trued up if necessary, before they see service.
     
  7. Dec 9, 2011 at 10:34 AM
    #27
    Space Wrangler

    Space Wrangler Well-Known Member

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    you remind me of this crazy girl i used to work with. she went through a half dozen psychiatrists in a year trying to find one that didn't think she was crazy. ..apparently every one of them were wrong when they told her she had problems.


    agreed ...100%
     
  8. Dec 10, 2011 at 8:30 AM
    #28
    2001silvertaco

    2001silvertaco [OP] Member

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    Well thanks for all the input, my gf has my truck at work cause her cars in the shop so i cant rip it apart today. Cant wait to get to the bottom of this though
     
  9. Dec 17, 2011 at 7:04 PM
    #29
    McBride513

    McBride513 Well-Known Member

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  10. Dec 21, 2011 at 4:04 PM
    #30
    Clemson Tiger

    Clemson Tiger New Member

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    Hello to all! I figured I'd keep this thread going since it was about vibrations when braking. I am also experiencing vibrations when braking, but I'm not really feeling it in the pedal. It is more of a shake the rest of the truck vibration. There are a lot of things that need to be gone through on this truck. It has 168k after all. It cranks, runs and drives fine otherwise.

    I should also note, that I have had an alignment and tire balance and still seem to be getting some cupping on the outside of my passenger front and inside of driver front...Can't be completely sure if it is getting worse since replacing the rusted tie rods and ball joints or not.
     
  11. Dec 21, 2011 at 8:18 PM
    #31
    Spike8844

    Spike8844 Active Member

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    You might also check your resivoir for debris. It happens alot more often than people think. Metal rusts and when you force pressure through there, it sometimes breaks off and floats around building up in not so friendly places like the calipers. Might also be a blown caliper. One time on an up-armored humvee they had the same problem and after we replaced all the parts from the master cylinder on, it ended up being a bad master cylinder. Still don't know how, but as soon as we replaced it, the damn thing stopped on a dime.
     
  12. Dec 21, 2011 at 10:12 PM
    #32
    brelandt

    brelandt Well-Known Member

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    I have changed lots of rotors and have seen a few come out of the box warped. Of course how are you to know. I normally place it on the resurfacer and watch the reflection of the cutting disc. If the reflection moves back and forth than the rotor needs resurfacing and as I said some come out the box like this.
     
  13. Dec 22, 2011 at 6:02 AM
    #33
    Space Wrangler

    Space Wrangler Well-Known Member

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    true. ..some rotors have excessive runout straight out of the box. ..interestingly enough, the last set of toyota oem rotors i used had to be turned before i installed them.
     

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