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Worst idea ever

Discussion in 'Southern California' started by nobody4343, Feb 10, 2012.

  1. Feb 10, 2012 at 11:31 PM
    #21
    Bobber Bill

    Bobber Bill Well-Known Member

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    No need for a ball joint fork or pulling anything off the frame. Once you remove that castle nut holding your UCA to your spindle, you can whack it loose with a hammer. Hit UCA ball joint stud up and out of the spindle neck.

    Don't worry, there isn't anything else holding it in, just friction.
     
  2. Feb 10, 2012 at 11:31 PM
    #22
    Twistedfreedom

    Twistedfreedom welcome to the incredibuild

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    modded the F*ck out
    I undid the top balljoint nut but left it on the threads then hit the UCA with a dead blow hammer to separate the spindle from the UCA. leave the nut on so the UCA and LCA don't for flying in opposite directions. leaving the nut on will also save the threads if you hit the joint with the hammer

    also take the sway bar off it's a lot easier to work with
     
  3. Feb 10, 2012 at 11:33 PM
    #23
    Bobber Bill

    Bobber Bill Well-Known Member

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    That's ok, as long as the rear wheels are still on and resting on the ground with the e-brake on. You may have to use some pieces of wood or something to gain enough lift if your jack's extended height isn't high enough
     
  4. Feb 10, 2012 at 11:34 PM
    #24
    nobody4343

    nobody4343 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    hid headlights, black spyder jdm headlight housings, black jdm led spyder taillights, full led bulb swap, hid foglights, 3 inch pro comp lift, black out emblems, two 4 inch hid lights mounted behind the satoshi, wade vent visors, black westin nerf bars, black stubby antenna, k and n cold air intake, flowmaster delta 50 dual exhaust custom black tips, color matched satoshi grill with custom emblem
    I took the sway bar off already I'm wondering if I take out the upper ball joint try to reconnect the lca the jack up to get the upper back in
     
  5. Feb 10, 2012 at 11:35 PM
    #25
    Twistedfreedom

    Twistedfreedom welcome to the incredibuild

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    modded the F*ck out
    if he can't get them back together now, lifting it higher isn't going to do anything.
     
  6. Feb 10, 2012 at 11:36 PM
    #26
    Bobber Bill

    Bobber Bill Well-Known Member

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    pm'd you my number if you have more questions, I'm going to sleep soon. Good luck
     
  7. Feb 10, 2012 at 11:37 PM
    #27
    nobody4343

    nobody4343 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I got two 2x4 on the jck and the jack is fully expanded I need a second set of hands or maybe a good nights rest the truck has been fighting me all day today
     
  8. Feb 11, 2012 at 7:43 AM
    #28
    jandrews

    jandrews Hootin' and Hollerin'

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    You can dick up the threads of the stud doing this.

    The preferred method is to wack the spindle at the designated location with a hammer until the stud pops free.

    Look at this picture of the spindle. On the right hand spindle, see the top mount where the balljoint is installed? Look on the right hand side of it. See the flat spot? That's there specifically to be beaned with a hammer until the ball joint pops out. No risk to threads.

    Just FYI.

    [​IMG]
     
  9. Feb 11, 2012 at 9:44 AM
    #29
    Speed Freek

    Speed Freek Tacoma Whisperer!

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    Jason
    Vista, Ca, Lake Havasu, Az.
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    98 Tacoma V8 (LS1) swap
    LS1-T56 swap, Z06 ported heads, cam, Titanium valves, Kevlar clutch. Now building a forged stroker (383) and all the ponies! Old setup was rod-knockin on heaven's door...
    That is correct, let it all hang and then whack that sombish with a BFH on the outsite perimiter of the hole where the reinforced flat spot it (that is what it is actually for) and it will pop right off, I do them ALL the time. Super easy if you know the drill, I lift those things all the time..Its just a taper fit.

    DO NOT USE A PITCH FORK FOR THIS, just hit it with the hammer..If you have issues, I do this stuff for a living, and live right down the 78 fwy from you off Civic Center drive. If you need stuff done, let me know and I can do it for pretty cheap if you need help, I work really fast and have every tool imaginable.
     
  10. Feb 11, 2012 at 11:56 AM
    #30
    nobody4343

    nobody4343 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    hid headlights, black spyder jdm headlight housings, black jdm led spyder taillights, full led bulb swap, hid foglights, 3 inch pro comp lift, black out emblems, two 4 inch hid lights mounted behind the satoshi, wade vent visors, black westin nerf bars, black stubby antenna, k and n cold air intake, flowmaster delta 50 dual exhaust custom black tips, color matched satoshi grill with custom emblem
    I got the other side tightened up this morning now I'm on the passenger side just got to figure a way to put the Strut lower bolt in my room mate came home last night and helped line up the drive side one
     

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