Fuel filter replacement

Toyota may not be using the traditional type of fuel filter in the tanks. I had 173,554 miles on my 2005 & never had a fuel issue.

 

my experience as a hillbilly moonshine mechanic who runs high mileage old trucks , I get em at 150,000 and let em go at about 250,
never had a plugged filter
changed every one on every truck I have owned to rule out a performance issue and it has never made a difference
never .
I mention it because I am going through diagnostic hell right now trying to cure a cold stall

changed the inline filter on my 98 2.7 before checking fuel pressure with a guage
fuel pressure was perfect

the most important filter is the one that is inside the fuel tank mounted to the fuel pump

to change the filter was tricky but not as impossible as it looks.

its located inside the curve of the intake manifold mounted to the block and looks like a tin christmas tree ornament

first I unbuttoned the skirt in the drivers side wheel well . Then I reached in blindly through the wheel well with a common open end wrench and used the box end to loosen the Banjo bolt on the outlet side of the filter.
Next through the engine compartment I used a swivel head ratchet and socket to loosen the inlet side. Removed the bolt and copper washers, cover the line with a plastic bag and set it aside .
with these loose I proceeded to loosen the filter from the mounting position to get access to the rear banjo bolts. I was able to reach in the manifold a 1/4" drive ratchet and socket, loosen the mount pinch bolt and pried it open with a screwdriver to free the filter can .
Now with the filter can loose it is possible to reach in and blindly unscrew the rear banjo bolt using surgical skill not to drop the banjo bolt onto the crack of the starter motor. even if you drop the copper washers no biggie the fuel filter kit has new copper washers .
once the rear banjo is off its out and installation is reverse of dissasembly
started with BLINDLY reaching in with one hand, stacking the copper washer on the bolt, threading it into the fuel line banjo fitting, put on the next copper washer and poke into the filter, etc, etc

 

I have the same thing, but I do not know what type of filter to put on there.

 

^^
This

 

Interesting reference on the fuel filters...I replaced the one on my 94 pickup due to hot stall condition I thought was fuel...it turned out to be an internally rusted coil...the coil mount rusted and got moisture into the potted coil, causing the hot stall. It took me over a year to find the problem...

Howard

 

How can I remove the guides under the cab? See the picture...

I tried compressing the clips latching onto the bolt threads but that didn't work... I must be doing something wrong.

 

Saw this thread and figured I would contribute a little bit myself.

I have to put out my opinion (which is just like yours, an opinion) That your theory on why the manufacturers do the things they do is so they can sell more parts, is more a conspiracy theory, and not based on fact. The engineers are there to follow EPA and government standards, while trying to make a vehicle that will last, and cost the manufacturer less money to produce. Simple economics of a business. They are not out to "plan" a part to fail in a certain amount of time. That is my opinion, and it is based on over 20 years of working in the industry, as well as for different manufacturers.

As for why almost ALL manufacturers (not just Dodge, Ford, Toyota, GM) have gone to the internal fuel filter, it is for several reasons, one of them being longevity. Your fuel filter should not need to be serviced if it is the internal design. This means it helps the owner in MOST driving conditions and situations to save money. No fuel filter changes needed every 30k miles means a savings of nearly $600 over the lifetime of a vehicle, assuming the vehicle reaches 200k miles, which is not unheard of anymore in today's automobiles. This alone disproves the "planned obsolescence" to get more money idea.

Why put it in the tank? Today's fuels are typically much cleaner, and the federal standards for fuel stations have become more strict than ever. This means that in a TYPICAL life of a vehicle, the fuel system does not get much "trash" in it anymore. Also the fuel pumps have a much tighter tolerance and in order to retain their efficiency, need to be sure that the fuel is "pre-filtered" before the pump gets it. Trash in pump equals failed pumps in the future. Therefore the need to have a better pre-filter.

While I always say you should never allow your fuel level to get below a quarter tank for purely personal reasons such as if you refuel at 1/4 tank then you never risk "pushing it" and running out of gas, or not able to find a good station before it is too late. Not to mention no matter where you live, there are always storms and power outages. Don't want to have a near empty tank after a freak storm knocks out power to all the local gas stations. Although the semi-recent law requiring fueling stations to have backup generators does reduce the risk.
The fuel pump cools itself by flowing fuel through the motor housing. This alone is sufficient enough to keep it running cool. The pump does gain some cooling from being immersed in the fuel, but it is not required. Manufacturer's tolerances take all of this into account.

As a side note, I simply state that all the information I give is based on my years of experience in the industry itself. My opinions are not based on conjecture or any "theory" that I hear from any sources. They are based on what I personally have observed in my career.

 

I have a 2000 Taco with 2.7l engine. The fuel filter is located on the driver side of the engine block under the intake manifold, the easiest way to replace it is remove the driver side front tire and reach in thru the fender well. By the way I replaced mine at 323,000 miles after having what I thought was a fuel problem causing a skip. Turned out the filter was fine it was an electrical problem. Got the filter at the local parts store for $19.95

 

If you remove the fuel cap it will relieve the pressure in the system. Less gas will squirt out of the filter lines.

 

@ edubb and dalesrn,
I know this is an old thread,.....but what you guys are looking at is NOT an inline fuel filter. Whatever it is I have the same thing on my 2011, I called my local dealer and they told me what it was, forgot now what they said.
All 2nd gen trucks have the in tank filter only, unless you have the URD pump/filter upgrade kit installed.

 

I have a 2008 TRD Sport, with 50k miles, and I had to replace twice the in-tank Unit pump/filter. After read the posts on this forum, I can note that none owner of Tacoma meet with this issue...
Anyone have similar situation, or anyone can give me some advice ???

 

Fuel pumps do fail......had one fail on the 2007 FJ cruiser we have....at around 40K miles...yea,I know"no way"....yes way!......Toyota tech was astonished also!.

 

I replaced the original fuel filter at 240k on my '99. The stumble it had at idle cleared up immediately. I always use good quality gas, but after 10 years it was apparently close to done.

 

It should be mentioned that if you ever have to replace a fuel pump to also CHECK YOUR TANK. On my previous truck, the fuel pump failed so I had to go through the process of dropping and replacing it. A week later, I noticed a fuel leak coming from the tank so I had to drop it again and found a rusted out hole near the fuel spout. It would have saved me alot of hassle if I had simply inspected everything when I had it apart.

 

False. The pressure in the tank is unrelated to the pressure exerted BEYOND the fuel pump as the gas is pressurized to your engine.

 

I put 10K miles on my 2007 Tacoma here in West Africa. Gas is poor quality. I'm getting a bad air/fuel mix warning and the engine is missing. No Seafoam available--can't even ship it through the mail because it's flammable. I wonder if fuel filter replacement is my only option, top of troubleshoot list? Thoughts?

 

Not sure if serious. I would start by replacing the missing engine?

 

One thought, not all Americans are as unhelpful as CROM .

Another thought, try other, simpler possibilities first :
- try cleaning the MAF sensor if you can get any cleaner.
- Look for vacuum leaks (split or cracked hoses) coming from the throttle body.
- Replace, or clean, the PCV valve.

 

Thank you--I'll give that a try. Good thought.

 

In greasing my drive shafts on my 2013 Tacoma 4x4 I do not find a grease zurk on the most forward U joint of the rear propeller shaft. This is the U-joint that is the first U-Joint out of the rear of the transmission. I found all the rest of the zurks but am puzzled about none at this point on the drive shaft? There is a lot written about the location of the lubrication points but there also seems to be any number of configurations? For instance there is NO Cardan joint within my drive train either just the normal segmented drive shaft with a Carrier bearing part way through. I just don't want to miss any zurks. So, if anyone has had experience with a 2013 Toyota Tacoma Extended cab with v-6 engine and 4 wheel drive I would appreciate you comment and advise.

Oh Oh, I think I'm on the wrong thread here? I'll be back to delete.