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UCA trouble, NEED HELP ASAP!

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by Jacobw6, Oct 7, 2012.

  1. Oct 7, 2012 at 7:38 AM
    #1
    Jacobw6

    Jacobw6 [OP] Active Member

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    Lake Village, AR
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    Hellbent 3" lift. Aem bruteforce cold air. Pioneer p2300dvd screen. Aftermarket smoked cab lights. Active suspension system in rear.
    :mad::mad::mad::mad::mad: So, yesterday me and a friend of mine were taking off my Toytec 3in. spacer lift. This isnt the first time iv worked on the front of my truck, Iv put a bolt on spacer before, and this has never given me any problems. Well anyways, I went about this like I always do, remove the tire, remove the sway bar. I never disconnect it from the frame, just take off the nut and knock it out. Then i remove my bottome shock bolt, and lastly, remove the ball joint from the knuckle and lay it over, therefore freeing everything to get the shock out, put on the leveling kit, etc. Well, here is the problem.......since i dont have a spring compressor just laying around I had to take it to Midas to have the toytec lift put on. APPARENTLY, the idiots are too lazy to turn a wrench, so they impacted EVERYTHING. And I literally mean EVERYTHING. Usually when I disconnect everything, it takes a total of one, maybe two hard hits to knock the UCA loose. Yesterday, i was beating on it with a 15 pound sledge hammer. I ever used a separator fork to try and knock it out, NOTHING. As a last resort, Im thinking about taking out the carder key, and loosening the bolt some, and making a quick trip up and down the road to see if that will loosen anything. Im guessing when the guys put the nut back on the ball joint, they tigtened it so hard it may have drawn some of the larger part of the stud into the knuckle. Ive got the redass, and I'm desparate for you guys' help......SO PLEASE HELP!
     
  2. Oct 7, 2012 at 7:58 AM
    #2
    Jacobw6

    Jacobw6 [OP] Active Member

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    Hellbent 3" lift. Aem bruteforce cold air. Pioneer p2300dvd screen. Aftermarket smoked cab lights. Active suspension system in rear.
    Yes, all im trying to do is separate the Control arm from the knuckle. Im not removing the ball joints or anything.
     
  3. Oct 7, 2012 at 8:04 AM
    #3
    Jacobw6

    Jacobw6 [OP] Active Member

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    Hellbent 3" lift. Aem bruteforce cold air. Pioneer p2300dvd screen. Aftermarket smoked cab lights. Active suspension system in rear.
    not trying to remove the UCA as a whole. just trying to break it loose.
     
  4. Oct 7, 2012 at 8:05 AM
    #4
    GP3

    GP3 Well-Known Member

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  5. Oct 7, 2012 at 8:24 AM
    #5
    PupuleUlua

    PupuleUlua Well-Known Member

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    Try spraying with some type of penetrating oil. Prying or loading the LCA while hammering should do it. Good luck OP
     
  6. Oct 7, 2012 at 8:43 AM
    #6
    1stacoma

    1stacoma Well-Known Member

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    5100's front and rear, front 2.5" rear 2" AAL, 18% tint front and rear, color matched grill. SCS wheels 275/70/17 BFG AT KO's. DTRL toggle switch.
    I'm confused unless I read incorrectly you said that "you were going to remove the cotter key and loosen the nut than drive to see if that loosens anything up". Again I might have misunderstood what you said but you will never separate the UCA ball joint unless you remove the cotter key and loosen the nut.

    Either way if you are trying to separate the ball joint from the spindle remove the cotter key loosen nut beat spindle. I just put on LR UCA's and this is the method I used. Post back if I did not understand what you are trying to do.
     
  7. Oct 7, 2012 at 8:51 AM
    #7
    Jacobw6

    Jacobw6 [OP] Active Member

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    @1stacoma, Iv removed the key and nut already and hammered on the a-arm, but it will not break free from the knuckle. My suggestion was to put the nut back on but leave some space (maybe 1 or 2 threads) between the knuckle and the nut and drive down the road and maybe the balljoint would break free from the knuckle. Then i could just remove the nut and finish knocking the ball joint out of the knuckle.
     
  8. Oct 7, 2012 at 8:54 AM
    #8
    Jacobw6

    Jacobw6 [OP] Active Member

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    Hellbent 3" lift. Aem bruteforce cold air. Pioneer p2300dvd screen. Aftermarket smoked cab lights. Active suspension system in rear.
    Thanks doording, Im gonna wait until next weekend to try it again. Didnt have any luck, so i just put everything back together. Maybe my some miracle, i can get them free.
     
  9. Oct 7, 2012 at 8:58 AM
    #9
    1stacoma

    1stacoma Well-Known Member

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    I'm going to go take a pic of where you need to hit. Also putting a floor jack under the LCA might help get the upper control arm to a different angle which would change the angle of the ball joint allowing it to come out of the spindle. Hang on and I will post a picture.
     
  10. Oct 7, 2012 at 9:07 AM
    #10
    1stacoma

    1stacoma Well-Known Member

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    OK hopefully we are talking about the same thing. On the back side of where I am pointing is the upper ball joint/nut loosen the nut and hit exactly where I am pointing they should seperate. This is my front left with my wheel turned all the way to the right.

    Edit: I reread that you said you were hitting the arm. That I don't think will work, you have to hit where I am pointing also on the exact opposite side of where I am pointing. When I did it I removed the cotter key loosened the nut quite a bit then hit where I am pointing it should separate. This is the method most people use.

    Hit around the taper where the BJ shaft (no pun) enters the spindle. I want to edit what I said- it is probably best to hit the exact opposite side of where I'm pointing. It wouldn't hurt to hit where I am pointing either.

    [​IMG]
     
  11. Oct 7, 2012 at 9:38 AM
    #11
    badger

    badger Well-Known Member

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    I'm a little confused about where the OP is hammering. You never want to hammer on the stud or the nut. You want to hit the side of the spindle casting where the taper seats. Hold a heavy hammer head or a steel body dolly behind the casting, then hit the front with a medium sized hammer. It will pop right out. It causes the casting to flex and the taper is ejected. It works better than any tool I have tried.
     
  12. Oct 7, 2012 at 9:57 AM
    #12
    Jacobw6

    Jacobw6 [OP] Active Member

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    Hellbent 3" lift. Aem bruteforce cold air. Pioneer p2300dvd screen. Aftermarket smoked cab lights. Active suspension system in rear.
    I never hammer the stud or the nut. EVER. I've always hit the UCA right beside the ball joint. And 1st taco I tried using a floor jack yesterday and tried getting a better angle with the UCA but no luck. But I am for sure gonna try hitting where you pointed in your picture.
     
  13. Oct 7, 2012 at 2:56 PM
    #13
    Texoma

    Texoma IG: Triple C Chop Shop

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    You need one of these in your tool collection

    http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/we...ocraft_9021191-p?searchTerm=pitman+arm+puller

    I have used this particular tool every time I have done a lift job or had to separate the ball joints.
     
  14. Oct 7, 2012 at 3:55 PM
    #14
    area 52

    area 52 Well-Known Member

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    I just installed LR UCAs and that is the exact tool I used, although I used a pickle fork to bust the OEM UCA ball joint, since it went in the trash.

    It cost about $15.

    This thread shows exactly how it is used:
    http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/su...talls-full-ome-kit-rear-brake-lines-pics.html
     
  15. Oct 7, 2012 at 4:02 PM
    #15
    seric007

    seric007 Well-Known Member

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  16. Oct 7, 2012 at 4:19 PM
    #16
    Jacobw6

    Jacobw6 [OP] Active Member

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    Hellbent 3" lift. Aem bruteforce cold air. Pioneer p2300dvd screen. Aftermarket smoked cab lights. Active suspension system in rear.
    Thanks for all your help guys! Now I have multiple options, hopefully I can get it loose
     
  17. Oct 7, 2012 at 7:20 PM
    #17
    seric007

    seric007 Well-Known Member

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    its truly very easy.... tighten, tap, tap *pop* ;)
     

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