engine light flashing and loss of power.

I noticed about a month ago that I was having to downshift more on hills and the engine was shaking and shuddering that's when I was downshifting. The engine light came on finally and I took to AutoZone they said it showed the tps so I cleaned the plug and light went off. Recently when it did it again the light was flashing for a minute then went off after I downshift the engine cleared up and ran fine. Next day the engine light stayed on I got another diagnostic test done this time it said emissions, he told me probably a vacuum leak. I sprayed carb cleaner on every hose a connection but no engine rev. I did change tps after the first test but did not help also took the whole intake tube from breather to throttle body off and sprayed and cleaned everything with maf cleaner including maf. The engine runs perfect and has plenty of power through all gears,but at highway speed( 2100rpm @ 60-65mph) when I hit an incline or hill its shuddering and struggling for power.

 

You have a misfire, check your spark plugs and wires first.

 

Sounds like you need a tuneup

 

That's kind of where I was going to next....hopefully that's all. I will check that out and let you know....thanks.

 

Start out with the easiest most accessible chit, plugs, maf cleaning.. etc etc. you always need to make sure there is a sufficient amount of spark and fuel present or else it's going to run like dog crap without a doubt.

 

I'd find someone else to help read and interpret the codes.
"Emissions?"
That's what the CEL indicates. ALL of the CEL codes are related to the emissions system.

California actually made it illegal for auto parts store employees to read and recommend sales based on pulled codes... for this very reason.
A code that indicates a problem with an O2 sensor might indicate that you have a bad O2 sensor... or it might indicate that the O2 sensor is doing exactly what it should be doing and there's another problem in the engine causing the code.

 

Agreed ^ there is a process one must follow when performing a diagnostic of CEL codes.

 

Yeah,I've heard those stories of replacing everything but the problem....that's why when I got it tested again and I went to a more reliable source and that's when he said that it could be as simple as a vacuum leak, but I'm going to replace the plugs,wires,distributor cap and rotor button and cross my fingers......

 

Why don't you check them before you replace them. The cap and rotor at least. The cap will internally show spider webbing if it is worn and the rotor may show it's burnt. The wires, well if they are old you might as well just do it and the plugs is kind of the same story.

 

Thanks guys...let you know when I change them. I've had this truck 9 1/2 yrs and put 100,000 mi. Out of 187,000mi. And only changed the plugs,wires,distributor and rotor button once.....I'd say they're do again.

 

Your description makes me think fuel pressure (filter, pump?) or plug wires. I've had clogged fuel filters and failing pumps cause this with no codes present. I've also had plug wires do the same thing. If you looked close enough at the wires, you could see the discoloration on the insulation.

 

umm yeahhh I'd do them just because it's time. That is a long time to go without any tuning up.

 

I finally changed my plugs and wires and yes it took care of the problem.....Halleluha!!! I've got a new motto....K.I.S.S. (Keep It Simple Stupid.). Thanks everyone for the help....especially 12TRDTacoma