Wiring diagram check

I'm getting into ON-OFF-ON switches and I came up with a wiring diagram but want to check with people who have done them before to make sure I'm doing this the best way possible. I attached my wiring diagram, any advice or suggestions would be helpful!

What I'm trying to do is wire an ON-OFF-ON switch to control a set of aux. lights. For the first 'ON' position, I want the lights to use the high beam wire to trigger the relay meaning the lights can only come on when the switch is in that position and the high beams are on.

For the second 'ON' position, I want to be able to turn the lights on whenever the ignition is on.

 

I'm using the high beam power wire for the tap. Right now they're wired to a factory fog light switch using this method. The high beam power wire tap goes through the switch and to the relay so my lights can only come on when the switch and my high beams are on.

I'll be using an OTRATTW switch and it's a DPDT. Part no. VJD1D66B-00000-000

I see what you're getting it there. I guess the DPDT was overkill for what I'm trying to do since I'll have an extra pole to deal with. I'll see if they included a wiring diagram of the switch when I get home to see if I can tie the poles together to make it work like you're showing there. I don't think backfeeding the other pole when that side of the switch is cold should hurt anything but I need to check and be sure.

 

Thanks man, you saved me a few relays and a lot of wires poking through the firewall!

I currently have 2 switches, each controlling a pair of lights. Both are wired up, one switch has the high beam function one can be turned on whenever the ignition is on. This will allow me to combine the functions and get the most out of my lighting setup. Backroad deer be damned!

 

I'll be sure to get some pics up once it's all done. I hope to tackle it next weekend when I install my heated mirrors. I'm still up in the air with the illumination and have some decisions to make. I think I want the main light to be on when my lights come on, meaning I'll tap that circuit from my OEM switch and the bottom light to only come on when I'm running the lights off the ignition pole, just as a reminder that they aren't going to shut off when I cycle the high beams.

I'm violating lots of rules next weekend when it comes to wiring. I'm going to be messing with multiple circuits at once, changing a bunch of things, adding circuits, etc so when I turn it on and something doesn't work, troubleshooting should be a great time

 

Oooh... good catch. Looks I'll be wiring them that way then

Thanks, I'll put up pictures when it's done. It should look nice when it's all installed. I'll have the factory fog switch, an OEM highlander heated mirror switch then the 2 OTRATTW switches in the next row down (I don't have a TRD truck so I have plenty of switch blank locations to mess with ).

Thanks again for your help!

 

I'm all set with the way I want the lights to work. I'm not sure if I have a newer version of the switch or what but my wiring diagram says "This is a dual lighted switch with pin #7 being a common ground for the lights. Tabs 4,5and 6 are not internally connected to the lights"

7 - Common Neg for Both Lights
1 - Outgoing - Pos for Lower Light
2 - Incoming (+)
3 - Outgoing - Pos for Upper Light
4 - Outgoing
5 - Incoming
6 - Outgoing

What the hell is an outgoing positive for the lights?!?! If pin 7 is a common ground for the lights, then 1 and 3 have to be incoming power for the lights, right? Might have to get after this with a voltmeter...

 

What model switches did you buy?

 

OTRATTW Switch No. VJD1D66B - DPDT Dual Lighted Switch

 

Looking at the diagram if you connect something to 1 it will come on when the lower light is on so when the switch is pressed down. If you connect something to 3 it will come on when the upper light is on so when the switch is pressed up.

For your purpose I would ignore these and use 4 and 6

 

Basically when the switch is pushed
Up: 6 and 3 are on
Down: 4 and 1 are on

 

• DPDT ON/OFF/ON switch.
• Two incandescent lights.
• Lights are wired to be ON depending on the position of the switch. If pressed down for lower "ON" lower light will also be ON.
• Upper light is ON when upper part of the rocker is pressed down, or ON.
• No rear barrier between the terminals. Recommend using insulated terminals or VCH-01 connector housing
• Rated 20A @12V.

 

The switch lighting is confusing me because they state that 4, 5and 6 are not connected internally to the lights. But the lights are still dependent on the switch position? I was hoping I could wire the lights independent of the switch position but if I'm understanding correctly, that's not possible.

7 - Common Neg for Both Lights
1 - Outgoing - Pos for Lower Light
2 - Incoming (+)
3 - Outgoing - Pos for Upper Light
4 - Outgoing
5 - Incoming
6 - Outgoing

Sounds like I should just run a constant power to the switch lighting tabs 1 and 3 since they will only be on when the switch is in that position, right?

 

Did you see my other posts?

Basically the lights are wired in series internally to 1 and 3 so they are outgoing still for tab 2.

 

I did, for some reason it wasn't clicking with me

I found this online and I understand now. Pin 2 powers the lights but the lights are still controlled by the switch position. Ignore pins 1 and 3, I don't need them, 4 and 6 are the ones I should be concerned with as far as power. 5 is fused power coming in that will run the accessory.

I'm going to run a jumper from 5 to 2, tape off pins 1 and 3 and dumb the switch down a bit.

Sorry for being thick skulled, the description just wasn't making sense in my head. Thanks for the help guys!

 

Yep all that sounds about right

 

Yeah... I know you did. But then I got home, dug out the switches, read the 'not connected internally' part and proceeded to have a MASSIVE brain fart.

 

It's all becoming clear now. I re-read your posts again and I get it now... I blame sleep deprivation

 

Thank you!

 

I always forget about this method

 

Oooh... I think we have a winner! If I have incadescent bulbs, that's the way I'll go. If they're LED, I'm not sure the dimmer would work. I like the idea though and I've already got a tap to the existing dimmer controls from another wiring project that I could make use of.