Just got an 06 DC with 200k---some issues

Well, not 200k, but more like 197k.

Cosmetically it is pretty nice for the miles, zero accidents, fairly clean.

When I got it, it had a ton of lights on in the dash.

-maintenance required--changed the oil and I reset that, easy.

-ABS and BRAKE- I reset like 8 codes and the Brake one didn't come back, but the ABS did, pulled the codes again and only got one code, pulled that sensor and say it snapped in half. AdvanceAuto wanted close to $600. RockAuto wanted $108. AdvanceAuto matched it and shipped free...hopefully that issue will fix everything. Also, one of the codes was related to low battery voltage. I heard that could trigger the BRAKE and ABS lgiht too. It didn't come back so no worries thus far.

-CEL- both P0420 and P0430-- need both cats. I guess this is a major failure on these trucks...looking into getting repalcements. I heard the aftermarket ones are no good...anyone have any hookups?

-When in 4x4, the right front makes a grinding noise...not sure where to go with this one, any suggestions? hubs? bearings? (RR tire is 235 instead of a 265...maybe that caused it)

-broken windsheild, calling around for replacements.

-TPMS light is on. Riding on spare, one tire torn up. other tires are all mismatch and two are crappy. one is a smaller size. I got 4 brand new 2013 sport model 17in takeoffs locally and will be slapping those off...hoping this fixes my TPMS and my 4x4 noises...

That might be all of it, but I'll let you all know!

 

Pics? If it hasn't already been replaced be ready for so u joints i got 168k on mine. Good luck

 

How did you reset the codes for your ABS and Brake? Both of mine have been on for the longest and i think it's because i forgot to cut my off-road lights off and killed the battery.

post some pics of the ride as well.

 

Pics tonight hopefully, but it is nothing special... just a 06 DC TRD off road.

U-Joints don't sound fun, how can I check them?

I have a ODBII code scanner which read the engine codes, but not the ABS codes.
AutoZone read the codes too, but my mechanic has a fancier one and was able read/erase them for the ABS light and brake light.

 

If it's the front, the grinding noise could be a number of things from wheel bearings to the bearing in the differential or the CV joints. If you jack up that corner of the truck, can you shake the wheel at all without shaking the whole truck? If the wheel has some play, that means your wheel bearing is letting it move and needs to be replaced.

How bad of a grinding noise are you talking about, is it very subtle or loud like there is an immediate danger to the driveline? Have you checked or changed the front differential oil and made sure the seals are holding oil?

As far as u-joints, with the mileage you have, it'd be a good idea to check although you'd probably suspect something was wrong if they were bad. When under the truck, twist the drive shaft across a u-joint assembly (turn one half one way and the other half the other direction). There should be no play across the u-joints. If you hear them shift, they are worn out. You will also usually hear a clunk when you first put the vehicle in gear or when you go from reverse to forward if the u-joints are bad. The clunk is caused by the driveline taking up the slack in the u-joints.

For the brake lights you're getting, make sure the brake fluid level is toward the upper end of the reservior's fill lines. Mine was still within the lines but on the lower end and it caused some lights to come on.

 

Dang, so thats prob why my scanguage cant read the ABS/Brake light codes... i'll have to go to the dealership then..

Good luck getting your truck sorted out

 

Pics added. As you can see in the bed of the truck, I scored some 17in 2013 takeoffs!
Hopefully that fixes my TPMS and my 4x4 noise...

 

I don't think you need to go to the dealer. My mechanic has a really fancy 4k scanner so his better do the job. AutoZone had a different one, looked like maybe $300 item, buy one of these for the same as the dealer might charge you to diagnose.
My $140 reader couldn't read the brake and ABS codes.

 

You'll probably have to get the TPMS programmed to bind the receiver with those new sensors in the new wheels

 

Actually, dude kept them so I plan on keeping mine. Breaking the bead and re-balancing will cost me though...

 

^To make matters more interesting, TPMS sensor batteries don't last much more than 5 years, and the batteries are not replaceable. So you may have to buy new sensors soon anyway.

 

and none of us genius's here have figured out how to 'rebuild' them with similar batteries? Sounds like a million dollar idea to me.
If anyone wants to buy my idea, you can have it for rebuilding my TPMS and paying for shipping them to you and back, a small price to pay for a million dollar idea.

 

How much did u pay it for?

 

have someone check your alternator, as well as your battery. something in my memory for some reason correlates two seemingly unrelated lights to alternator.

 

Greekboy, I got a pretty good deal on it, well under ten K. Let's leave it at that.

lxman, so far I feel like im headed in the right direction, but will check that out if my current path leads nowhere, thanks.

 

-ABS light fixed with sensor for advanced auto. Listed at $584. Price matched to rockauto with free shipping for $108. (WTF, right?) ---oh yeah, no battery code or issues involved.
-Fresh 2013 takeoffs with TPMS mounted, no more light.
-Fresh rear shocks I had left over from my last Taco installed---smooooth ride!
-Temp/Compass repaired DYI (4th one for me)

Antenna, cabin filter, new fob, couple bulbs....on order.

Looking good thus far...few things to go.