Replacement DRL/blinker bulbs???

While washing my truck I noticed the lens on both my DRL/Blinkers had discolored spots and cracks directly in front of the bulb. I had one of the bulbs burn out about 6 months ago and then the other one a couple weeks later. I replaced them both with sylvania long life #3157 bulbs. Is this not the correct bulb? Anyone else have this happen?

 

Lots of people on here have issues with melting and fogging up of the lens in front of the bulb and the chrome reflector behind the bulb discoloring as well. My truck was one of them but I had aftermarket yellow bulbs in place. I eventually disconnected my DTRL's after a couple of months and called it good. But I know a lot of people that dont have any issues at all so its hit and miss.

 

yes, this is very common. mine are the same way. if your truck is still under warranty id go get the headlights replaced. if not id put l.e.d. bulbs in it before they crack in half.

 

X2. You can go with LED but you will need load resistors so you dont get the hyper blink.

 

Yeah mine have cloudy spot just the size of the bulb and then a horizontal crack going across the lens intersecting the cloudy spot. I just happened to notice it, I guess it isn't a big issue I was just trying to make sure no one had there truck burn down due to faulty day time running lights.

 

Havent heard of one burning down yet but you need to do something about it so it doesnt keep getting worse. Is your truck still under warranty?

 

How do you disconnect just the DRL and still have the blinker/hazard function? No I think I am out of warranty I just hit 35K and didn't buy the extended

 

There is a DTRL module under your dashboard that you have to disconnect but I believe you have to put something back in the control unit for everything to work properly. Try doing a search on here.

 

The DRL and non-DRL flashers are different.

The DRL flasher MAY work plugged directly into the fuse block, I don't know.
If it does, then you can just remove the harness that the flasher is plugged into and plug the flasher into the fuse block.

If it doesn't work, you need a flasher from a non-DRL truck.


I'm not a fan of load resistors on a DRL-equipped truck. Those lights are on any time the headlights are off, and that's a LOT of heat on the resistor.
I've heard that you can parallel a relay across the lamp and it will be enough current to allow the flasher to work.
Personally, I'd just get an electronic flasher and be done with it.


All of that said, I'm surprised you're having a problem with the 3157 lamps.
The factory lamp is a 4157, and is a higher wattage lamp than the 3157. The factory lamp should cause the problem... the 3157 is often referred to as the solution for the problem.

 

Hmmm I may have to try another brand of 3157 then. The package these replacements came in says 3157NA/ 4157NA/ 5702NA on it, I just when and found where I had tossed it in the glove box.

 

You can disable the drl's by pulling one of the wires out of the connector. I did that on my truck awhile back for the same reason. Link showing what wire to pull. http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/lighting/85326-dtrl-toggle-switch-mod-stealth-mode.html

 

Be very, very careful, particularly with different years.

We've had more than one member do the "switched" DRL mod and end up having electrical problems later.
Also, one user reported that the harness for the 2012 is different. He wanted to install DRL and the parts listed in the mod thread did not work.

 

I pulled my bulbs out today and they were indeed 4157 instead of 3157 so I changed them out. I wonder why sylvania packages the bulbs the way I listed above.

 

Hey Rossk35, did you eliminate the drone going from a 18" magnaflow to a 22" thanks... tried to PM you but wouldnt go thru....thread jumper!! thanks

 

Why not just go back and get new headlamps? I have not had any issues since they replaced mine?